Thierry Mugler is tapping into the power of womanhood with his new fragrance, the first major brand he has launched since Alien in 2005.
The entry, due out in the fall, is called Womanity, a made-up word meant to associate with femininity, humanity and city. The designer — who launched the groundbreaking and still top-ranked Angel in 1992 — was interested in breaking the industry mold once again,according to Joel Palix, president of the Paris-based Clarins Fragrance Group Worldwide, which includes Thierry Mugler Parfums.
Spirits are high at the company. Although executives declined to disclose numbers, industry sources estimate the new scent could generate $80 million to $90 million at retail in the first 12 months of its global launch, with 10 to 15 percent of that total earmarked for media support. Angel still generates an estimated 200 million euros, or $264 million, in retail sales worldwide and Alien does about 60 percent of that total.
Palix said Mugler, buttressed by focus groups, sees the evolving quest of women as a drive to express themselves and their ideas. He created a Web site, Womanity.com, as a platform for dialogue. The more women connected with each other, according to Mugler’s perception, the more creativity is released.
The site was launched on March 8 and it attracted one million visitors so far. In addition, Mugler produced a surrealistic film in the South of France, featuring unknown actresses “as a tribute to the new femininity of women meeting other women,” Palix said.
In order to create content for the site, one idea is to provide the beginning of a story that will be finished by different women, each writing their own page. A contest will solicit ideas from women for a particular project or cause. The winner will work with Mugler in completing it.
The fragrance was designed to be a part of this phenomenon, with a suitably pink bottle. The womanhood connection is represented as a chain and ring dangling from the top of the bottle, which is encased in a metal “frieze” that is inscribed with symbolic designs. Noting that the figures could be interpreted as Gothic, Art Deco or a style from another period altogether, Palix said, “[Mugler] wanted all generations of women to be encapsulated in the frieze.”
The composition of the fragrance is classic Mugler in that the formula, developed by Mane, is powered by a contrast of elements. Pierre Aulas, olfactive artistic director of the Clarins Fragrance Group, said the challenge was in working with Mugler’s idea to pair savory and sweet accords. Using a new molecular extraction process, Mane was able to pluck odiferous molecules out of a fig fruit for the sweet accord. The savory element came from caviar. Structure was provided from the woodsy elements of the fig tree.
In order to reach a younger audience, pricing was made somewhat more accessible, Palix noted. The opening price point in the U.S. of the eau de parfum spray is $58 for a 1 oz. size. The 1.7-oz. size is priced at $78 and the 2.7 oz. is $98. There will be three ancillary items as well — a perfumed shower gel for $40, a body milk for $5 and a body cream for $55. All are 6.8-oz. bottles.
In keeping with consumers’ ecological sensitivities, the bottle is refillable and the amount of cardboard used in the outer packaging has been minimized by eliminating leaflets and inserts. Also, the box was designed to be unfolded to reveal the idea of the fragrance printed inside.
It will be available on Web sites in June, then go on counter at Selfridges in London on July 8 and ship to major European chains in August. Bloomingdale’s will launch it in New York in mid-July for an exclusive before select Nordstroms get the fragrance in early October. A full rollout will begin at the end of the month, according to Jonathan Zrihen, president and chief executive officer of Clarins Group USA and Canada. He estimated the ultimate U.S. door count at 700.
“What he has done at Vuitton is really exceptional,” said @gameofthrones’ actress Gwendoline Christie on @mrkimjones’ final show for @louisvuitton. “He has rebooted luxury in terms of making it commercial, viable and contemporary. And most importantly artistic. He has never compromised his artistic vision for the sake of commodity.” (📷: @zefashioninsider)
After seeing a demand for men’s wear from its customers, British contemporary women’s wear label @ariesarise has added a men’s wear component and will launch a unisex collection with @mrporterlive. The 20-piece collection includes jackets, denim, logo T-shirts and more with deconstructed ‘90s vibes. Set to launch on January 18, you can shop the pieces on Aries’ website and on mrporter.com. #wwdfashion
“And so spending so much time with a character who thinks like that, inevitability you try and analyze yourself and go back and think about your own demons and dark chapters that you had in your life,” says @thedanielbruhl of his role in TNT’s “The Alienist.” The show, set in the Gilded Age of New York, also stars Dakota Fanning and Luke Evans. Head to WWD.com to read about how 39-year-old Brühl prepared for the role and why he thinks the show is so relevant to today #wwdeye ( 📷: @Eriktanner)
Now that Celine Dion’s collection has topped $10 million in sales, the pop superstar, fashion icon and newly-minted industry player is eyeing growth in Asia. Read the full report by @tiffanyap, link in bio. #wwdnews #celinedion
“My personal philosophy to beauty is paying attention to oneself. I love to be outdoors, lots of fresh air, trying to take care of yourself as best you can. I always notice that comes through,” says Felicity Jones, the global face of @shiseido-owned @cledepeaubeauteus, which launches today. Head to WWD.com to read more about the actress’ love for beauty and how she prepared for her new role in “The Basis of Sex,” playing the young Ruth Bader Ginsburg. #wwdbeauty (📷: @dandoperalski)
Among the familiar faces at @off____white’s show was a surprise figure: Japanese artist @takashipom, pictured here on Wednesday morning. Other show-goers included @jerrylorenzo, who spoke about his upcoming project: a @nike collaboration for back to school, with designs inspired by his childhood on the West Coast. Sitting in the front row were Future, Don Crawley, @miguel and more. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: Stephane Feugere)
According to @laurentsai, former “Terrace House: Aloha State” cast member, she didn’t know she was auditioning for the Japanese version of “Real World.” “I was telling a couple of my friends and someone’s like, ‘That sounds a lot like Terrace House.’ I was like, ’No it can’t be.’” Turns out, it was. But Tsai isn’t just a reality star — she’s an illustrator who has worked with Starbucks Japan and most recently, she’s dipping her toes into the fashion world. Head to WWD.com to read about her time on the show, modeling and her art. #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)
More changes are coming to New York Fashion Week: Beginning with the spring 2019 collection, @alexanderwangny will move his New York show to June from September, adopting a biannual schedule with collections shown in June and December. Additionally, the @cfda is planning for an official summer/winter fashion season taking place as soon as June and December 2018. Read more about the upcoming changes on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @slovekinpics)