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One Again

P&G Prestige Products is gearing up for the launch in March of Dolce & Gabbana's The One for Men, as the new male counterpart to the design duo's...

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MILAN — P&G Prestige Products is gearing up for the launch in March of Dolce & Gabbana’s The One for Men, as the new male counterpart to the design duo’s top-selling women’s scent. The outlook for the launch is tinged with great expectations. Sources estimate that the men’s fragrance could generate $100 million in global retail sales in its fi rst year on counter.

This story first appeared in the November 30, 2007 issue of WWD.  Subscribe Today.

When Stefano Gabbana began work on Dolce & Gabbana’s new men’s fragrance The One for Men, he fast-tracked the creation process with one idea.

“I wanted to create a real man’s fragrance,” said Gabbana, who emphasized the word “uomo.”

Gabbana spoke exclusively to WWD about the new scent — the male counterpart to The One for Women, which launched in Europe last fall and rolled out worldwide earlier this year.

“I wanted it to be a classic — not a banal classic, but a classic men’s fragrance that would last for years and be the type of scent that women adore,” added Gabbana.

Though the scent won’t be launched until March 2008, Domenico Dolce and Gabbana will visit New York City next week to cut the ribbon on two newly refurbished stores, taking time out to preview The One for Men to a select group of editors on Tuesday evening at the Gramercy Park Hotel, and to fete the group with a dinner hosted by the duo on the hotel’s rooftop.

Off the back of The One for Woman’s performance, which industry sources predict will pull in over $120 million in retail sales worldwide for 2007, The One for Men scent is pegged to do $100 million retail in first-year global sales, according to estimates by those sources.

“Dolce & Gabbana The One for Women took Dolce & Gabbana fragrances to new highs in terms of global fragrance sales rankings,” declared Hartwig Langer, president of P&G Prestige Products, who spoke with WWD at P&G Prestige Products’ Geneva headquarters.

“The success of The One for Women really will have a positive effect on The One for Men and we have spectacular plans to bring it to life,” added Langer.

The plans, outlined Langer, would match The One for Women’s launch, and included a gigantic advertising campaign — its budget he declined to reveal — and in-store material and support.

The new scent is part of the brand’s master plan. A color cosmetics line is in the works, which has been reported by WWD, and plans are also under way for a secondary fragrance line under the D&G umbrella.

For P&G Prestige Products, the Dolce & Gabbana license has been an unstoppable revenue spinner — the firm confirmed that after Hugo Boss, the label was the second biggest in terms of volume in its stable of 23 licenses. The One for Men is forecast to narrow the gap between Dolce & Gabbana’s men’s and women’s scents’ sales split, with women’s generating 55 percent.

The One for Men will be distributed to 25,000 doors globally beginning in March. One U.S. retailer will exclusively carry the scent, though at press time the store’s name wasn’t available. A national rollout will follow in the fall.

Intent on formulating an innately masculine scent, Gabbana was drawn to spicy and woody notes. “I like spicy-oriental notes and we’ve never done these types of fragrances, it’s a little warmer than our other men’s scents,” said Gabbana, who created The One for Men in collaboration with the P&G fragrance team and International Flavors & Fragrances Inc.

The One for Men opens with top notes of grapefruit, coriander and basil, has heart notes of cardamom, ginger and orange blossom and features masculine-heavy bottom notes of cedarwood, ambergris and tobacco.

Modeled on the flacon for The One for Women and designed by Gabbana, the scent’s weighty tall glass bottle sports a silver-metal neck and is topped with a rectangular stopper in brushed chocolate-brown metal.

To match the allure of supermodel Gisele Bündchen, who starred in The One for Women’s ad campaign, the designers tapped actor Matthew McConaughey as the model for the scent’s advertising campaign. McConaughey will join the designers at the scent’s preview in New York next week.

“We wanted the sexiest man on the planet,” declared Gabbana.

For the fragrance’s TV commercial, the blonde actor is depicted on the run from a pack of paparazzi on the streets of Paris dressed in a slim Dolce & Gabbana suit and sunglasses. The print shot features McConaughey in a hotel room at night, hair slicked back, in a white shirt unbuttoned at the collar, with the fragrance in the foreground.

“It’s the first time we’ve put the model in one of our men’s fragrance campaigns in clothes,” exclaimed Gabbana. “But [the photograph] isn’t an obvious sexy [one], it’s more mature.” Other campaigns showed men either in a skimpy swimsuits or bare-chested.

When the campaign was shot by Jean-Baptiste Mondino in September, the actors that played photographers were joined by a bunch of real-life paparazzi, whose pictures turned up on celebrity-themed blogs days later.

An eau de toilette spray, The One for Men will be available in two sizes, $55 for 50 ml. and $70 for 100 ml., in the U.S. An ancillary line includes aftershave lotion, $45 for 100 ml.; aftershave balm, $35 for 75 ml.; shower gel, $30 for 200 ml., and deodorant stick, $22 for 75 ml.

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