At the recent men’s spring/summer 2010 collections, the overall attitude was clear: Boys just wanna have fun. And what better than big hair—voluminous, playful, retro—to enhance the rebelliousness and escapist sensibility that ruled the runways in Milan and Paris.
This story first appeared in the August 14, 2009 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
One of the most directional hairstyles was seen at Bottega Veneta, where designer Tomas Maier showed a collection full of color and vibrant energy. The models’ hair matched accordingly. “I wanted the look to be sexy, rebellious and fun,” says Guido, the star hairstylist who created the look. “The inspiration came from an Eighties boy doing a Fifties look.” The vintage style featured huge volume on top and was flattened on the sides; the hair was matte and styled with texture and depth. It was the perfect blend of Elvis and Eighties punk.
Meanwhile, Frida Giannini took the Gucci man to Brazil, styling him with highly polished, glossy hair. Giannini drew inspiration from the architect Oscar Niemeyer, who designed many public buildings in Brasilia. The hair was extremely coiffed with a very low part, slicked to the side and high on the corner. The uneven volume from the top gave the feeling of graphic architecture and modernism, which defined the Gucci look for the season.
D&G and Salvatore Ferragamo also drew inspiration from travels to warmer climates, but kept it cool with perfectly executed hair that was high volume and slicked-back. At YSL, Stefano Pilati successfully broke the conventional suit uniform with a collection that illustrated a relaxed approach to everyday chic dressing. The hair was styled with volume and angles to complement the designer’s new suit proportions. The tight sides and the exaggerated pompadour on top created a geometric rectangular effect with sharp edges to ground the YSL masculinity.
“I was looking for a fun, clean, precise but not too done hair look,” says designer Italo Zucchelli, of the styles at his Spring Calvin Klein collection. “James Dean was my main inspiration. His hair was always perfect but he exuded a sense of effortless style. He is an all-American icon.” Zucchelli achieved the look with a clean contrast between tightly cropped sides and a soft exaggerated top.