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MILAN — With its clashing architecture, lack of greenery and congested traffic, Milan is not a city that leaves everyone smitten, but those who know it well come to appreciate its mix of sobriety and style. The new Trussardi men’s eau de toilette, Trussardi My Land, which will hit stores at the end of September, is a love letter to the oft-maligned city, with Tomaso Trussardi as testimonial in a commercial shot by film director Wim Wenders.
At the newly opened Terrazza Aperol in Milan’s Piazza del Duomo, which is within eyeshot of the city’s Gothic Duomo cathedral, Trussardi — son of Nicola Trussardi, who turned his family’s luxury glove-making business into a major fashion player — gamely posed for pictures with guests at the fragrance presentation. When he isn’t modeling for campaigns, Trussardi is chief executive officer for TRS Evolution, the Trussardi Group company that produces the brand’s first and second lines of clothing and accessories.
Working on the campaign “was fun,” Trussardi said with a grin, noting he agreed to be featured in the commercial only if Wenders agreed to direct. “It was an honor working with him. He travels a lot and films different cities, and he understood this is an ode to Milan and to Trussardi….I’ve lived in Milan for years. I love Milan,” he said.
Perfumer Alexandra Kosinski of Givaudan created the woodsy, fougere eau de toilette, which opens with bergamot and green mandarin. The heart contains lavender, breezy calone and violet flowers over a base of cashmeran, vetiver, leather and tonka beans.
“I hope that this new project can represent the excellence of products made in Italy,” said Roberto Martone, president of ICR-ITF, which acquired the Trussardi fragrance license in 2010, a year before the fashion house feted its 100th anniversary. “It’s a product that originates from traditional artisan craftsmanship, the know-how that Trussardi built with its history and tradition.”
The European rollout of the fragrance will be complete by the end of the year, while the Middle East and Far East regions will see it in stores next spring. By October 2013, Trussardi My Land will be available worldwide at a total of about 7,000 doors. In Europe, Italy and Germany are top markets for Trussardi fragrances. The Middle East and China are important new regions, and Martone said expansion in the Americas is planned. He would not discuss sales figures, but industry sources suggested the fragrance could generate 15 million euros or 16 million euros wholesale over a year.
In Wenders’ campaign film, Milan is a moody city at the end of a day, awash in muted grays and blues, with the gentle sparkle of streetlights. Trussardi walks through well-known locations — the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, the Castello Sforzesco, the Piazza della Scala — shedding his keys and bag along the way and unbuttoning his shirt by a bathtub in the Parco Sempione. The final shots show Trussardi on the rooftop of the Duomo, gazing lovingly at the city skyline. Wenders noted the commercial tells the story of “a man who treats the whole city as if it’s his own.”
ICR-ITF and Trussardi called on sociologist Francesco Morace to develop the project in keeping with the brand’s history and identity. Morace said the focus was on “deep ties and a complicity with the city of Milan,” and noted that credibility, rather than flashiness, was important for the brand.
“Milan is a city that, in both fashion and design, has conceived and produced a discreet, elegant style that pays attention to materials and details and is never gaudy,” he said.
Architect Antonio Citterio designed the rectangular glass bottle with a hand-finished, vegetable-tanned leather band around it, engraved with the Trussardi greyhound crest. He said leather was the first thing he associated with the fashion house, and decided the fragrance bottle needed to be something lasting rather than disposable. “It’s like an old book,” Citterio said. “You don’t throw old books away, you want to keep them.”
The bottle’s neck sits below its shoulders, hiding the pump, a feature that Citterio took some pains to develop, and the packaging features an antique-gold-colored box with the Trussardi name and logo emblazoned across the front.
Trussardi My Land will be available in three sizes: 1 oz., 1.7 oz. and 3.4 oz., which will retail for 41 euros, 57 euros and 79 euros, or $45, $59 and $79, respectively. A 3.4-oz. aftershave lotion natural spray for 53 euros, or $55; shampoo and shower gel for 28 euros, or $29, and both natural spray and alcohol-free deodorants for 27 euros each, or $28, will make up the fragrance’s extension line.