LONDON — European label lovers can look forward to logos a go-go on beauty products in 2009.
The European Cosmetics Standards Working Group, whose members include a plethora of marquee-name classification groups, will introduce common standards for natural and organic beauty products on March 30, for example.
COSMOS-Organic and COSMOS-Natural labels will begin appearing on cosmetics packaging, which satisfy criteria agreed to by the group, consisting of the U.K.’s Soil Association, France’s Cosmebio and Ecocert, Belgium’s Bioforum, Germany’s BDIH and Italy’s ICEA classification bodies. The founding members’ labels will also appear on the products.
The move could help bring some clarity to the growing “natural cosmetics” market, which has become somewhat of an umbrella term for products ranging from the stridently green to those with what some might call a very tenuous link to nature.
Meanwhile, France’s health minister Roselyne Bachelot is considering introducing a labeling system for cosmetics deemed dangerous for children and pregnant women. In November, she said the French Health Products Safety Agency (AFSSAPS) will be called upon to evaluate the toxicity of certain chemical substances and the potential risks they pose to reproduction.
“I would like to study, in partnership with industry [bodies], the possibility of putting a logo on products that are toxic to reproduction, indicating they are not recommended for pregnant women and for young children,” Bachelot said during a conference in November.
Controversial chemicals including parabens and phthalates have long been under the microscope because of links to reproductive problems.
Also in the chemicals field, a list of substances preregistered under the Registration, Evaluation and Authorization Chemicals regulations (REACH) will be published Jan. 1. Preregistered companies will then begin sharing data in Substance Information Exchange Forums. Companies, including beauty firms, that did not preregister chemicals by Dec. 1 as part of the European law cannot manufacture or import those substances until they submit a full registration dossier.
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast