MILAN — Signorina Eleganza is still a charming young woman, but she’s got a few more years’ experience tucked under her Vara bow than her Signorina predecessor. With its latest fragrance launch, which kicks off next month, Salvatore Ferragamo Parfums aims to corner a new market segment, one that’s more self-confident — and possesses a bit more disposable income.
This story first appeared in the January 31, 2014 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
“With the original Signorina, we had a core target of a woman between 18 and 25 years old, and now we’re really looking at a woman 25 to 30 or 35 years old, who’s a little more mature and independent,” said Ferragamo Parfums chief executive officer Luciano Bertinelli, adding that the new scent is priced 8 to 10 percent higher than the previous.
A 30-ml. bottle will retail for 56 euros, or about $76 at current exchange. The 50-ml. and 100-ml. versions will sell for 80 euros, or about $108, and 105 euros, or about $142, respectively.
“I thought of the development and the feeling of this fragrance as the narrative of a certain elegance and femininity — of a sensuality that is still natural, but more self-aware,” said Ferragamo creative director Massimiliano Giornetti, noting the choice of the Polish model Anja Rubik for the advertising campaign, shot by Mario Sorrenti, reflected this direction.
Sophie Labbé of International Flavors & Fragrances, who also worked on Signorina, created the new juice. “I was really inspired by a Ferragamo fashion show I went to in 2013, the resort line shown in the Louvre arcades [in Paris],” said Labbé, describing soft leather dresses in beige. “I wanted to create a fragrance based on this idea of skin tones, so I thought of osmanthus flowers, which are very multifaceted,” she added.
Top notes include grapefruit and pear, while the heart is composed of almonds and absolute osmanthus, and the drydown, heart of patchouli and a white leather accord. The clear glass fragrance bottle maintains the rectangular shape of the first, with a gold base and a rounded cap decorated with a grosgrain bow in two tones of beige.
When rollout is complete, Bertinelli said Signorina Eleganza will be present in about 12,000 doors. Though he would not give a specific sales projection for the edp, Bertinelli said expectations are high, based on the enthusiastic reception of the original Signorina in emerging markets. “Russia really bowled us over, as did China,” Bertinelli noted. Industry sources estimate that Signorina Eleganza could bring in $60 million in retail sales in its first year on the market.
Salvatore Ferragamo ceo Michele Norsa said Ferragamo Parfums now represents 7 percent of the fashion firm’s total turnover. “It continues to represent an opportunity to enlarge our customer base, our audience, through perfumes and personal-care products,” he said. “The opportunity to reach new potential aspirational consumers is significant. I think that what the brand has built over the past few years is a sense of freshness, of continuous renewal.”
Norsa also stressed the importance of targeting very specific age brackets with each fragrance proposal. “Even age groups that are quite close have different consumption habits,” he said.