Russia Rising

During the dark days of Communism, three Soviet companies were the sole marketers of beauty products. Those days are long gone, as a historical affinity for...

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Beauty Inc issue 05/09/2008

During the dark days of Communism, three Soviet companies were the sole marketers of beauty products. Those days are long gone, as a historical affinity for luxury and glamour combined with a rapidly rising middle class put Russia squarely in beauty’s spotlight.

This story first appeared in the May 9, 2008 issue of WWD.  Subscribe Today.

Russia, with a landmass almost twice the size of the U.S., has always been a country that ignites the imagination.

Now, thanks to an ever-increasing middle class population that’s got money to burn, the fantasy is becoming a reality. And it’s a reality promising enough to make the growth in China, India and other emerging nations seem almost stagnant in comparison.

“Russia is now. Not the future,” says Chris Good, general manager, Russia and CIS, or Central Independent States, for the Estée Lauder Cos. “When Russia is lumped with BRIC,” he continues, referring to the acronym for Brazil, Russia, India and China, “it’s not necessarily an accurate description.”

“Russia is developing very rapidly,” agrees Wahan Gasparian, general manager of Douglas. “If in the West a phase of development took 10 to 15 years, that happens here within three to five years. We are catching up very quickly on the Western market. And, in certain instances, we’re even ahead.”

Consider the figures: Over the past decade, Russia’s fragrance and cosmetics business has expanded by a tremendous 90 percent in dollar terms. (In rubles, it increased 463 percent.) Last year alone, the $10.55 billion industry gained 13 percent. Between 2008 and 2012, it’s expected to grow at a constant average rate of 4 percent yearly, according to Euromonitor.

Driving down Moscow’s central boulevards at breakneck speed, it’s impossible to keep a tab on how many perfumeries—L’Etoile, Arbat Prestige, Douglas—whiz by, not to mention the futuristic megamalls and single-branded beauty stores that have sprung up in only a handful of years.

The country’s vibrancy is palpable everywhere, from its swiftly rising middle class to the Moscow skyline itself. From the window of Good’s office in the Paveletskaya district spreads a sweeping vista, a visual embodiment of his words. A modern opera house stands in the foreground, an old-style church, its blue and gilded onion domes glistening against the sky, features in the background, as do two factory smokestacks.

At street level, shiny new Mercedes, BMWs and Hummers zip about the avenues, jockeying for position with rickety trams and domestically made Ladas and Volgas.

Step into the spanking-new Europa mall and find freestanding stores for MAC, The Body Shop and Lush, plus perfumeries, a pharmacy and a supermarket, all selling beauty. Here, shoppers—well-groomed women in full makeup, wafting fragrance behind them—run the gamut from teenagers to oldsters. They’re living evidence that the typical Russian woman wouldn’t dream of leaving the house without top-to-toe beautifying.

This all contrasts sharply with a mere decade ago, when money was so scarce following the country’s economic crash that daily life was a scramble and only a precious few could think of buying a beauty product with a foreign label. Stores were more likely to be ramshackle roadside kiosks or open-air markets, while beauty choices were mainly limited to a broad selection of parallel-market and me-too goods. (Think fragrances with names such as Forengeit and J’Aime.) Today, a well-developed beauty retail channel exists—in fact, a new perfumery opened every three days somewhere in the country until very recently, according to Coty.

The swift rise of a middle class eager to spend means that there are shoppers to fill those stores. According to Symrise, 44 percent of Russia’s 141.4 million-strong population is potentially a luxury-goods consumer, representing 14 percent of the European beauty market. And financially speaking, Russia has lost no time in accruing wealth in less than two decades following the Soviet Union’s collapse. Russia today boasts 87 billionaires, taking—for the first time—the number-two spot behind the U.S. with combined wealth of $471 billion, according to the most recent Forbes’ World Billionaires list. (Sixteen percent of the 226 newcomers to the list hail from Russia.)

Moreover, deep-pocketed consumers aren’t simply in the major cities anymore. “One common perception is that Russia is just Moscow-centric, it’s oligarchs and that’s where the disposable income lies,” says Good. “But the trickle-down effect has been enormous, and there’s a very large emerging middle class. These are our new consumers.”

These new consumers not only have money, they have an existing affinity for beauty products. Ninety-three percent of all women in Russia wear lipstick and 92 percent, fragrance. Eighty-six percent use facial moisturizer and 55 percent, hair colorant, according to Alex Nasard, Procter & Gamble’s general manager for personal care for Central Eastern Europe, Middle East and Africa.

Be it class or mass (whose sales split is estimated by Euromonitor at 11 percent versus 89 percent, respectively), beauty is an integral part of a Russian woman’s daily life. Russian women boast one of the highest spends on beauty products in the world versus their income, says Nasard. And their beauty regimens, which include from three to six steps per day, are among the most elaborate anywhere.

“It’s not strange to go into the bathroom of a 65-square-meter [about 722-square-foot] Soviet heritage apartment and find three to five bottles of shampoo, a couple of bottles of conditioner, a hair colorant and possibly a bottle of Hugo Boss perfume,” says Nasard, noting that Russian woman are hungry for product knowledge. They read every word of text appearing on product packaging and listen closely to advertisements. “Russian women are very invested in the category,” he says, “and very interested in it.”



The Russian Way

Whether they live in Smolensk or Okhotsk or somewhere in between, Russian women share one trait in common: The adoration of luxury, it seems, is in their DNA.

“When you look at the country’s history, the expression of power has always been through luxury,” says Jacques Mantz, LVMH perfumes and cosmetics general manager, CIS, citing as examples the Winter Palace in St. Petersburg and the rich furs worn by tribal chiefs in Siberia.

“The market craves luxury,” agrees Gasparian. “If you have the doors and the competence for selling, for trying to bring that luxury to the customer, then you are very successful in what you are doing.”

It’s not just a hunger for classical luxury. The stock-standard Chanel, Dior or Yves Saint Laurent are not enough—although such status-affirming brands are very popular. Unlike in other developing countries, high-end European and American niche brands are increasingly à la mode here. “People are getting fed up with what everyone has easy access to,” says Gasparian. “That’s the secret behind why exclusive brands are so successful,” he continues, noting that niche scents like Clive Christian, Miller Harris and Acqua di Parma generate 10 percent of Douglas’ overall business.

“It’s like back in the old days during the Soviet times,” Gasparian continues, referring to the long waiting lists for such products created by the high level of demand. “They love it because it’s exclusive. They can have it and no one else can.”

“Russians want the newest thing, especially something they can’t get anyplace else,” agrees Peggy Elsrode, regional vice president for North Europe at Coty Prestige. “There’s a real perception of value if something is very limited and someone gets the first of something.”

Elsrode says the Russian consumer is “all about what’s hot today and even knows brands on the cusp of emerging.” Cases in point, she says, are recently introduced names such as Marc Jacobs and Chloé.

Hand in hand with luxury goes the desire for glamour. Russian women are not afraid of expressing their femininity. “They are extremely open and thirsty for anything that is going to make them stand out and build a little bit more on how different they are, how exceptional they are, how beautiful they are,” says Mantz.

Notions of what’s glamorous—and what’s not—are continually evolving. Whereas the country’s nouveau riche of yesteryear went for a blinding bling factor, today they’re starting to tone it down more. International Flavors & Fragrance’s global director of consumer insights, Lana Glazman, calls it the “antiglamour” trend, explaining that in the past a woman might have dressed in head-to-toe Chanel with the logo apparent everywhere, whereas today the same person might wear another up-and-coming designer’s jeans with a Chanel jacket, but nary a label to be seen. “It’s less in-your-face,” she says. “They’re still looking for aristocratic chic, though. Appearance is key.”

“People in the streets look different every six months,” continues fragrance marketer Frédéric Malle. “They aren’t blasé; people still have great expectations as far as beauty and fragrance are concerned. Whatever is truly luxurious wins.”

In terms of educating themselves on the latest labels and looks, fashion magazines have become an increasingly important source of information for consumers. After years of Communism, when no such publications were available, Vogue, Glamour, Marie-Claire, GQ, L’Officiel and Cosmopolitan now have thriving circulations. “Russians read all of the time,” says LVMH’s Mantz. “They are extremely knowledgeable.”

That level of interest extends beyond Moscow and St. Petersburg, currently the two largest markets in the country: Russians everywhere, even in the provinces, are actively broadening their horizons through other international media, such as MTV and the Internet, and by stepping up their rate of travel. “It’s not just what they’re learning within Russia; it’s what they’re experiencing abroad, in places like Dubai, Paris and London,” says Lauder’s Good. “They’re getting to experience other brands and are coming back to Russia requesting these same products.”



The Beauty Scene

The plethora of beauty items available on Russian soil these days must make old timers’ heads spin. Decades of Communist rule brought strict governmental regulations. By and large, Soviets could only buy fragrances and cosmetics produced by a troika of manufacturers, including Novaya Zarya in Moscow, Severnoye Siyanie in St. Petersburg and Dzintars in Riga. After glasnost in 1986, the beauty business built up little by little, only to be decimated again in 1998 with a full-blown economic crisis, giving local mass market manufacturers such as Kalina and Faberlic a huge advantage over the international competition.

Today, multinational giants rule the Russian roost. The top five companies overall last year by sales, taking into account mass and class, according to Euromonitor, were P&G, with 15 percent market share; Avon, with 7.9 percent; L’Oréal, with 7.8 percent; Henkel, with 5.8 percent, and Oriflame, with 5.2 percent.

Among the local players, Kalina takes ninth position and Faberlic, 11th. These are followed by LVMH, at 13; Coty, at 17; Chanel, at 18, and the Estée Lauder Cos., which came in at 23.

In terms of categories, fragrance generated about 20 percent of the overall business; hair care, 19 percent; skin care, 17 percent, and color cosmetics, 13 percent. Fastest-growing categories, according to Euromonitor, were depilatories, with 28 percent, and sun care, 23 percent. Skin care revenues rose 19 percent and men’s grooming products by approximately 17 percent.

In terms of product preferences, Russian women have very pronounced tastes. When it comes to fragrance, for example, they’re fickle—and fanatical. The commonly held belief that cloying, oriental notes are popular is pure fallacy. Sixty-eight percent of the 30 best-selling women’s fine fragrances in Russia in 2007 were florals. “Everything centers around florals, especially fruity florals,” says Symrise’s Marie Drevet, senior marketing manager for fragrance, who adds that other favorites are fresh, natural, fruity, sparkly and luminescent notes. L’Eau Par Kenzo, Be Delicious DKNY and Light Blue from Dolce & Gabbana are all bestsellers. “Florientals and orientals don’t work in this market,” she says.

Brand loyalty is virtually nonexistent. Says Clarins’ general director, Valeria Kossenko, 60 percent of Russians use numerous scents at once and might even finish only a half or a third of a bottle before moving on to a new fragrance. Such zapping causes the country’s top 10 to differ widely from one month to the next.

“There are some bestsellers, like Chanel Chance, Dior’s J’Adore and Very Irresistible Givenchy, but at the same time, you’ll find some new names,” says Irina Arbuzova, Givaudan’s account manager for Russia, CIS and Baltic States, who cites Kenneth Cole and Viktor & Rolf among the fragrance names gaining popularity.

While Chanel’s Coco Mademoiselle is generally in the top five, Chanel No.5, the worldwide perennial favorite, figures only in Russia’s top 10. Aldehydic fragrances can conjure up memories of Soviet times and are, hence, extremely unpopular; products selling strongly of rose aren’t well-received, either, for the same reason.

Even classic notes with a modern twist don’t tend to do well in Russia. However, orange flower, found in the locally marketed scent Red Moscow, created by Novaya Zarya, is very popular. There’s also been a broader acceptance of gourmand notes—as in Cacharel’s Amour Amour and Miss Dior Chérie—versus in the past, when “sweet” notes were equated with cheapness. Modern chypres are strong sellers, as well.

Though not yet as established as they are in the West, celebrity and designer fragrances are gaining an increasing foothold. International names, such as Christian Lacroix, Antonio Banderas and Jennifer Lopez, are reportedly doing well. And in the absence of a Hollywood to call its own, Russia is forming a homegrown celebrity class. Socialites Ksenya Sobchak and Oxana Robsky, for example, launched two versions of their scent, called (in translation) Marry a Millionaire. Politician Vladimir Jirinovski, meantime, reportedly had fragrances created in his name that are distributed to members of his party. And Russian designer Valentin Yudashkin came out with a signature lipstick and purse with Oriflame.

As governments around the globe pass regulations impacting the fragrance trade, so, too, has Russia’s. One, referred to as the alcoholic law, was enacted in mid-2007, purportedly to curtail heavy drinking countrywide. Any company whose goods contain ethyl alcohol—including fragrance and cosmetics makers and sellers—are obliged to purchase a license and also to declare the ethyl alcohol content level drop by drop. Beauty executives say that for a few months, while wading through the procedure, their imports to Russia were drastically slowed. Today there’s little impact on prestige fragrance manufacturers. However, mass market sellers have been harder hit. “A lot of small kiosks, small perfumery shops disappeared because they were not able to pay for the license,” says Arbuzova.

When it comes to skin care, the Russian consumer has become uberdemanding. After using traditional concoctions made up of ingredients such as honey, wild strawberries, egg yolk, sour cream, yogurt and cucumber that they mixed at home, women are spending ever-increasing sums on treatment products and demanding a quick fix. Leading brands include Avon, L’Oréal, Nivea and Kalina. “If after 15 days of using a treatment they don’t see any results, they’ll stop using a product,” says Philippe Tarassoff, managing director of L’Oréal’s luxury products division in Russia.

It’s not just mature women shelling out big bucks. Antiaging creams are used by women as young as 25, says Euromonitor’s research analyst, Tatiana Gadetskaya. That’s also reportedly the age that some women start having plastic surgery. “Young ladies here are mature at 16 years old,” says Tarassoff. “Our main target is around 25 to 29.”

Russian women also have a penchant for body creams, especially slimmers, as well as eye creams and hand creams. “When it’s minus-thirty [degrees] in the winter, minus-forty in Siberia, it’s important to protect hands—and faces, too,” says Chanel’s general manager for Russia, Pascal Hyafil.

LVMH’s Mantz believes skin care represents the most promising driver for the premium Russian beauty market looking forward.

“This was the last part of the market to develop, because of the purchasing power factor,” he says. “Selective skin care is not the first product you buy. This segment of the market has been developing very, very quickly in the last few years. It’s the part of the market that has the most growth potential for the future.”

Color, too, is thriving. Among the best-selling color cosmetics brands in Russia are Avon, which in 2007 had 17 percent market share; L’Oréal, 13 percent, and Oriflame, 13 percent, according to Euromonitor. Executives say that as an increasing number of consumers enter the prestige beauty segment, makeup—particularly lipstick or mascara—is generally their first purchase, due to it making a bold statement on the status front at relatively reasonable price points.

“Makeup has always been one of the most important categories in Russia,” says Avon’s  marketing manager Natalia Eromchik. “[Women here] all say in focus groups that even if I’m going to buy bread, or I’m going to go out for a second, I need to put on my makeup, wear perfume.”

Unlike in the past, when Russian women migrated toward bold colors, such as red and fuchsia (“always a nightclub look”), they’re opting more for natural, discreet shades, such as earthier, more transparent tones, says IFF’s Glazman. The increased use of lip gloss is part of this trend. Acccording to one executive, lip gloss sales have even started to outpace lipsticks’ revenues.



Retail Revolution

Newbies they might be, but high-end Russian perfumeries have, in many senses, already come of age. Although each one has a slightly different positioning from the next—Arbat’s mix is divided pretty evenly between prestige and mass market products; L’Etoile’s breakdown is 80 percent versus 20 percent; Ile de Beauté’s, 75 percent versus 25 percent; Rive Gauche’s, 60 percent versus 40 percent, and Douglas’, 97 percent versus 3 percent, according to estimates—they generally have numerous strengths in common. Most importantly, they’re well-organized and squeaky clean with a high level of customer service and a wide product selection.
Walk into the massive Arbat Prestige location on Kutuzovsky Prospekt, for instance, and the selection is just mind-boggling. Brands on the well-stocked shelves include Kanebo, Darphin, Decléor, Caudalie, Yves Saint Laurent, Chanel, Helena Rubinstein, Nina Ricci, Artdeco, Jacques Bogart, Pupa and Lancôme. Among the podiums is one for Tommy Hilfiger, another for Sean Jean. Sales associates rustle down the spotless aisles, quick to proffer their services.

Ditto at Douglas in the Europa mall. Here, Maybelline, Clarins, Clinique and Frédéric Fekkai share space with L’Occitane, Lise Watier and Collistar, and even offbeat brands like Rouge Bunny Rouge.

According to market projections, in 2006, department stores accounted for 29 percent of Russia’s beauty sales; specialized retail chains, 24.1 percent; direct sellers, 21.5 percent; open markets, 14.2 percent; supermarkets, 8.3 percent, and pharmacies, 2.9 percent.

In general, multinational retailers entering the market team up with local players. That’s the case with Sephora, which partnered in 2003 with L’Etoile. Today it has approximately 615 doors. Douglas merged with Rivoli in 2003 and has 24 doors. Ile de Beauté has 96 doors; Rive Gauche, an estimated 65 doors, and Arbat Prestige, an estimated 62. There are also about 81 independent perfumeries.

As large as the numbers are, there’s room for more. Countrywide, there are about 13 cities with over one million inhabitants, and among those, each has no more than an average of 30 perfumeries and drugstores, according to LVMH’s Mantz, who adds that in Moscow, there are probably not more than 200 beauty sales points. (Billed to be the world’s most expensive city, rent in one of Moscow’s prime shopping locations can cost $4,500 per square meter a month.)

Cities of 250,000 to 500,000 people generally have no more than six or seven perfumeries, and, for the most part, there’s typically one perfumery for every two cities with 100,000 to 250,000 inhabitants in Russia. “The retail network is adding probably 200 doors every year,” Mantz says. “The internal growth is also in the double digits for a large number of those points of sale.”

There’s dynamism in the department stores—like Tsum and Articoli—as well. Whereas Tsum tends to have a more high-end bent and sells products on a per-category basis, Articoli generally has a more traditional strategy for retailing.

Tsum, in Moscow, was opened in 1922 and has gone through numerous iterations. It is now considered by many to be the most luxurious department store and has a VIP list including Russian celebrities—singers, socialites and even the new president’s wife. Its 16,666-square-foot beauty department was renovated four years ago, but there have been numerous changes since. This year, for example, the retailer will unveil an organic cosmetology area, with brands from Germany, France and New Zealand, among others.

Sergey Nesterchuk, chief of Tsum’s beauty department, says he wants to sell only what he considers to be the best brands. Therefore, to make room for the newest and the greatest, in terms of technology and design—among other criteria—the retailer replaces about 15 percent of its selection yearly.

Skin care generates 42 percent of sales at Tsum, where, along with a wide selection of brands are treatment cabins, some of which give services free of charge to clients. Here, people can pick a particular brand’s products for use in the treatment. Clients can also bring along their own products. Fragrance accounts for 36 percent of sales and makeup, 15 percent.

Direct sell also has a very strong foothold in Russia. Whereas in 2001 only 29 percent of Russian women were purchasing through the direct-sales channel in general, in 2007, that figure hit 69 percent. “Culturally, people like to socialize with others, interact with others,” says Oriflame’s regional director, CIS and Baltic, Johan Rosenberg. “You have a fairly big personal network, and that’s traditional as well, since the Soviet days and before that.”

Avon this year is celebrating its 15th anniversary in Russia, where it has produced upper-mass beauty products locally since 2004. The company has registered sales growth in the high teens, according to Eromchik, and its catalogues are published in three-week cycles.

For the Swedish firm Oriflame, which started up operations in Russia in 1992, the country now represents 57 percent of its overall sales. “Russia is the single biggest market in the world for Oriflame,” says Rosenberg, noting revenues in the region grew around 30 percent last year.

Of the vertical retailers,  Yves Rocher is among the strongest. It opened its first boutique in Russia in 1991 and now has about 170 stores—a mix of wholly owned and franchised, including more than 40 stores in Moscow and 11 in St. Petersburg. Yves Rocher’s catalogue business launched about six years ago and now generates approximately half of its sales, while about 3 to 4 percent of revenue is rung up through an e-tail site, according to Bruno Leproux, managing director for Russia.



What Lies Ahead

Executives say the beauty market in Russia remains largely untapped. The vast country, spanning 11 time zones, encompasses many different markets. Even though Moscow and St. Petersburg generate most of the prestige beauty sales (for Clarins, for instance, they represent 55 percent of the company’s overall business), the provinces, already accounting for about 80 percent of mass market brands’ revenue, are developing fast. Of note are Ekaterinaburg, Kazan, Rostov, Samar and Novossibirsk, all considered on the verge.

“What’s very important now are the regions,” says IFF’s Glazman. “It is also very important to look at the younger generation—there’s a very big gap between them and the older consumer.”

Still, barriers to growth exist. When it comes to business, the Russian government can be notoriously interventionist. This January, Vladimir Nekrasov, owner of Arbat, among the country’s leading perfumery chains, was placed under arrest, reportedly for large-scale tax evasion, and has been in prison ever since. Should Arbat have to be closed down, it could have a resounding negative impact on Russia’s beauty trade.

Executives say that logistics can be difficult in Russia, where roads aren’t always in tip-top shape. There’s also companies’ need to keep apace with salary increases. As employee demand currently outpaces supply, candidates can—and do—ask for higher wages.

Despite such challenges, executives remain bullish on the Russian business, and financially speaking the outlook is rosy, too. “From a macroeconomic standpoint, Russia’s an extremely stable market,” says Lauder’s Good. “It’s probably got the best macroeconomic indicators of any market in Europe, and it bodes very well for the future.”

Russia By the Numbers

Size: 6.59 million square miles (17.075 million square kilometers)

Population: 141.4 million (est. from July 2007)

Population below the poverty line: 15.8 percent (November 2007)

Currency: Russian ruble

Exchange rate per U.S. dollar: 25.659 (2007)

Median age: 38.2 years

Men: 35 years

Women: 41.3 years (2007 est.)

Life expectancy: 65.87 years

Men: 59.12 years

Women: 73.03 years (2007 est.)

Literacy: 99.4 percent (based on 2002 census)

National Holiday: Russia Day, June 12

GDP: $2.076 trillion (purchasing power parity, 2007 est.)

GDP: 8.1 percent (real growth rate, 2007 est.)

GDP: $14,600 (per capita, 2007 est.)

Exports: $365 billion (2007 est.)

Export partners:

Netherlands 12.3 percent

Italy 8.6 percent

Germany 8.4 percent

China 5.4 percent

Ukraine 5.1 percent (2006)

Imports: $260.4 billion (2007 est.)

Import partners:

Germany 13.9 percent

China 9.7 percent

Ukraine 7 percent

Japan 5.9 percent

South Korea 5.1 percent (2006)

Internet users: 25.689 million (2006)

Source: Central Intelligence Agency


The Men’s Market 

The country’s men’s market, estimated to generate about 10 percent of Russia’s overall beauty business, continues to flex its muscles.

“It’s one of the most dynamic segments in the market,” says Clarins’ general director Valeria Kossenko, who explains part of what’s driving the business is the importance of appearance in the workplace.

Guys are self-purchasing beauty products marketed to men—rather than as in the past, where women picked and chose items marketed for them. “The term ‘metrosexual’ isn’t really offensive to men here,” says Euromonitor’s Tatiana Gadetskaya, who adds sales from premium men’s beauty products are growing much faster than revenues from mass men’s beauty goods. “And some men go to nail salons now,” she says.

One entrepreneurial venture to cash in on Russian men’s increased interest in beauty is Express Manicure, whose corners are reportedly more than 50 percent frequented by guys. “Here, it’s very anonymous. You sit down and it is very cheap, it’s 600 rubles [about $25 at current exchange], and within 15 to 20 minutes, while your wife is shopping somewhere, you get your nails done. You look tidy, you look good. And men do love looking good,” says one executive.

Men seem to be more interested in skin care, too. Says Lauder’s Chris Good, “Anecdotally, one of the things we’re seeing here, that we’re hearing from our consultants, is couples coming into the store and wanting advice for him and for her.” That’s born out in sales figures. Tsum’s men’s beauty business has been so strong that the area devoted to the category grew from 266 square feet to 1,110 square feet. “Thirty percent of our sales are made by men’s lines,” says Tsum’s Sergey Nesterchuk.

Meet the Influencers


Russia’s beauty editors are among the most influential voices when it comes to advising women on what to buy. Here, two top editors reveal their look-good, feel-good philosophies and the products they can’t live without.

Daria Kuznetsova, Glamour

Circulation: 700,000

Beauty Philosophy: Details, it’s all in the details. Beauty is my biggest passion as well as my profession. I’m no less eager to try every product on myself than tell the readers about it. I have a million products in my bathroom. I’m the one thinking only about testing a new sun lotion when everyone else is playing beach volleyball. It’s increasingly difficult to write about novelties in the beauty industry; the formulas have become more and more complex, and thus it’s more interesting, thanks to the cooperation of cosmetics manufacturers with scientists. Therefore, my main task is to understand it all myself and only then give recommendations to our readers.

Must-Have Product: MoltoBene Bene Salon Work Care Treatment intensive moisturizing mask for dry hair. My hair is dry with a tendency to frizz, so I always test new moisturizing and smoothing products. After this mask, you don’t need to use styling products.

Svetlana Chesnovitskaya, Vogue

Circulation: 150,000

Beauty Philosophy:
Our beauty is made of thousands of different elements—our face and body, our behavior and sense of humor, our style and intelligence. Beauty products and treatments, which are now so sophisticated, may help us to maintain our beauty, but they won’t make us forever young or looking like Angelina Jolie. We should learn to know how beautiful we are and not forget this whatever happens.

Must-Have Products: I like natural products, for example, Sisley Floral Mask, Kiehl’s lip balm, Ren night cream, Pola supermoisture cream and all La Mer products—especially the lifting serum and lip balm.

Top 10 Fragrance Brands at Tsum in February 2008
1. Chanel
2. Frédéric Malle
3. Guerlain
4. Tom Ford
5. Serge Lutens
6. Christian Dior
7. Giorgio Armani
8. Bond No. 9
9. Creed
10. Estée Lauder


Source: Tsum



Top 10 Skin & Hair Brands at Tsum in February 2008
1. La Mer
2. La Prairie
3. L’Occitane
4. Sisley
5. Lancôme
6. Chanel
7. Biotherm
8. Kanebo
9. Guerlain
10. Alterna


Source: Tsum



Top 10 Makeup Brands at Tsum in February 2008

1. MAC
2. Chanel
3. Lancôme
4. Christian Dior
5. Givenchy
6. Yves Saint Laurent
7. Guerlain
8. Jane Iredale
9. Estée Lauder
10. Helena Rubinstein

Source: Tsum


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