BERLIN — Wella Professionals’ new hair dye formula, called Illumina Color, is stepping into the limelight.
The Procter & Gamble salon hair care brand is being trumpeted as the biggest color innovation of the last 20 years. Inspired by luminosity of natural light on hair, Illumina is designed to deliver multitonal, natural-looking shades while minimizing damage to hair and providing 100 percent gray coverage. Five years in development, the new line will be launched in the U.S. in January, following its roll out in the U.K. and Western Europe.
Illumina’s range of 20 cool-toned colors was developed to lighten up to three levels, but has some limitations. The darkest hair shades, including deep blacks (think Liza Minnelli or Dita Von Teese) are not served by Illumina, but better met with the brand’s Koleston. Wella says the Illumina color portfolio will be expanded, but tones will stay in the natural zone. Additionally, the company says its Illumina colors are also suited to men, due to the subtle nuances of the product’s colors.
Illumina also bucks the trend for ammonia-free hair color, which was sparked by L’Oréal’s Inoa, launched in 2009, and has trickled down into the consumer home coloring market.
“We have not seen in the lab a product that works better than ammonia,” said Maria Castan, science specialist for P&G’s Salon Professionals division. “If we have a better product, we’ll launch it.”
Instead, enemy number one is copper, which Castan says is found in water pipes all over the world, from Berlin to Buenos Aires. As a side effect of washing, tiny particles of copper residue adhere to the hair’s outer layer, the cuticle. During coloring, these copper particles bond with ingredients in the dye, damaging the cuticle and leaving a rough surface that doesn’t reflect as much light. Wella says Illumina color includes special micro-particles that surround the copper and keep damage at bay. Healthier hair is shinier, more transparent, and more reflective, explains Castan. “We are trying to create light with the color,” she says, noting the very specific inspiration was morning light in Los Angeles at 9 a.m., and how it makes hair gleam.
Wella suggests that stylists price Illumina treatments about 20 percent higher than their classic color services. The company hopes that Illumina scores a name-brand recognition. To this end, Wella is offering salons a variety of extended advertising and marketing tools in the hopes of helping their clients see the light about Illumina. The company’s faith in the demand for the product is illustrated by its suggestion to salons that Illumina treatments should be priced 20 percent higher than standard color services.
As a brand, Wella generates an estimated $1 billion a year in sales, including the consumer and salon hair care and coloring products. Illumina could give the salon unit a positive boost. According to P&G’s recently released first-quarter figures, Wella innovations helped increase organic sales year-on-year in the salon professional business.
Supermodel @helenachristensen teamed up with longtime friend and designer @camillastaerk on a joint @paredeyewear collaboration. The lineup features three styles and 11 offerings, all of which embody a vintage feel. Get all the details on how they celebrated the collab on WWD.com. #wwdaccessories #wwdeye (📷: @slovekinpics)
“It’s a hard industry to keep motivated, as well, so finding different subjects and people is what makes it worth it – when you’re like, oh, I’ve met great people, I feel like I’ve done something good, and I feel proud of having done this,” said French actress Stacy Martin on being grateful for the variety of roles she’s take on. Read @ktauer’s full interview with Martin on her her latest film “Godard Mon Amour.” #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)
After showing in front of the Eiffel Tower for his last two women’s ready-to-wear collection, it looks like @anthonyvaccarello may be heading to the Big Apple. Sources say the designer will stage his next @ysl show in NYC on June 6. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
EXCLUSIVE: Two and half months after John Targon, cofounder and codesigner of Baja East, was hired as creative director of the contemporary division at Marc Jacobs, he has left the company, WWD has learned. Marc Jacobs International, which is owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, confirmed Targon’s departure in a statement: “John Targon is a talented designer and we appreciate the work he has done here. Ultimately working together did not make sense for the brand and we wish him the best.” Read the story by @jessiredale, link in bio. #wwdnews
@theluxurycollection is officially launching a collection, tapping Sofia Sanchez de Betak for the capsule. Over 30 styles will be featured in the Chufy x The Luxury Collection, debuting next month at Bergdorf Goodman, The Webster, FiveStory and more. De Betak, known as “@chufy,” drew inspiration for the collection from her trips to Japan in the past year #wwdfashion
@lhd, founder and CEO of @thewebster, has teamed up with @lebonmarcherivegauche for the European launch of her ready-to-wear line, LHD. The launch will come with an exclusive pop-up opening today that’s set to run through May 20. Located on the second floor, it carries her debut Miami-themed resort collection, launched in November as see-now-buy-now. #wwdfashion