LONG BEACH, Calif. — The ripple effects of recent hair care acquisitions and the continuously unraveling economy reverberated through the 33,000 attendees and 440 exhibitors at the International Salon and Spa Expo that was held Saturday to Monday at the Convention Center here.
George Eliades, vice president of business development at Tigi, the Lewisville, Tex.-based company with Bed Head, Catwalk and S Factor in its flotilla of brands that’s being bought by Unilever, acknowledged stylists have expressed concern about Unilever possibly pushing Tigi into the retail market. In response, he offered assurances the acquisition was intended to elevate Tigi’s international presence, not to abandon its professional heritage.
“What they have seen is a homogenization of the beauty industry,” said Eliades, explaining why the consolidation that has left Procter & Gamble, L’Oréal and Estée Lauder Cos. Inc. controlling about half of the professional hair care market, according to research firm Kline & Co., worries stylists. “We [Tigi] are a stand-alone company. We want to grow worldwide.”
At ISSE, Tigi introduced the brand Rockaholic, which Eliades described as aimed at stylists fluent in the language of MySpace for use on in-the-know clients, as well as themselves. Rockaholic’s first eight products include Livin’ the Dream sulfate-free shampoo for $15.95 retail, Rocktastic spray gel for $15.95, Punk Out molding gunk for $16.95 and Dirty Secret dry shampoo for $18.95.
Brands not owned by corporate giants touted their independence. “The cachet of working with salons peer to peer was ubiquitous when Paul Mitchell was here, and when [John] Sebastian [Cusenza] owned Sebastian. [That] has all dissipated into this huge corporate culture that doesn’t get it,” lamented Steve Goddard, president of Woodland Hills, Calif.-based Pravana.
Driven by hair color and its outreach to salons, Goddard said Pravana’s sales jumped 39 percent last year over the prior year. This year, he projected the company’s distribution network of roughly 12,000 salons would grow by 10,000 doors. The brand’s products have undergone a repackaging inspired by an hourglass-shaped bottle of grappa that Goddard picked up on a trip to Venice.
Joanne Choi, vice president of marketing and product development at Paramount, Calif.-based Iden, marketer of natural hair and scalp therapy products with the ingredient bee propolis, argued the diversion of some major professional brands makes smaller brands that aren’t diverted attractive. “If I carry Redken and my customer can get it for $2 less at Target, my customer will go to Target,” she said, speaking hypothetically as a salon owner.
ISSE attendees not only talked business, they sought education, deals and a glimpse at upcoming trends. Lee Rizzuto Jr., senior vice president of Conair Corp., detected “wave and curl” becoming “more apparent” in haircuts showcased by brands at ISSE.
Despite the move toward curl, ISSE booths with frizz remedies drew crowds. Beverly Hills company Bio Ionic unveiled KeraSmooth, a treatment priced at $50 for salons that takes 45 minutes and is formulated with keratin and white henna. “[Stylists] are excited about the fact that it competes with the Brazilian treatment, but at the same time is formaldehyde-free,” said Juliet Barbieri, marketing brand manager for Bio Ionic.
@chanel and @pharrell dropped what’s being dubbed as the world’s most exclusive sneakers yesterday. The Adidas Originals NMD Hu, which Williams designed in collaboration with Chanel and @adidasoriginals, has a waiting list of over 120K people who pre-registered online at chanelatcolette.fr –– and only 500 pairs are on sale. The singer predicted the resale value of the shoes could reach $40K. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdfashion (📷: Dominique Maître)
@imanshumpert is diving deeper into his creative endeavors and relaunching his clothing line, Post 90s, and is helping to raise money for the hurricane victims in St. Maarten with a jersey he’s designed with his brother. The Cleveland Cavaliers player talked to WWD about kneeling during the national anthem, working with fashion brands and how he wants to be more than an @nba player. Read the interview on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
Not only does #TheProfit return to CNBC tonight, but @marcuslemonis has launched @shopmarcus, a new shopping and lifestyle retail experience in Aspen and Chicago, with more locations to come. The retail stores offer in-store stylists and a variety of contemporary womenswear selections.
“It’s life, I’m going to face it,” @mingxi11 sighed. “I fell, but you know, I think the most important thing is that I get back up. I had the love, the help from my sister — the girl next to me Gizele [Oliveira] — she’s so nice. When I went backstage everybody was trying to comfort me like ‘Oh Ming, it’s OK.’ I’m really, really touched. I think it’s them who gave me the courage to go back on stage for the finale,” Xi told WWD of her fall at the @victoriassecret fashion show. (📷: David Fisher) #wwdfashion #vsfashionshow #victoriassecret
@louisvuitton tapped @therealpeterlindbergh for its latest city-centric photo book, which is part of a series called Fashion Eye. The primarily black and white book captures the spirit of Berlin in 57 images shot between 1989 and 2019. “Berlin is an inspiration for me, more than a city. I mean @millajovovich is simply Berlin!” said Lindbergh. #wwdfashion
“You know, I think audiences expect a certain performance so I have to deliver to them what they’re expecting to a certain degree. But I’m also a different actor and a different person, I have my own spin on the character,” says @noahegalvin of his takeover of the leading role in “Dear Evan Hansen” following the departure of @bensplatt, who originated the role. Read WWD’s interview with the 23-year-old actor on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
For pre-fall 2018, @etro created richly-colored wonderland, using tapestries, textiles and wallpapers from the Eastern world at large. The line featured floral and graphic prints and jacquard motifs, like this two-piece look featured here. #wwdfashion (📷: Giovanna Pavesi)
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)