How Lancome’s gucci westman creates an overnight color sensation—complete with a mile-long waiting list—season after season.
In the spring of 2006, Lancôme’s international artistic director, Gucci Westman, created a red lipstick for Behnaz Sarafpour’s fall collection. The color, which was marketed as a limited edition shade in the fall of that year, sold out before it could even hit counters and created a frenzy among bloggers, beauty mavens and fashionistas alike. The $21 lipstick turned up on eBay in the days that followed priced at $103.50. And thus the brand’s Pout-à-Porter project was born.
One year and two more similarly successful shades later, Lancôme and Westman are hard at work on their fourth color, this time for the hot young designer Thakoon Panichgul. Three days before Panichgul’s spring 2008 show, Westman and the designer conducted a makeup test to decide on the color. “I’ve always loved lipstick that you can throw on,” says Panichgul. “Like you’re done surfing and you just want to put on a little bit of color.”
Working with the show’s theme of “a Japanese girl who goes to Hawaii,” Westman decided on a fuchsia stain to highlight the fresh-from-the-beach glow she planned on giving the models. She mixed together three creamy textured colors: beige, beige-colored rose and a bright, blue-based fuchsia. “It’s the sheerest color we’ve done yet for the project,” says Westman, “but it’s perfect for Thakoon. His girl is about minimal makeup.”
After the show was over, samples of the three hues were sent to Lancôme’s shade development labs in New Jersey. A prototype was created and sent to both Westman and Panichgul for approval. Both agreed that the initial sample was too fuchsia and pearlescent, so two more samples were created, one of which was instantaneously agreed upon (see the sample above). Two thousand of the as-yet-unnamed color will now go into production as a Color Fever Shine lipstick, set to hit counters in February for $24 each. If past performance is any indication, they won’t be there long—waiting lists for the lipstick are now de rigueur.
In honor the @CFDA’s announcement of @iamnaomicampbell receiving the Fashion Icon Award at the 2018 #CFDAAwards, which will take place on June 4, here’s a #tbt of the supermodel on @michaelkors’ runway in 1991. #wwdfashion #wwdarchive (📷: George Chinsee)
“I was making the guacamole when my scout saw me,” says model @stuckinteenage on being discovered just six months ago while working at @chipotlemexicangrill. Since then Williams has signed with @dnamodels, walked in her first show at @calvinklein and landed on the cover of @vogueitalia – a high point of any model’s career. To read @lisajlockwood’s full interview with the model on her experiences thus far, head to WWD.com – link in bio. (📷: George Chinsee)
“I love the idea of dialogue, period. It’s where I’ve always gotten my inspiration from: hearing other women speak, their journeys and their paths,” said @hereisgina, who delivered the keynote speech during @sxsw for @createcultivate in partnership with @fossil. For her two panels, Rodriguez chose female empowering, female-led and female entrepreneurs to focus on. Head to WWD.com to read more about her thoughts on Time’s Up, growing up in a family of women and why we “need a girls’ club.” #wwdeye #sxsw (📷: @jgreenery)
Leading luxury brand are shaking things up to keep up with streetwear. Case in point: the arrival of @mrkimjones as artistic director of @diorhomme. Jones, who succeeds @Kris_Van_Assche, is seen as one of the handful of designers who can actually straddle the luxury and streetwear worlds — which could lead to even more changes at established brands. What could this mean for the rest of the menswear landscape? Head to WWD.com to find out what experts predict #wwdfashion (📷: @franckmura)
“It’s like buying groceries. You’re going to buy the best mango, the best mozzarella, the best things. You have to, or others are going to take it all,” said @gabrielahearst on why she uses only the finest fabrics. Last week, Hearst received her first @cfda nomination for Womenswear Designer of the Year, and earlier this month she opened a permanent showroom in Paris. To read @jessiredale’s interview with the designer and find out why this is shaping up to be a big year for her, head to WWD.com. #wwdfashion (📷: @francoisgoize)
“It’s an interesting thing, playing a younger version of your mother. It’s an interesting concept. I adore my mom and love her in every capacity, but it was just something that had never crossed my mind,” says @anniemstarke on playing a young Joan Castleman in “The Wife.” The same role will be played by her mother Glenn Close. Read more about her growing up in the film industry as the daughter of producer John H. Starke and Close and what she has planned for the future #wwdeye (📷: @nataliamantini)
@asics is launching a new streetwear sneaker inspired by its latest ambassador, @steveaoki. The Hyper-Kenzen x Aoki, which will launch at @footlocker stores exclusively tomorrow, is a slip-on style that incorporates the brand’s proprietary Gel technology through beads integrated into the midsole for comfort and endurance. Read the full story on WWD.com.