The only thing not launching a fragrance during the upcoming Milan men's fashion week appears to be the mosquitoes.
Starting Sunday, some of the biggest fashion names around will begin to roll out megaprojects that will only heighten the crescendo of what already has been a packed launch season. As the economy bites, retail sales sour and consumers become more cautious, beauty companies all seem to be shouting the same anthem: new, new, new.
The scale of ambition, particularly for Emporio Armani Diamonds for Men and Gucci by Gucci Pour Homme fragrances, has inspired global sales expectations that can only be described as cosmic. Retail volume targets, as estimated by industry sources, are flirting with a previously unimaginable $200 million. Here are the main players in next week's fragrance takedown in Milan and New York.
- Emporio Armani is certain that Diamonds for Men will dramatically heighten the designer's already dominant position in the global men's fragrance market. The target for the U.S. alone is number one.
- Hyperactive trailblazer Tom Ford will open his new 10,000-square-foot men's wear store in Milan while thinking of the fall launch of White Patchouli, as a counterpart to his other women's scent, Black Orchid. "I wanted to reinvent patchouli," said Ford. "I loved the idea of mixing patchouli with white florals."
- Gucci is betting that Gucci by Gucci Pour Homme will emulate fall's women's version, which is on track to do $200 million in its first year, according to industry sources.
- Up-and-coming designer Victoria Beckham and husband David are coming up in the world. Their fragrance licensee Coty Inc. is so impressed by their rising profile that the company will distribute the Beckhams' new Signature masterbrand in prestige outlets for the first time, instead of the mass market, as in the past.- Prada will unveil its latest men's scent, Infusion d'Homme, at its men's fashion show in Milan on Sunday. "This scent is an important next step in our quest to build our fragrance business," said Jose Manuel Albesa, general manager of Fragrance and Skincare SL, a venture between Prada and Puig.
There'll be no rest for those headed to Europe for men's, as Paris just closed the gap with Milan. According to a provisional calendar released by the Chambre Syndicale, Paris Men's Week will now open a day earlier on January 16. See new highlights on the official lineup on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
BREAKING: Jonathan Saunders is leaving @DVF. The designer has resigned from his position as chief creative officer of Diane von Furstenberg, the company said in a statement on Friday. At the time of his hire, von Furstenberg said Saunders’ arrival symbolized and facilitated her stepping back from the day-to-day duties that occupy the work of a full-time creative director. The British designer joined DVF in May 2016 and was in charge of all product categories. #wwdnews
For @versace_official’s spring ad campaign, the brand emphasized the archival prints from the spring tribute collection dedicated to the late Gianni Versace. Closing out the show were five of Gianni’s favorite models: Cindy, Naomi, Carla, Helena, and Claudia. Bowing on December 18, the new campaign is yet another tribute to supermodel-dom as the images by Steven Meisel are fronted by @iamnaomicampbell, @cturlington, @gisele and more. #wwdfashion
Four-time Oscar-nominated actress Annette Bening has been waiting 20 years to play Gloria Graham in "Film Stars Don't Die in Liverpool," which will be released on December 29. The movie about Graham – a Hollywood star known for her controversial relationship with a younger Englishman named Peter Turner – is based off a memoir Turned wrote. "She felt vulnerable to him, because she loved him, she really did love him. And anyone that we really truly are in love with, we re vulnerable to in a very deep way," said Bening. Read our full interview with the modern icon of an actress on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @ninebagatelles; Styled by @cristinaehrlich)
The crisp white button down: a staple that can be dressed up or down and accessorized throughout the decades. Here, on a Art Basel-goer in 2017 on the left and on the iconic Audrey Hepburn in “Roman Holiday” in 1953 on the right. #tbt #wwdfashion (📷: Andrew Morales)
Known for her work with @victoriassecret, 25-year-old model @georgiafowler is raising her profile in Hollywood. Fowler stars in @vincecamuto’s holiday campaign, which launched in partnership with “Pitch Perfect 3.” “Almost every shoot with Vince Camuto, I’ve had to face a fear…It was definitely a challenge. I’m so grateful for it, though. I’ve always wanted to be a pop star, so that was the perfect chance,” Fowler said. Head to WWD.com to read about Fowler’s experience modeling, including at the #VSFashionShow, and her relationship with Nick Jonas. #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
EXCLUSIVE: Huda Kattan just became the first beauty influencer to land a major beauty deal. Kattan's business, @hudabeauty, has received a minority investment from private equity firm TSG Consumer Partners. The brand, which industry sources say is on track to do $200 million in retail sales for 2017, will receive support on product, retail and geographic expansion through the deal. Get all the details on the deal and read @_a_collins' interview with Kattan on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdbeauty #wwdnews
Peruvian model @juanaburga_official – who is known for walking the runways of @rodarte, @viviennewestwood and @torybuch – is making the move to the big screen with drama “Los Últimos.” The film premiered in Argentina in November and arrives in the U.S. and Europe in 2018. On making the switch from modeling to acting, Burga told WWD: “It’s a completely different thing – a lot of people think it’s similar or try to connect things, especially like getting used to the camera or being looked at all the time or playing these different characrers, but film is a completely different story.” #wwdeye (📷: @jgreenery)
London’s newly opened @designmuseum will look back on the life and work of Azzedine Alaïa in a show that the designer helped to curate before he died of heart failure last month. The retrospective, which Alaïa had worked on with Mark Wilson, chief curator of the @groningermuseum, will look at the impact of his work worldwide. The show, “Azzedine Alaïa: The Couturier,” will run from May 10 to October 7. Read more about the exhibit on WWD.com #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @zefashioninsider)