I Miss Violet


While this fragrance from The Different Company was cited by some as exhibiting certain charms — retro chic, distinctive and a nice combination of opening notes — another judge complained that the violet note is overpowering while another was turned off by a perceived sweet fruity combination. Then there is the final dilemma. “It needs more character to be memorable,” another judge said. Total overall score: 5.1
“Retro floral aldehydic fragrance with a powdery, fruity (osmanthus and plum) and animalic quality.”
Artistic score: 5 Technical score: 8

“A potent, powdery violet whose impact is so strong, any subtlety is lost.”
Artistic score: 5 Technical score: 6

“A Pleasures from Estée Lauder-like scheme.”
Artistic score: 3 Technical score: 2

“Chic with a retro edge.”
Artistic score: 6 Technical score: 6

“A nice combination for the first notes made of interesting floral flowers. Too bad the heart is so alcoholic fruity and invades the rest.”
Artistic score: 4 Technical score: 4

“Not long-lasting, no signature and sillage. Weak and flat.”
Artistic score: 4 Technical score: 4

“If they were trying to create the feel of a vintage perfume, they nailed it.”
Artistic score: 8 Technical score: 7

“Distinctive and long-lasting, but with a bit of a sharp edge.”
Artistic Score: 6 Technical Score: 8

“Iris top note bolted onto conventional floral. Soon falls off.”
Artistic score: 4 Technical score: 7

 

ABOUT THE TEST AND JUDGES: This is a blind test, panelists are given vials of unidentified scent to judge impartially. Each of them gives a score ranging from 1 (forgettable) to 10 (unforgettable) and the numbers are computed into a final grade. The judges, led by chairman Michael Edwards, also make critiques, which are unattributed to encourage candor. The most promising scents are picked for judging in an effort to find and showcase excellence. WWD buys the products at retail, like any other consumer. The esteemed judges are: Michael Edwards, author of “Fragrances of the World” and “Perfume Legends”; Paul Austin, chief executive officer of sensory storytelling agency Austin Advisory Group; Jean-Claude Delville, senior perfumer at Drom; Karen Dubin, founder and ceo of Sniffapalooza; Victoria Frolova, fragrance industry analyst and Bois de Jasmin editor; Christophe Laudamiel, master perfumer at DreamAir; Nathalie Pichard, owner of training and evaluation agency Topnotes; Chantal Roos, cocreator of Roos & Roos Co.; Luca Turin, biophysicist and perfume critic for arabia.style.com, and Kevin Verspoor, founder of PerfumeKev LLC.

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