Talk about a growing trend.
This story first appeared in the February 1, 2013 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
As evidenced by a slew of recent product launches, particularly in the mass market, one thing remains clear: Hair care companies — from mass to professional — will continue pushing the notion of antiaging from the crown down in the New Year.
“We live in a time that [consumers] have to start treating hair just the way they treat skin,” said Brian Hendricks, director of education for DS Laboratories Inc., a professional hair care brand under DS Healthcare Group Inc. “The hair follicle, like everything else in the body, begins to slow down with age. The earlier they start taking care of it, the better [the result] is going to be.”
Skin care-inspired hair care is an expanding category, to be sure, lead by mass brands like Pantene, L’Oréal Paris, Nexxus and, most recently, CVS’ exclusive range Nuance Salma Hayek, which will add the thinness-combating Flax Seed Age Therapy Shampoo and Conditioner in March. In April, L’Oréal-owned professional hair brand, Kérastase will bring to the U.S., Initialiste, a skin care-inspired serum for the scalp meant to maintain hair’s integrity with a concentrated cocktail of ingredients like ceramides and green tea.
“With this launch, we’re taking a new approach on the way people care for their hair by replicating a skin care routine with a targeted pipette application directly to the scalp,” said Julien Bouzitat, vice president of marketing for Kérastase and Shu Uemura Art of Hair. “Ultimately scalp is skin, and we want to educate people to treat it in kind.”
For its part, DS Laboratories, which offers treatments products for everything from dandruff to hair loss, will begin to roll out three new products to the salon sector designed to promote hair growth.
Launching to about 8,000 salon doors in the U.S., Canada, and Europe, the offering includes Revita.LT, a hair-growth stimulating shampoo specifically formulated to protect lighter hair colors, Spectral.DNC-S and Spectral.DNC-N, a treatment previously available only in international markets that deposits Nanoxidil 5% as a replacement for minoxidil, which is found in many existing hair-growing technologies. The ingredient is said to work as an ion channel opener without side effects.
“A lot of the ingredients that stimulate hair growth are actually good for your skin,” said Khesin, chief executive officer of DS Healthcare, adding that DS Laboratories is the main driver of the parent company’s robust growth, accounting for 80 percent of total revenue, which gained 77 percent between 2010 and 2011. Although the brand would not talk numbers on its three newest offerings — which range from $31 for a shampoo to $55 for a treatment — industry sources estimate they could generate between $18 million and $20 million in their first year at retail.
According to Khesin, the company’s hero offerings include its Revita Shampoo and Conditioner line, said to promote healthy growth with skin-care-like ingredients, and its Spectral treatments, which aim to grow hair with a unique “nanosome encapsulation” to ensure the key compounds continue treating the follicle for 12 hours. Khesin said that about 70 percent of the company’s sales are attributed to these two product ranges.
To market its newest offerings, DS Laboratories relies primarily on salon education and offers consumers a 100 percent satisfaction guarantee program on products purchased through salons. A print ad campaign is also planned for the last quarter of 2013 or first quarter of 2014 in both trade and consumer publications.