LONDON — Penhaligon’s is moving up to the sixth floor of Harrods and the high-end Salon de Parfums, which launched in 2014 and is expanding to include new brands this summer.The English perfumer, which holds two royal warrants, one from Prince Charles, the other from his father Prince Philip, will also be introducing Your Penhaligon's, a semi-bespoke and bespoke fragrance offer, in the new space. Bespoke prices start at 35,000 pounds, or $45,315 at current exchange.The new space, which spans 162 square feet, will open on May 13.Harrods originally launched the Salon de Parfums with 11 shops-in-shop for brands such as Chanel, Dior, Tom Ford and By Kilian. The aim is to serve luxury fragrance lovers who want spend time — and money — learning about notes, formulas and what goes into making a high-end scent.As part of the Salon de Parfums expansion, Harrods is adding six new shops, including one for Burberry.The new Penhaligon's space is meant to be part-laboratory, part-salon and shop. There are two infinity mirrors, refrigerators to store certain essences, and coffee and Champagne on tap. There is also a vintage bottle display from the Penhaligon's archive.“We are a 147-year-old company, and a very, very English one. We really wanted to be in the Salon de Parfums and play alongside the elites,” said Lance Patterson, chief executive officer of Penhaligon’s and L’Artisan Parfumeur.With the semi-bespoke offer, perfumes are created on site. The service comes with a private appointment at Salon de Parfums where customers can choose from four base fragrances, chypre, wood, oriental and amber, and mix them with one note, rose, sandalwood, iris or oud.The fragrance is decanted into a specially made, 100 ml. Penhaligon's bottle, and customers can choose from 10 different bows. They can also name their fragrances, and the labels are printed at the shop-in-shop.[caption id="attachment_10885911" align="aligncenter" width="524"] With a starting price of 35,000 pounds, the bespoke service is another story. The finished package comes with two handmade crystal decanters, a marquetry box handmade in Italy, and a sterling silver atomizer and funnel. The company guards the formula and refills cost 2,500 pounds, or $3,235.[/caption]The semi-bespoke fragrances have been created by the perfumer Fabrice Pellegrin. Depending on the notes used, they cost 300 to 400 pounds, or $390 to $520 at current exchange.With a starting price of 35,000 pounds, the bespoke service is another story, with all of the scents to be created by master perfumer Alberto Morillas of Firmenich.After an initial consultation, Morillas tests and retests formulations, according to what the client wants, and is prepared to fly anywhere in the world to customers during the process.The finished package comes with two 200-ml. handmade crystal decanters, a marquetry box handmade in Italy, and a sterling silver atomizer and funnel. The company guards the formula, and refills cost 2,500 pounds, or $3,235.“It’s really taking Penhaligon’s to the next level,” Patterson said. “You can create any fragrance you like, it doesn’t have to be from the store.”Both services will remain exclusive to Harrods.The new space will also offer the brand's Trade Routes fragrances, with two new additions to the line, Agarbathi and Paithani. Trade Routes is inspired by the exotic ingredients and spices landing on the docks of London in the late 19th century such as clove, cinnamon and cardamom.Later this year, Harrods will also carry an exclusive fragrance, Mr. Harrod, part of Penhaligon's' Portraits collection, which is based around the narrative of a fictional — and often naughty — aristocratic Victorian family.[caption id="attachment_10885907" align="aligncenter" width="545"] Mr. Harrod, the new fragrance designed for Harrods.[/caption]The exclusive Mr. Harrod is inspired by the Twenties, and the bottle’s cap is a golden bear’s head.Two other Portraits fragrances, Countess Dorothea and Monsieur Beauregard, will also launch at Harrods in September as will two teas created by Henrietta Lovell of the Rare Tea Company and six candles inspired by the Victorian-era environs of the Portraits family.Penhaligon’s launched the Portraits group of scents last year, based around the family, circa 1870. The collection, Penhaligon's most expensive with the exception of the new bespoke and semi-bespoke offer, has limited distribution.[caption id="attachment_10885908" align="aligncenter" width="817"] The Portraits collection, Penhaligon's most expensive with the exception of the new bespoke and semi-bespoke offer, has limited distribution.[/caption]Although Puig does not break out projections, the company said the Portraits collection has exceeded expectations and is already generating 20 percent of Penhaligon's annual revenue. It was originally expected to kick in 10 percent.Puig also declined to offer projections for the Salon de Parfums space, saying it was a new retail offer and difficult to benchmark.[caption id="attachment_10885910" align="aligncenter" width="1024"] The exclusive Mr. Harrod is inspired by the Twenties, and the bottle’s cap is a golden bear’s head.[/caption]Manuel Puig, vice chairman of Puig, which purchased Penhaligon’s in 2015, said after tweaking and fixing the business, it was time to move “to the very top of the pyramid,” at Salon de Parfums.Puig said he's happy with the brand's progress: “We’ve taken over a brand with a long heritage and the turnaround is well under way.”The brand has 36 stores worldwide, and plans to have 40 by the end of the year, with two more units planned for the U.S., one in Dubai and one in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia.
For its next men’s wear collection, @roberto_cavalli will show as a special guest at #PittiUomo, running from June 12-15. The brand, which has Florence in its roots, will relaunch its men’s wear collection, which will be presented separately from women’s wear for the first time since Paul Surridge was appointed creative director in May. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
“I was making the guacamole when my scout saw me,” says model @stuckinteenage on being discovered just six months ago while working at @chipotlemexicangrill. Since then Williams has signed with @dnamodels, walked in her first show at @calvinklein and landed on the cover of @vogueitalia – a high point of any model’s career. To read @lisajlockwood’s full interview with the model on her experiences thus far, head to WWD.com – link in bio. (📷: George Chinsee)
“I love the idea of dialogue, period. It’s where I’ve always gotten my inspiration from: hearing other women speak, their journeys and their paths,” said @hereisgina, who delivered the keynote speech at the @sxsw conference for @createcultivate, the online platform and conference series for women. For her two panels, Rodriguez chose female empowering, female-led and female entrepreneurs to focus on. Head to WWD.com to read more about her thoughts on Time’s Up, growing up in a family of women and why we “need a girls’ club.” #wwdeye #sxsw (📷: @jgreenery)
Leading luxury brand are shaking things up to keep up with streetwear. Case in point: the arrival of @mrkimjones as artistic director of @diorhomme. Jones, who succeeds @Kris_Van_Assche, is seen as one of the handful of designers who can actually straddle the luxury and streetwear worlds — which could lead to even more changes at established brands. What could this mean for the rest of the menswear landscape? Head to WWD.com to find out what experts predict #wwdfashion (📷: @franckmura)
“It’s like buying groceries. You’re going to buy the best mango, the best mozzarella, the best things. You have to, or others are going to take it all,” said @gabrielahearst on why she uses only the finest fabrics. Last week, Hearst received her first @cfda nomination for Womenswear Designer of the Year, and earlier this month she opened a permanent showroom in Paris. To read @jessiredale’s interview with the designer and find out why this is shaping up to be a big year for her, head to WWD.com. #wwdfashion (📷: @francoisgoize)
“It’s an interesting thing, playing a younger version of your mother. It’s an interesting concept. I adore my mom and love her in every capacity, but it was just something that had never crossed my mind,” says @anniemstarke on playing a young Joan Castleman in “The Wife.” The same role will be played by her mother Glenn Close. Read more about her growing up in the film industry as the daughter of producer John H. Starke and Close and what she has planned for the future #wwdeye (📷: @nataliamantini)
@asics is launching a new streetwear sneaker inspired by its latest ambassador, @steveaoki. The Hyper-Kenzen x Aoki, which will launch at @footlocker stores exclusively tomorrow, is a slip-on style that incorporates the brand’s proprietary Gel technology through beads integrated into the midsole for comfort and endurance. Read the full story on WWD.com.