PARIS — Discipline — Kérastase’s major launch in this, its 50th-anniversary year — is billed to be a revolutionary hair-taming line.
This story first appeared in the May 16, 2014 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
“It’s targeting a need which is really [global],” said Vincent Nida, general manager worldwide of the L’Oréal-owned label. “As Kérastase — the leading luxury professional hair-care brand — we have to bring a solution that would be nonaggressive, noninvasive, all about care and something that would work for a long time.”
The Walt Disney Studios approached L’Oréal years ago to help create lifelike hair movement for animated characters in “Rapunzel.” The French beauty giant invested in technology, and now its Move Hair machine allows for the minute study of hair in motion.
“It’s a revolution for us in the way we conceive a product,” said Nida, adding the result is formulation differing from anything on the market. “[It] really enables [the repair of hair], to tame and discipline it without making hair stiff and immobile.
“Hair movement is very much related to its beauty and quality,” he said.
According to Kérastase, while traditional at-home smoothing treatments can weigh hair down, make it look heavy and frizzy, and time-consuming in-salon “permanent treatments” may lead to artificial-looking hair, Discipline creates tame, natural-flowing tresses.
That’s purportedly thanks to ingredients such as Morpho-Keratine, a complex — involving glutamic acid, serine, arginine and wheat protein — that helps consolidate hair fibers, and Research Ceramide, a biomimetic ceramide, which works on hair’s surface to make it smoother and suppler.
Kérastase says Discipline’s results include hair that’s easier to blow-dry, “exceptional” shine, plus a 72-hour antifrizz, antihumidity action.
In salons, the three-step Discipline protocol — said to be the first for “long-lasting discipline with no chemical alteration” — takes 45 minutes.
Kérastase tapped Diana Vishneva, the prima ballerina of Russia’s Mariinsky Theater, to front Discipline.
“It came quite naturally because when we talk about the choreography of hair, ballet is probably the best expression of discipline and grace,” said Nida. “She really represents perfectly what we want to say — she has incredible discipline, is a super hard worker, very focused. At the same time she is beautiful and has amazing grace.”
Vishneva called working on the campaign “a beautiful experience. As an artist it’s also an interesting experience.”
Carolyn Carlson, with whom Vishneva had worked before, choreographed the 90-second digital video spot filmed by Benjamin Seroussi. The print ad will come in single pages.
In France, the Discipline retail line includes the 250-ml. Bain Fluidealiste for 19.50 euros, or $26.75 at current exchange; the 200-ml. Fondant Fluidealiste for 32 euros, or $43.90; the 200-ml. Maskeratine for 38 euros, or $52.10, and the 150-ml. Fluidissime for 25 euros, or $34.30.
Discipline will be launched in mid-May in Europe, followed by Asia between July and August, the U.S. on July 15 and South America in September.
L’Oréal executives declined to discuss projections, but industry sources estimate Discipline will generate 150 million euros, or $205.7 million, in first-year retail sales worldwide.
Meanwhile, Kérastase fetes its half-century in 2014.
“We still feel quite young,” said Nida, adding Kérastase’s priorities include remaining a pioneer of innovative product. There’s the service element, as well, and the aim “to help re-dynamise, modernize and make more exciting the whole salon world,” he continued.