The quest for big-yet-touchable waves is “the second-most-desired end result, after healthy hair,” said Reuben Carranza, director of P&G Salon Professional North America, according to a study conducted by the firm.
But volume, hair companies agreed, is one of the hardest things to achieve since there usually is a payoff for getting big, soft-looking styles, such as flaking and stiffness.
“One raw material commonly used in most volumizing products is PVP/VA, a holding resin, which is a glasslike material that glues hair into place, but it’s super brittle,” said Rob Robillard, chief executive officer of Living Proof. The industry, he said, needed to “find a material that could hold hair and have it look natural at the same time.”
Living Proof’s effort, Full Thickening Cream, is a styling aid that features Poly Beta Amino Ester-1, a new and patented material founded by Living Proof’s team of scientists that is based on technology from the research laboratories of Drs. Dan Anderson and Bob Langer at MIT, two of the founders of Living Proof. The polymer, which has never been used before, is flexible and durable, yet strong and elastic, and looks to provide volume throughout the day without a stiff feel, they said.
“It coats hair at thickening points to transform fine hair. The [formula] doesn’t break off and the hair is malleable,” said Langer, with Robillard interjecting that today’s volume styles are more about hair shape as seen from a profile view, as opposed to the hair root.
Only a “very small amount” of Full Thickening Cream is needed for efficacy, explained Robillard. The cream is applied just beyond the roots with the user working it down toward hair ends. Full, which industry sources said could generate as much as $20 million in first year sales, will sell for $24 at Sephora and on QVC and the brand’s Web site.
P&G Salon Professional’s unit has harnessed what it contends to be “new-to-the world technology” to bow its new volume range, Sebastian’s Volupt, which is formulated so that hair can achieve 75 percent more fullness versus untreated hair, without the usual payoffs. The range, which includes a shampoo, conditioner and a hair spray, uses cushion-particle technology, said P&G’s Carranza, and merges different elements and adds two new polymers — sipernate and Microthene.
Dr. Steve Shiel, director of P&G Global Beauty Care Scientific Communications, explained that “the sipernate polymer is silica based and causes roughness and friction on the hair strand, while the Microthene polymer, which is used in skin care, is used to get a smooth surface.”
Sebastian, which underwent a transformation 18 months ago and bases new launches on feedback from 10,000 hairdressers and consumers, is positioning Volupt as its biggest and most relevant pillar to date.
“The technology is very important in this product….There has never been a shampoo or conditioner on the market that has been able to deliver volume and softness,” said Carranza.
To promote Volupt, Sebastian is turning to aerialist Rose Mallare, who performs in the Manhattan show “Fuerta Bruza.” Mallare joins designer Charlotte Ronson, who appeared in ads for Sebastian’s Trilliant styling item, as a spokesperson. Volupt, which is priced from $13.95 for a shampoo to $19.95 for the spray gel, is slated to enter 10,000 salons in February and could generate $35 million in first-year sales, according to market sources.
Redken, too, is addressing volume, as the L’Oréal-owned brand found that 42 percent of women in the U.S. believe their hair lacks body. But its new range looks to provide women with twice the volume without a heavy science edge. Instead, the brand is turning to nature for inspiration and has created Nonstop Volume Complex, which contains wheat protein for fullness and lift, soy protein for strengthening support and cotton extract for lightweight detangling. Designed to target fine and flat hair, the items are said to deliver up to 37 percent more volume at the root and last for as long as 24 hours.
Body Full includes a shampoo, lightweight conditioner, volume amplifier and instant bodifier, and several items offer multibenefits, something Patricia Engle, director of U.S. marketing, hair care, said is key, given the current economic times. “Amplifier, one of the products in the Body Full line, is a leave-in spray that can target volume at the roots or also serve as a lightweight refresher between shampoos.” Body Full, she continued, is meant to be used with Redken’s existing line of volume stylers, including the newest, Aerate 08, which fuses volumizing benefits and conditioning properties. Body Full sells from $13 for the shampoo to $16 for the Amplifier and is estimated to generate about $20 million in first-year sales.
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews
“Stranger Things” is getting a new cast member for season 2. Meet @sadiesink_, the 15-year-old who will be joining the Netflix series for its new season. You may recognize her from “The Glass Castle” with Brie Larson and Woody Harrelson, but the Texas native’s next role goes in an entirely different direction. She describes her character, Max, as “a rough and tumble skater girl [who] becomes friends with the boys at school.” The second season debuts on October 27. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdeye
Amid the Harvey Weinstein controversy, there’s another sector that’s being put under the spotlight for sexual abuse: the modeling industry. While rumors about abuse and sexual harassment of female and male models — and the photographers, agents and others who perpetrated it — have circulated within the fashion world for years, model @cameronrussell started posting stories from models on Instagram last week about abusive situations they’ve encountered — from sexual harassment and molestation to attempted rape. Over 75 have weighed in so far. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews
To celebrate its 16th anniversary, @dylanscandybar tapped designers and celebrities to create mosaics out of candy. The mosaics will be auctioned off to support the philanthropic cause of each participant’s choice. Pictured here is the mural created by @aliceandolivia's Stacey Bendet. For a first look at some of the other artwork being unveiled tonight, go to WWD.com. #wwdeye
The annual Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic in Pacific Palisades this weekend drew Kate Hudson, Tracee Ellis Ross, Laura Dern and more. See pictures of the star-studded event on WWD.com. (📷: @chelsealaurenla) #wwdeye
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye