BERLIN — “What I smelled was courageous, creative and brave,” said judge and perfumer Andy Tauer, addressing the crowd at Saturday’s Art and Olfaction Awards. The Swiss niche perfumer was on hand to help deliver prizes for the event’s fourth edition, its first ever away from home.The awards are a program of the Los Angeles-based nonprofit Institute for Art and Olfaction, which connects and supports independent perfumers and artists, and educates the public about the craft and magic of scent.This year’s diverse group of finalists came from Europe, the Asia-Pacific region and North America. “We aim to treat their work with respect, regardless of marketing budgets,” said Institute for Art and Olfaction founder Saskia Wilson-Brown, explaining the Awards’ policy of ethical and blind judging procedures.The winners in the artisan category, for perfumers with their own brands, were Dallas-based Claire Baxter for Sixteen92 Bruise Violet, and Pissara Umavijani for Mélodie de l’Amour from her French-based Parfums Dusita.Fathom V from Beaufort London scooped one prize in the independent category for creative director Leo Crabtree and perfumer Julie Marlowe. The other went to Berlin’s J.F. Schwarzlose for Altruist by perfumer Véronique Nyberg.The German capital is also home to the winner of the Sadakichi Award for experimental work with scent — Wolfgang Georgsdorf’s Osmodrama with Smeller 2.0, a complex system for playing scents that was decades in the making.A newly created prize, the Contribution to Scent Culture Award, went to a clearly delighted Christophe Laudamiel, who also served on the judging panel with niche notables including Luca Turin, Michael Edwards and Mandy Aftel.The prize ceremony closed two days of smell-related activity, which started Friday at an experimental scent summit curated by Wilson-Brown and Berlin-based olfactory and film artist Klara Ravat.Artists, perfumers and researchers gathered to discuss the conceptual considerations and practical challenges of working with smell, from collaborating to collecting and curating olfactory art to scent storytelling with virtual reality. The wide-ranging discussions touched on the growing fields of niche perfumery and olfactory art, and where they both intersect and part ways. “There is a bit of a split in the field,” commented curator Ashraf Osman. “There’s the scent of art, and the art of scent.”An example of the former was Dutch designer Leanne Wijnsma who presented her project Smell of Data, a Sadakichi Award finalist, which envisions adding a smell warning to data leaks. It is modeled on the way olfactory cues were developed to protect against dangerous yet odorless gas leaks. Singer Daniela Gesundheit of the band Snowblink, who also performed at the summit and awards ceremony, talked about singing in tandem with a scentscape — to a blindfolded audience. Also, fragrance innovation specialist Olivia Jezler and perfumer Andreas Wilhelm discussed moving fluidly between industry and independent projects.Friday’s summit was part of Wilson-Brown’s mission to build mutual support and a sense of community for this broad ranging group of creatives who may work at the margins of the fragrance industry, deep within it, or completely outside of it. To that end, she’s decided to further her reach, and will open an arm of the Institute for Art and Olfaction in Berlin.The presence of innovators here like Ravat, Georgsdorf, Escentric Molecule’s Geza Schön, and the Grand Dame of scent art, Sissel Tolaas, makes a strong case for the expansion. Even New York-based Christophe Laudamiel operates a satellite lab in the city.“Berlin has the same culture of freedom of innovation and ‘anything goes’ that I find in Los Angeles,” Wilson-Brown said. “So it felt like a really natural fit for our ethos at the institute and the awards.”
For its next men’s wear collection, @roberto_cavalli will show as a special guest at #PittiUomo, running from June 12-15. The brand, which has Florence in its roots, will relaunch its men’s wear collection, which will be presented separately from women’s wear for the first time since Paul Surridge was appointed creative director in May. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
“I was making the guacamole when my scout saw me,” says model @stuckinteenage on being discovered just six months ago while working at @chipotlemexicangrill. Since then Williams has signed with @dnamodels, walked in her first show at @calvinklein and landed on the cover of @vogueitalia – a high point of any model’s career. To read @lisajlockwood’s full interview with the model on her experiences thus far, head to WWD.com – link in bio. (📷: George Chinsee)
“I love the idea of dialogue, period. It’s where I’ve always gotten my inspiration from: hearing other women speak, their journeys and their paths,” said @hereisgina, who delivered the keynote speech at the @sxsw conference for @createcultivate, the online platform and conference series for women. For her two panels, Rodriguez chose female empowering, female-led and female entrepreneurs to focus on. Head to WWD.com to read more about her thoughts on Time’s Up, growing up in a family of women and why we “need a girls’ club.” #wwdeye #sxsw (📷: @jgreenery)
Leading luxury brand are shaking things up to keep up with streetwear. Case in point: the arrival of @mrkimjones as artistic director of @diorhomme. Jones, who succeeds @Kris_Van_Assche, is seen as one of the handful of designers who can actually straddle the luxury and streetwear worlds — which could lead to even more changes at established brands. What could this mean for the rest of the menswear landscape? Head to WWD.com to find out what experts predict #wwdfashion (📷: @franckmura)
“It’s like buying groceries. You’re going to buy the best mango, the best mozzarella, the best things. You have to, or others are going to take it all,” said @gabrielahearst on why she uses only the finest fabrics. Last week, Hearst received her first @cfda nomination for Womenswear Designer of the Year, and earlier this month she opened a permanent showroom in Paris. To read @jessiredale’s interview with the designer and find out why this is shaping up to be a big year for her, head to WWD.com. #wwdfashion (📷: @francoisgoize)
“It’s an interesting thing, playing a younger version of your mother. It’s an interesting concept. I adore my mom and love her in every capacity, but it was just something that had never crossed my mind,” says @anniemstarke on playing a young Joan Castleman in “The Wife.” The same role will be played by her mother Glenn Close. Read more about her growing up in the film industry as the daughter of producer John H. Starke and Close and what she has planned for the future #wwdeye (📷: @nataliamantini)
@asics is launching a new streetwear sneaker inspired by its latest ambassador, @steveaoki. The Hyper-Kenzen x Aoki, which will launch at @footlocker stores exclusively tomorrow, is a slip-on style that incorporates the brand’s proprietary Gel technology through beads integrated into the midsole for comfort and endurance. Read the full story on WWD.com.