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Jane Digs Deep Into Natural With AguaCeuticals

Industry sources estimate AguaCeuticals natural makeup could add $20 million in retail sales to Jane?s portfolio in one year.

NEW YORK — Jane & Company has deemed its Be Pure Mineral collection a smash hit. Now the cosmetics company hopes to repeat its success with an extension to the line, called AguaCeuticals, that features active natural ingredients.

This story first appeared in the October 10, 2008 issue of WWD.  Subscribe Today.

There’s a rush of natural and organic cosmetics lines coming into the mass market. But Lisa Yarnell, chief executive officer of Jane, believes her line stands out because of its price points and use of hydrating ingredients in the formula.

Industry sources estimate AguaCeuticals could add $20 million in retail sales to Jane’s portfolio in one year.

The use of moisturizing ingredients combined with certified organics goes way beyond a natural positioning, said Yarnell. “This isn’t just about tree huggers. This is about water and hydration and at a price everyone feels is worth a try,” Yarnell explained. “It is for tree huggers and regular Jane hockey moms.”

She agreed there is much confusion in the market about what is and what is not natural or organic. Marketers are scurrying to be blessed with seals or proof that their ingredients are natural. But Yarnell said AguaCeuticals’ message stretched beyond the natural positioning to be effective. “What customers really want to see is results,” she said. To that end, there are some products that are not 100 percent organic such as mascaras and facial products where the company thought it was crucial to have SPF 30.

The majority of AguaCeuticals’ formulas are composed of active natural and certified organic ingredients, including white and green tea, olive oil, aloe and lemon balm, as well as a comfrey complex designed to hydrate and moisturize skin and reduce the appearance of fine lines.

The exterior packaging also reflects a green positioning and each card notes what percent comprises post-consumer recyclable materials. Ninety percent of AguaCeuticals packaging is 100 percent recyclable or made with post-consumer recycled materials, according to the company.

Jane’s entry will come onto the market in December with three launch prepacks featuring tinted moisturizers, bronzers, blushers and mousse eye shadows. The full 51-stockkeeping unit program will roll out for spring planograms with a goal of securing 1 foot of space next to Be Pure Mineral. The lineup includes Sheer Tinted Moisturizers, AguaGlow Bronzer, AguaMousse Eye Shadow, Cooling Eyestix, Agua Blushstix, Agua Lipstix and Natural Mascara with Natural Olive Oil and Pro-Vitamin B. Prices range from $5 to $8.

There will be print advertising and special newspaper coupon inserts touting AguaCeuticals debuting in March. In-store activity will include wing racks composed of recycled materials.

Much new product activity at mass is centered around natural cosmetics entries. First to market was Physicians Formula with OrganicWear, followed by Natural Beauty by Carmindy and Almay’s Pure Blends, to name a few. Natural has become the next step after minerals which helped lure shoppers from department and specialty stores to mass. Jane’s Be Pure is the number-one mineral brand in the mass channel based on equivalized point per distribution basis, according to ACNielsen data provided by Jane.

Under the guidance of Yarnell, Jane has been steadily redeveloping its distribution to national levels, which had diminished prior to the sale of the line from the Estée Lauder Cos. The company is in about 15,000 doors versus only about 4,000 in 2004 when the brand was divested by Lauder. As an added benefit, research has revealed that Jane is gathering a big following with Hispanic consumers — a growing national market segment. Concluded Yarnell, “Consumers are very smart and immediately recognize great quality and value. That is why Jane is trending up 20 percent same-store sales every quarter.”