PARIS — Dutch fashion designers Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren have poured their latest women’s fragrance into a striking bottled shaped like a bow — a potent symbol of haute couture.
Called Bonbon, it was unveiled at the conclusion of their spring couture show here on Wednesday night — a choreographed fashion spectacle featuring Dutch National Ballet dancers walking en pointe in flesh-toned latex dresses hand-painted with birds, butterflies, ribbons and plenty of bows. RELATED STORY: Viktor & Rolf Couture Spring 2014 >>
“They’re completely involved in the creation,” said Nathalie Durán, international general manager of designer fragrance brands at L’Oréal, Viktor & Rolf’s fragrance licensee. Repeatedly using the French word for “good,” she added: “They wanted a fragrance that would be bon, very bon, twice bon — so a fragrance named Bonbon.”
Bonbon, which means “candy,” is for women celebrating pleasure, self-indulgence and letting go, according to Durán.
Its flacon and campaign imagery dovetail from the concept. In single- and double-page ads photographed by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin, model Edita Vilkeviciute sits cross-legged with a large version of the bottle in her lap. Rows of pink ribbons are painted on the skin of her otherwise nude body.
Horsting and Snoeren, who founded their house 21 years ago, said the idea for the couture collection — tattoolike decorations on second-skin dresses — sprang from the shoot.
Bonbon’s outer, raspberry-colored box, which appears to be tied up like a gift, bears Viktor & Rolf’s signature seal.
Mane perfumers Cécile Matton and Serge Majoullier helped create the new juice, which like Viktor & Rolf’s first women’s scent, Flowerbomb, is a gourmand fragrance. Bonbon’s juice is centered on a caramel note and also includes mandarin, orange, peach, jasmine, orange blossom, gaiac wood, cedar wood, sandalwood and amber notes.
The fragrance will be launched exclusively in March at Viktor & Rolf’s recently opened Paris boutique, de Bijenkorf in the Netherlands and Selfridges in the U.K. The next stage of the rollout is to include Saks Fifth Avenue in the U.S. in April.
In its first year, Bonbon will be in highly selective distribution, not all of Viktor & Rolf’s approximately 7,000 fragrance doors.
“We take the time to build the business; it’s not media-driven,” said Durán, explaining there is almost no television ad presence for the brand but instead an in-store focus.
The Bonbon eau de parfum will be available as 30-, 50- and 100-ml. sprays that are to retail in France for 58, 85.50 and 108.90 euros, or $79, $117 and $149 at current exchange, respectively.
While L’Oréal executives would not discuss sales projections, industry sources estimate Bonbon will generate 40 million euros, or $54.8 million, in first-year retail sales.
Flowerbomb was introduced in 2005 and is estimated to be among the top 16 prestige women’s fragrances worldwide, according to Durán. It ranks fifth in the U.S. and number one in the scent’s specific distribution. In the U.K., it is 14th overall and third in the doors it is in.
Viktor & Rolf also launched a women’s fragrance, Eau Mega, in 2009. Then the men’s scent Spicebomb came out in 2012 and ranks second in its distribution in the U.S. and fifth in the U.K.
In honor the @CFDA’s announcement of @iamnaomicampbell receiving the Fashion Icon Award at the 2018 #CFDAAwards, which will take place on June 4, here’s a #tbt of the supermodel on @michaelkors’ runway in 1991. #wwdfashion #wwdarchive (📷: George Chinsee)
“I was making the guacamole when my scout saw me,” says model @stuckinteenage on being discovered just six months ago while working at @chipotlemexicangrill. Since then Williams has signed with @dnamodels, walked in her first show at @calvinklein and landed on the cover of @vogueitalia – a high point of any model’s career. To read @lisajlockwood’s full interview with the model on her experiences thus far, head to WWD.com – link in bio. (📷: George Chinsee)
“I love the idea of dialogue, period. It’s where I’ve always gotten my inspiration from: hearing other women speak, their journeys and their paths,” said @hereisgina, who delivered the keynote speech during @sxsw for @createcultivate in partnership with @fossil. For her two panels, Rodriguez chose female empowering, female-led and female entrepreneurs to focus on. Head to WWD.com to read more about her thoughts on Time’s Up, growing up in a family of women and why we “need a girls’ club.” #wwdeye #sxsw (📷: @jgreenery)
Leading luxury brand are shaking things up to keep up with streetwear. Case in point: the arrival of @mrkimjones as artistic director of @diorhomme. Jones, who succeeds @Kris_Van_Assche, is seen as one of the handful of designers who can actually straddle the luxury and streetwear worlds — which could lead to even more changes at established brands. What could this mean for the rest of the menswear landscape? Head to WWD.com to find out what experts predict #wwdfashion (📷: @franckmura)
“It’s like buying groceries. You’re going to buy the best mango, the best mozzarella, the best things. You have to, or others are going to take it all,” said @gabrielahearst on why she uses only the finest fabrics. Last week, Hearst received her first @cfda nomination for Womenswear Designer of the Year, and earlier this month she opened a permanent showroom in Paris. To read @jessiredale’s interview with the designer and find out why this is shaping up to be a big year for her, head to WWD.com. #wwdfashion (📷: @francoisgoize)
“It’s an interesting thing, playing a younger version of your mother. It’s an interesting concept. I adore my mom and love her in every capacity, but it was just something that had never crossed my mind,” says @anniemstarke on playing a young Joan Castleman in “The Wife.” The same role will be played by her mother Glenn Close. Read more about her growing up in the film industry as the daughter of producer John H. Starke and Close and what she has planned for the future #wwdeye (📷: @nataliamantini)
@asics is launching a new streetwear sneaker inspired by its latest ambassador, @steveaoki. The Hyper-Kenzen x Aoki, which will launch at @footlocker stores exclusively tomorrow, is a slip-on style that incorporates the brand’s proprietary Gel technology through beads integrated into the midsole for comfort and endurance. Read the full story on WWD.com.