The only thing not launching a fragrance during the upcoming Milan men's fashion week appears to be the mosquitoes.
Starting Sunday, some of the biggest fashion names around will begin to roll out megaprojects that will only heighten the crescendo of what already has been a packed launch season. As the economy bites, retail sales sour and consumers become more cautious, beauty companies all seem to be shouting the same anthem: new, new, new.
The scale of ambition, particularly for Emporio Armani Diamonds for Men and Gucci by Gucci Pour Homme fragrances, has inspired global sales expectations that can only be described as cosmic. Retail volume targets, as estimated by industry sources, are flirting with a previously unimaginable $200 million. Here are the main players in next week's fragrance takedown in Milan and New York.
- Emporio Armani is certain that Diamonds for Men will dramatically heighten the designer's already dominant position in the global men's fragrance market. The target for the U.S. alone is number one.
- Hyperactive trailblazer Tom Ford will open his new 10,000-square-foot men's wear store in Milan while thinking of the fall launch of White Patchouli, as a counterpart to his other women's scent, Black Orchid. "I wanted to reinvent patchouli," said Ford. "I loved the idea of mixing patchouli with white florals."
- Gucci is betting that Gucci by Gucci Pour Homme will emulate fall's women's version, which is on track to do $200 million in its first year, according to industry sources.
- Up-and-coming designer Victoria Beckham and husband David are coming up in the world. Their fragrance licensee Coty Inc. is so impressed by their rising profile that the company will distribute the Beckhams' new Signature masterbrand in prestige outlets for the first time, instead of the mass market, as in the past.- Prada will unveil its latest men's scent, Infusion d'Homme, at its men's fashion show in Milan on Sunday. "This scent is an important next step in our quest to build our fragrance business," said Jose Manuel Albesa, general manager of Fragrance and Skincare SL, a venture between Prada and Puig.
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye
"Nowadays when life is not so happy with everything going on in the world, I think people come to me for a little bit of whimsy and color and fun." - Designer Rebecca De Ravenel on her cult-favorite jewelry line. (📸 : @vsteves) #wwd40
“Everyone is talking about how the retail industry is struggling, but I think it’s an incredible time because brands who are doing something different and innovative are setting themselves up for the future,” said @adamgoldston, who founded the luxury athletic brand @apl with his brother @ryangoldsten. The Goldston’s are part of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables. See the rest of the list on WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
@eyeswoon blogger Athena Calderone debuted her first-ever cookbook, “Cook Beautiful,” which is heavily centered on the presentation and visual expression of food. Pictured here are her miso glazed carrots from the book. Get the recipe on WWD.com. (📷: @johnny_miller_) #wwdeye
“It’s passion that helps get anybody to a certain point and it’s what’s propelled me,” said Kith founder @ronniefieg, one of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables who are changing the face of retail, fashion and beauty. Fieg, who opened a Manhattan flagship on October 7, began his career at age 13 as a stock boy and salesman for footwear chain David Z. “I think staying true to [my] beliefs, hard work and passion have gotten me to where [Kith] is today.” See the rest of the 40 at WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
25-year-old @samweaving is about to break out this fall, starring in Netflix’s horror film “The Babysitter,” fittingly out today on Friday the 13th. That’s not the only place you’ll be seeing her, though — Weaving’s got a role Showtime’s “SMILF” and another alongside Frances McDormand and Woody Harrelson in “Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri.” Though she’s got a full plate at the moment, there’s one role she’s got her eye on: Marilyn Monroe. “I’m a little too young at the moment, but it’s on my bucket list,” the actress told WWD (📷: @dandoperalski) #wwdeye
BFF's Poppy Jamie and Suki Waterhouse celebrated the launch of their bag line Pop x Suki at Nordstrom last night. "The line is really about our friendship, and how we are so different but complement each other," said Waterhouse. 👯 (📷: Katie Jones) #wwdeye
After designing the new @louisvuitton and @bulgariofficial flagships and a @chanelofficial boutique opening in Japan, @petermarinoarchitect has another project on his plate: The Lobster Club. Located in the Seagram Building, it’s the famed architect’s first restaurant project in New York, serving up modern Japanese brasserie-style cuisine. Bronze hues, bespoke material detailing, blush and chartreuse tones and a heavy emphasis on Picasso can be seen throughout. Mark your calendars for Nov. 1 for the much-anticipated opening. (📷: @clint_spaulding) #wwdeye
Did you know: @carlychaikin of "Mr. Robot" has been painting for about a decade? The actress, who plays Darlene on the show, is a self-taught artist who lists Salvador Dalí and Chuck Close as some of her idols. Chaikin told WWD that painting is a form of meditation for her — A much-needed one given the intensity of "Mr. Robot." See a piece Chaikin is working on at WWD.com (📷: @jilliansollazzo) #wwdeye