Pomellato Gems Inspire Scents

The jeweler’s first fragrance line, called Nudo, plays on the brand’s famous Nudo rings.

MILAN — Pomellato has made the leap from colorful gems to perfume.

This story first appeared in the July 26, 2013 issue of WWD.  Subscribe Today.

Playing on the brand’s famous Nudo rings — simple gold bands, each with a rounded, multifaceted gemstone in the middle — Pomellato and ICR-ITF have produced three different juices for the jeweler’s first fragrance line, also called Nudo.

“Pomellato is an important brand, strategic for the future of ITF,” said ITF president Roberto Martone. “We signed a long-term licensing agreement and we poured our best energies into this launch. The two companies have many affinities: creative products Made in Italy, our upscale positioning, and the fact that they are Milanese, like us.”

“This was a project undertaken in tandem with Pomellato’s creative direction, devising a perfume concept that brought the spirit of the jewel to ITF,” said Pomellato chief executive officer Andrea Morante. He noted the jewelry firm deliberately held off entering the fragrance arena until its international brand awareness in key markets was high and it could find the right partner.

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ICR, located in Lodi, Italy, produces all of ITF’s fragrances, while Pomellato jewelry is made in nearby Milan. The companies signed a licensing deal at the end of 2011. As of April of this year, Pomellato is part of the Kering group.

Martone said that the three Nudo scents — packaged in rectangular, multifaceted glass bottles with baublelike caps — were each linked to a different customer demographic, although they will all be available internationally through select retailers. He noted the eau de parfums will be sold at about 850 top Italian retailers, for instance, and reach about 4,000 doors worldwide when rollout is complete. The Nudo scents will debut in Western Europe and the Middle East in September and October, and in Spring 2014 they will arrive in Eastern Europe, Russia and Asia, before hitting shelves in North and South America in October 2014.

“The fragrances were selected keeping the Pomellato woman clearly in mind. A woman who is not necessarily conventional, who is independent in her choices and sophisticated in her elegance and in her tastes,” said Morante. He listed Europe — and notably Germany, where a new store will soon open on Sylt island — the U.S. and China as the strongest markets for Pomellato jewelry, and noted that the Chinese are moving “toward a less-ostentatious luxury, more intimate, more understated.”

Pomellato Nudo Amber, an oriental floral inspired by Madeira quartz and developed by Aurélien Guichard, opens with notes of orange flower absolute and Bulgarian rose essence, over a heart of Jasmine Sambac absolute and amber and a drydown of ambrox, musk ambrettolide and vanilla from Madagascar. The edp is aimed at the Middle East, U.S. and German markets.

Pomellato Nudo Blue, a musky, floral oriental created by Cécile Matton, takes aim at Mediterranean tastes with its London Blue topaz coloring. Top notes include a bamboo accord, lemon and blackcurrant, while the heart contains peony, magnolia, iris and freesia, and the base is a blend of white musk, heliotrope, amberwood and vanilla.

Matton is also the nose behind Pomellato Nudo Rose, an edp conceived for the Asian customer base that spurs from the Rose de France amethyst and, of course, roses. Top notes include pink grapefruit, peach, bergamot and water fruits; the heart is composed of rose, aquatic lily of the valley and pink freesia; and the drydown contains white musk, white cedarwood, sandalwood and cashmere wood.

Martone would not disclose any sales figures, however industry sources estimated the Pomellato Nudo line could bring in 10 million euros in retail sales in its first year on the market, or about $13 million at current exchange rates.

“The brand is very aspirational,” said Martone, adding that at this stage, only print advertising is planned. Italian actress Tea Falco fronts the campaign — “presented as Botticelli’s Venus — radiant,” Martone noted — with photography by Michel Comte intended to evoke parallels between wearing perfume and wearing jewelry.

The edps are available in 25-ml., 40-ml. and 90-ml. bottles, for 42 euros, 59 euros and 83 euros, respectively. Dollar prices are not yet confirmed. The bottles come in boxes inspired by Michael Lin’s floral fresco in Pomellato’s Milan flagship, with flowers in relief and pink-gold lettering. A Pomellato Jewel Technology Bath Collection, with jasmine, iris and rose scented products, will also be available alongside body lotion and body cream, tinted in pastel shades to match the fragrance line.