Marni and its licensing partner, the Aramis and Designer Fragrances division of the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc., are preparing to launch the Italian fashion house’s first women’s fragrance in February. It has clearly been designed to appeal to a Marni consumer craving innovation.
“The perfume reflects Marni’s fashion, certainly,” said Consuelo Castiglioni, Marni’s creative director. “Because it’s a perfume that’s quite individual, that doesn’t evoke anything in particular. It’s for a woman who dresses for herself, who doesn’t follow trends but is sophisticated and also maybe a little eccentric.” That individuality also applies to the design of the flacon, which was inspired by an old bottle that Castiglioni discovered in a flea market 20 years ago. The shape of the bottle is a sharply different silhouette than is usually found in most fragrance flacons, more like a fashion design. “I wanted a bottle that was kind of traditional, that is, one that lasts over time, like the clothes we make, which last and you can still wear two or three years from now. It isn’t seasonal. I think this bottle reflects our concept — you want to keep it. It also has the dots, which are part of our world, and a play on proportions with the cap. These elements are also important in our fashion.”
Veronique Gabai-Pinsky, global brand president of Aramis and Designer Fragrances, BeautyBank and Idea Bank at Estée Lauder, said, “Marni is all about a very discrete confidence.” She pointed to the design of the fragrance’s outer box, which juxtaposes textured and vinyl surfaces, plus a combination of white and beige with red lettering. RELATED STORY: Marni Said Seeking Investor >>
To prepare for developing this product, Lauder conducted a consumer survey that revealed that the one thing users of designer fragrances want is innovation in the fragrance’s juice. To satisfy that desire, Castiglioni suggested a fragrance she had worked on years before as a fashion project with Givaudan perfumer Daniela Amdrier, which was unusual in that it eschewed the staples of most commercial scents — floral and fruity notes. It was a blend of spicy and woody notes, which Gabai-Pinsky praised but thought was a bit raw. Lauder added a dark, intense rose oil to inject voluptuousness. That effect was moderated with incense. “It’s very modern and bold,” Gabai-Pinsky said.
Marni’s design aesthetic dovetails with Lauder’s strategy of putting together a stable of designer fragrance brands — Donna Karan, Michael Kors, Ermenegildo Zegna, Tory Burch, Tommy Hilfiger and Coach — that “represent a higher-end proposition with an aspirational value.” She added, “We want to build scale for the long term.” Her aim is the sweet spot in the market, fragrances of 100 ml. that cost more than $100. That segment represents only 5 to 7 percent of the global business, but the category has shown the strongest growth over the last few years. The fragrance’s price points are true to this strategy. A 65-ml. eau de parfum will retail for $105 and a 120-ml. size will be priced $155. A 30-ml. size is being contemplated for later. One of the most eye-catching features of the line is the $50 purse spray, which comes with a fabric “Huggy” doll. The line is rounded out with 200-ml. body lotion, shower gel and body cream, also a deo-fragrance.
Gabai-Pinsky said her goal is to establish the brand with a new proposition of high-end design and take the time to connect with customers to establish a “very fruitful long-term relationship with every consumer.” Gabai-Pinsky declared that she is not interested in wide distribution, but rather a high level of sales with a very focused door count. The launch will involve only about 2,000 doors around the world in a universe of about 25,000, or 10 percent of the total. In the U.S., Saks Fifth Avenue will have a six-month exclusive and in other markets, retailers — department stores and perfumeries — will enjoy exclusives or very select arrangements, often consisting of flagships. The purpose is to provide more space and service than is usually given a fragrance on launch.
The battery of promotional weapons includes devices such as sampling and direct mailers, designed to reach out to consumers. The print ad, featuring model Raquel Zimmermann and photographed by Nick Knight, will appear in one magazine title, the global editions of Vogue around the world. That is another example of the intense focus of this project. Gabai-Pinsky did not break out figures, but industry sources estimate that the first year sales target for the launch is $25 million at retail, a figure that is expected to climb $50 million to $75 million within three years.
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)
@heriethpaul and @gracebol have a moment on the @victoriassecret fashion show 2017. See every look from the runway on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo) #wwdfashion #victoriassecret #VSFashionShow
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia