The only thing not launching a fragrance during the upcoming Milan men's fashion week appears to be the mosquitoes.
Starting Sunday, some of the biggest fashion names around will begin to roll out megaprojects that will only heighten the crescendo of what already has been a packed launch season. As the economy bites, retail sales sour and consumers become more cautious, beauty companies all seem to be shouting the same anthem: new, new, new.
The scale of ambition, particularly for Emporio Armani Diamonds for Men and Gucci by Gucci Pour Homme fragrances, has inspired global sales expectations that can only be described as cosmic. Retail volume targets, as estimated by industry sources, are flirting with a previously unimaginable $200 million. Here are the main players in next week's fragrance takedown in Milan and New York.
- Emporio Armani is certain that Diamonds for Men will dramatically heighten the designer's already dominant position in the global men's fragrance market. The target for the U.S. alone is number one.
- Hyperactive trailblazer Tom Ford will open his new 10,000-square-foot men's wear store in Milan while thinking of the fall launch of White Patchouli, as a counterpart to his other women's scent, Black Orchid. "I wanted to reinvent patchouli," said Ford. "I loved the idea of mixing patchouli with white florals."
- Gucci is betting that Gucci by Gucci Pour Homme will emulate fall's women's version, which is on track to do $200 million in its first year, according to industry sources.
- Up-and-coming designer Victoria Beckham and husband David are coming up in the world. Their fragrance licensee Coty Inc. is so impressed by their rising profile that the company will distribute the Beckhams' new Signature masterbrand in prestige outlets for the first time, instead of the mass market, as in the past.- Prada will unveil its latest men's scent, Infusion d'Homme, at its men's fashion show in Milan on Sunday. "This scent is an important next step in our quest to build our fragrance business," said Jose Manuel Albesa, general manager of Fragrance and Skincare SL, a venture between Prada and Puig.
In yet another fashion show shuffle, @elleryland is moving its show in sync with the Paris couture calendar — though the brand is still keeping one foot on the city’s ready-to-wear schedule. Their runway show in January will coincide with the launch of a new strategy: designing two main collections each year instead of four, which will then be released in four drops. “As we all know, the system needs to change. We need to show sooner to give time back to artisans and designers to do what they do best — create,” said founder Kym Ellery. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@maxmara’s classic 101801 coat was the cornerstone of its pre-fall 2018 collection. The design team expanded the traditional double-breasted, kimono-sleeved style into a trapeze coat, lean belted styles and a peacoat and presented them in monochromatic looks – like the camel one pictured here. #wwdfashion #prefall18 (📷: George Chinsee)
The @cfda has shifted the dates of #NYFW, with Men’s showing on February 5 through February 7, and Women’s will directly follow, running from February 8 through 14. The preliminary schedule will be released on the CFDA’s web site in the next few days, but Mark Beckham, VP of marketing for the CFDA, revealed that @rafsimons will be back to close the men’s-specific part of the week with a show on February 7 #wwdfashion (📷: Kelly Taub)
@ferragamo is introducing a new space dedicated to the development of women’s and men’s leather good samples. The laboratory, which is created eco-friendly materials and designed to reduce the environmental impact of the manufacturing processes, will allow the company to expand its accessories offering through traditional artisanal approaches. #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
How does a “regular, degular, schmegular” girl from the Bronx, N.Y., become a Grammy-nominated artist with a certified platinum record in less than a year? Call it the @iamcardib come up. The 25-year-old has become a musical sensation, and the fashion world is taking note. “If I could describe her style I would say drama. She’s really into the dramatics,” says Cardi B’s stylist @kollincarter. See how Carter styles her bold and out there looks with the link in bio. #wwdfashion
“There is no formula. There is no guideline. I can watch Ted Talks all day, but there is no one who can advise me on exactly what it is I should be doing,” said @ronniefieg, CEO of @kith, in an interview with WWD’s @ariahughes at the brand’s new SoHo office in Manhattan. Head to WWD.com to see how Fieg went from hanging out in shoe stockrooms at 13 to building his own business. #wwdfashion (📷: @weston.wells)
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion