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Special Issue
Beauty Inc issue 09/12/2008

Acid Brights

This story first appeared in the September 12, 2008 issue of WWD.  Subscribe Today.

For fall, forward-thinking designers like Proenza Schouler, Behnaz Sarafpour and Derek Lam sent models down the runway sporting bold rings of bright color around their eyes. Makeup companies are following suit: Cargo’s Tahiti palette features a complementary quad of acid green and electric blue, while makeup artist Sue Devitt riffs on the shades in her Great Barrier Reef-inspired fall collection. Even neutral-loving Bobbi Brown goes bold with her new Mint metallic eye shadow.


Bamboo is the fastest-growing plant in the world, and among the hardiest, too, making its inclusion as a strengthener in hair care products a, well, natural. Alfaparf Milano’s Midollo di Bamboo Recharging Mask uses the marrow of the plant to help repair the hair’s structure, while stylist Laurent Dufourg included it in his Privé Thermal Protection Detangling Spray as a safeguard against damage from heated implements. Aetó Botanica Contouring Serum, part of an On-the-Go therapy kit, is bamboo-enriched with aromatherapy and is parablenand sulfate-free. As they say, there’s strength in numbers.

Clean Hair

What natural shampoos gain in eco-goodness they sometimes lose in efficacy (no suds!). The newest crop satisfies both bubble-lovers and tree-huggers alike.

Frederic Fekkai Au Naturel Gentle Shampoo:
Luxe meets leaf in this sulfate-free, paraben-free, dye-free and fragrance-free shampoo. What is here: sugar-and palm-based cleansers plus peppermint leaf to stimulate and calendula to nourish. $23, C.O. Bigelow, Frederic Fekkai Salons, Bloomingdale’s, Lord & Taylor, Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom, Saks, Sephora.

Intelligent Nutrients hair Cleanser:
From Horst Rechelbacher, the man who created Aveda, comes Intelligent Nutrients, an FDA-certified organic hair and skin care range. This shampoo features the line’s signature seed oil complex of black cumin, pumpkin, red grape, raspberry and cranberry. $39, ABC Carpet & Home, Barneys New York, Space NK, Studio at Fred Segal.

Avalon Organics Olive and Grape Seed Shampoo:
High in omega fatty acids, grape seed oil is said to regenerate damaged hair; panthenol and botanical lipids clean and moisturize. $9, CVS, Target, Whole Foods, Wild Oats.

Jonathan Products Detox Dirt Clarifying Shampoo: Granted, its name is an anomaly, but this sulfate-free weekly cleanser contains rosemary-sage essential water to deep-clean and pink orchid to add moisture. $20, Sephora, Jonathanproduct.com, sephora.com.

Dianne Brill

Dubbed queen of the night in the Eighties, Dianne Brill hopes to extend her reign to the beauty counter this fall. She’s adding to her line of lip products with a full line of skin care products and a signature scent. The fragrance, which took Brill eight years to perfect, combines florals with a spicy, woody heart—a blend not unlike the entrepreneur herself.


Unique Delivery Systems rev up this season’s crop of eye area essentials.

Lavere Hyrdro Cooling Roller Ball Eye Gel:
A 100 percent organic gel with biotechnologically obtained hyaluronic acid and a fruit acid complex to help improve the appearance of lines just starting to appear. $55, lavere.com.

Biotherm Multi Recharge Yeux:
Revs up eyes with a blend of ginseng, caffeine and ginkgo. Combined with vitamins A and E, it claims to help reduce the look of dark circles and puffiness. $26, biotherm-usa.com.

Borba HD-illuminating Eye Specialist:
This dual-ended wand has a peptide-packed brightening serum on one end, a lightly tinted concealer cream on the other with the antioxidants acai and grape seed. $50, qvc.com.

American Beauty Beauty Boost Overnight Radiance Eye Cream:
Created specifically for nighttime, this contains wheat germ and barley extract to help improve the barrier strength of the eye area. $26, Kohl’s.

Garnier Nutritioniste Skin Renew Anti-Puff Eye Roller:
Caffeine is said to help disperse fluid and eradicate dark circles; the nifty roller ball applicator cools on contact for instant de-puffing. $12.99, Mass Retailers.


The sophisitcation—and severity—of the season’s most fashionable looks means there’s no margin for imperfection when it comes to your face. These new foundations produce a flawless finish without a heavy makeup feel.

Maybelline New York Instant Age Rewind Custom Face Perfector Cream Foundation:
A cream foundation that lets the user control the amount of coverage with a unique dual-sided applicator that delivers both sheer and full looks. $9.99, Mass Retailers. Lorac Natural Performance Foundation: Suitable for sensitive skin, this oil-free, fragrance-free and paraben-free formula contains olive leaf extract and vitamin A to act as an antioxidant and help protect skin. $35, Sephora, Ulta, loraccosmetics.com.

Clinique Superfit Makeup:
First launched in 1999, Superfit’s new formula features “aerogel” technology to absorb sebum and lift it off the skin’s surface, plus a porous film technology said to help wick away perspriation and ensure a natural, matte finish. $19.50, Clinique Counters.

Clarins Instant Smooth Foundation:
This mousse combines soft-focus pigments to minimize the look of fine lines, silicone micropearls to fill wrinkles and vitamin E and plant triglycerides to moisturize and protect skin throughout the day. $37, Clarins Counters. Shu Uemura Face Architect Remodeling Cream Foundation with SPF 10: Shu Uemura believed some areas needed more foundation, some less. This contains 20 percent deep-sea water and volatile oil, allowing it to spread evenly and build coverage only where desired. $45, Saks.

Amorepacific Time Response Skin Renewel Foundation SPF 18:
Green tea harvested from AmorePacific’s own gardens is used in myriad ways—green tea-infused powder illuminates, while green tea oil and flower extract are said to help fill in fine lines and wrinkles. $90, Bergdorf Goodman.

Guerlain Parure Aqua Radiant Feel-Good Foundation:
Ocean spring water, which combines the properties of sea- and freshwater and is rich in potassium and magnesium, is the star hydrator in this lightweight foundation. $55, Bloomingdale’s, Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom, Saks.

Lancome Photogenic Lumessence:
A network of iridescent color particles are said to refract light and add luminosity, while a sodium hyalauronate-glycerin combination provides daylong moisturization. $40, Lancome Counters, lancome-usa.com.


Move over Vamp. For his debut as Chanel’s creative director of makeup, artist extraordinaire Peter Philips has created a shade as buzzed about as the house’s other legendary nail lacquer. Gold Fiction Facettes D’Or is a shimmering metallic inspired by Coco Chanel’s legendary digs on the Rue Cambon.


Sophisticated and subtle, fall’s new men’s scents exude an air of assured masculinity.

Rocawear 91X:
Created by hip-hop king Jay Z, coriander, mandarin and cantaloupe meld with lavender, geranium and rich base notes like amber and musk for a fresh woody scent. $65, Belk, Bon Ton/Carson’s, Dillard’s, Macy’s.

Patrick Dempsey Unscripted by Avon:
A scent as nuanced as Dempsey himself, Unscripted blends cardamom and black pepper with fig, lavender, leatherwood, patchouli and vetiver. $32, avon.com, 800.FOR.AVON.

Gucci by Gucci Pour Homme:
Designed by Gucci creative director Frida Giannini, this blends notes of wood, warm incense and—naturally—leather for a modern take on the house’s heritage. $70, Bloomingdale’s, Nordstrom, Saks.

Porsche Design The Essence:
The scultural ice blue flacon houses a bracing blend of myrtle, juniper and black pepper laced with Siberian pine and Russian coriander leaves. $70, Bloomindale’s, Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom, Porsche Design.

Emporio Armani Diamonds for Men:
Italian bergamot and Szechuan pepper give this the sparkle of its namesake gem; cedar and gaiac woods add depth. $62.50, Bloomingdale’s, Macy’s.


Everything really is illuminated with this season’s glow-from-within face products. Givenchy’s Pocket Beauty Case can be used on the lips or face to create dimension and highlights, while MAC’s Emanuel Ungaro collection, created with designer Esteban Cortazar, features a brightening pink face powder as fresh as a flower in the Jardin des Tuileries. Shiseido’s Champagne Flush Accentuating Color Stick imparts the healthy flush of a bottle of Veuve Clicquot, and Estée Lauder’s new signature blush is milled to provide a luminous finish that melts into skin.


One of beauty’s most classic—and versatile— ingredients, jasmine is featured in fragrance and skin care this season. Egyptian white jasmine grandifl orum, picked on the riverbanks of the Nile, is the star ingredient in L’Occitane’s Jasmin Eau de Parfum, while black jasmine takes the lead in Bulgari’s Jasmine Noir. Amala, a new organic skin care line, takes the blossom as its primary moisturizing and antioxidant ingredient in its Hydrate range.


Beauty companies have been heralding the return of lipstick for a few seasons. This fall, they put their money where their mouth is with a slew of new formulas that do more than just look good. Avon’s Anew Youth-Awakening Lipstick contains the same antiaging and plumping technologies found in the line’s skin care, while Lancôme’s L’Absolu Rouge range contains the brand’s patented Pro-Xylane molecule for intense moisturization. Moisturization is the name of the game, too, for Clinique’s new High Impact Lip Colour, Prescriptives’ LipShine and Elizabeth Arden’s Color Intrigue Effects Lipstick, which also contains vitamins A, C and E for protection.

Love to Love You

We could wax rhapsodic about the sweet floral scent in Love, part of Gwen Stefani’s new Harajuku Lovers fragrance collection. But why bother when the bottle is so incredibly cute, prompting the very emotion it’s named for.

Mineral Makeup

The mineral makeup juggernaut shows no signs of slowing. This season’s newest includes L’Oréal Paris’ Bare Naturale Mascara, which contains mineral pigments, aloe and vitamin E in a paraben-free formula that’s 86 percent natural. Jane Iredale’s star product this fall is Brush-Me Matte, with rice starch to help keep the skin shinefree all day long, while Revlon moves the category forward with its ColorStay technology, providing up to 16 hours of wear. Rimmel London’s Lasting Finish Mineral Powder Foundation contains 95 percent minerals and antioxidants such as vitamins C and E to help protect against free radicals; Bare Escentuals pumps up its latest—Buxom Full Color Lip Polish—with a collagen-boosting complex to increase moisture and add volume.

New Neutrals

Brown=boring no more. Makeup’s safest shades are being amped up this season with a dose of shine or hint of depth, rendering this season’s basics anything but boring.

Overnight Sensations

The newest nighttime skin care provides targeted treatment while you sleep. Procter & Gamble researchers discovered age spots are an instant eye magnet. Olay Defi nity Night Anti-Spot Treatment aims to eradicate them with a combination of vitamin B3, niancinamide and a glucosamine complex to help fade spots. Coffeeberry extract is said to be one of nature’s most powerful antixoxidants. In Priori’s CoffeeBerry Night Complex, it’s combined with licorice root for lightening and argan and sunfl ower seed oils for moisturizing. Bioré Restore Skin Boosting Night Serum taps vitamins C and A to help regenerate skin, while extracts of rose hip, chamomile and aloe moisturize. Antioxidants and a pro-retinol complex fuel Boots No 7 Protect & Perfect Night Cream.


Shake it up baby! These new powders give new definition to a familiar form.

Cosmedicine Speedy Recovery Acne Treatment Nighttime Blemish Powder:
Containing 2 percent salicylic acid and other bacteria- and sebum-reducing ingredients, the powder form allows for precise application on troubled spots. $38, Sephora, cosmedicine.com.

Dermalogica Extreme C:
A unique powder-to-emulsion formula with a non-acidic stable form of vitamin C said to help inhibit melanin formation and thus help prevent age spots and discoloration. $85, Blue Mercury, Ulta, bluemercury.com, ulta.com.

Benefit Powderflage:
Rethink cream concealers. This superlight pink powder helps diffuse the appearance of dark circles and fine lines in the eye area. $32, Benefit Counters.


Skin desiccated by harsh winter weather needs a body cream of equal strength. Fresh’s Fig Apricot version delivers with a mix of meadowfoam and borage seed oils and mango seed butter, while Perlier’s Honey & Mixed Nuts Soft Body Butter taps into the ultramoisturizing properties of organic honey from Pia, Italy. India Hicks combines coconut and olive oils with a scent inspired by her Caribbean home in her newest collection for Crabtree & Evelyn, Island Night.

Rough Cut

The season’s most in-demand hairstyles call for products that emphasize (and create, if necessary) texture—not eradicate it. Joico’s Design Collection Texture Spray, a seawater-based concoction, fi ts the bill, mimicking the effect of a day at the beach even if you haven’t been near the surf. Bumble and bumble’s multiuse Curl Conscious Reactivating Mist can be deployed throughout the day to rev up flagging hair or in the morning as a hydrating boost. For a more separated effect, Vavoom’s Switch Flicks can be used on wet or dry hair, acting like a gel on the former and a wax on the latter. Finally, KMS California’s HairPlay Dry Wax is a spray wax with rice powder, giving hair a dry texture and medium hold but without any stickiness.

Smooth Operator

Calling all conventional washcloths: Your days are numbered. Cargo’s Blu_Ray Polishing Cloths contain ultrafine fibers—70 to 100 times thinner than human hair—in a patented woven fabric that is said to exfoliate as effectively as microdermabrasion but gentle enough to use every day. Used wet, either with or without cleanser, the cloths can be wrung dry and reused up to 20 times.

Target’s New Trio

Target has long tapped Chichi fashion designers to create exclusive—and affordable—collections for its stores. This season the mass retailer has done the same with beauty, enlisting three prestige makeup artists to create new lines exclusive to its aisles.

Pixi by Petra by Petra Strand:
Less is less for Swedish-born, London-based Petra Strand, who’s philosophy is to keep it fresh, clean and simple. This mineral makeup kit with everything one needs for a full face does just that. The rest of the collection, about 91 items in all priced from $12 to $39, follows a similarly streamlined strategy. Natural Mineral Kit, $32.

JK Jemma Kidd by Jemma Kidd:
Makeup artist Jemma Kidd is absolutely passionate about education: She’s got a school in her native London and plans call for a U.S. outpost. And as a former model, she’s always tuned into style, too. Her 84-item collection, priced from $16 to $35, emphasizes both, featuring fashionforward colors in textures and forms that even a makeup novice can master. Fashion Palette, $36.

NP Set by Napoleon Perdis:
Australian makeup artist Napoleon Perdis moved to Los Angeles recently and his new line reflects his new hometown, with glamourous colors and star-studded packaging (literally). But the collection—98 percent paraben-free—has substance, too, including Perdis’ signature “fix-it” products. Consisting of 83 stockkeeping units, prices range from $12 to $30. Powder foundation, $30.


For the beauty novice, primer seems like an unnecessary extra step. But for makeup artists, who are passionate about “prepping the canvas,” they’re a must-have. Here, the latest face perfectors.

Stila Tila Hydrating Primer SPF 15:
Hyaluronic acid spheres keep skin moisturized throughout the day to help keep it looking plump and makeup looking fresh. $34, Sephora, Space NK, Studio at Fred Segal, sephora.com, stilacosmetics.com.

Make Up For Ever HD Microperfecting Primer:
Silica microbeads act as light refl ectors in this oil-free formula, available in six shades such as yellow to add golden tones to dark complexions and blue to optimize fair skin. $32, Sephora, sephora.com.

Fresh Twilight Freshface Glow:
Packed with seawater, cucumber extract and rosewater, plus a subtle shimmer, use under makeup to impart a soft sheen or over to transform a look from daytime into night. $36, Barneys, Blue Mercury, Saks, fresh.com.

Cle de Peau Beaute Smoothing Base for Lines SPF 26:
Olive oil helps minimize the appearance of fi ne lines and wrinkles, SPF 26 protects the results from sun damage. $72, Bergdorf Goodman.

Yves Saint Laurent Top Secrets Flash Rediance Skin Care Brush:
Inspired by YSL’s cult favorite Touche Eclat, this brush-on primer forms a protective veil to help even out skin tone and protect it from the elements. $52, YSL Counters.

Mally Prep Poreless Primer:
Makeup artist Mally Roncal calls this her “secret weapon.” Containing marine spheres and red seaweed extract, it helps fill in lines and impart a matte fi nish that diminshes the appearance of pores. $35, Henri Bendel, 800.HBENDEL.

Kanebo Sensai Smoothing Water Make-Up Base:
It’s ultramoisturizing properties help makeup go on more smoothly by creating a taut, invisible veil over the skin. $45, Saks.

Vibrating Mascaras

No need to check your ears. That buzz you hear is probably the aftereffects of the latest battle in the lash wars: vibrating mascaras. Both Estée Lauder and Lancôme are introducing mascaras with vibrating wands, each promising greater length, volume, curl or separation than conventional mascaras. Lauder’s TurboLash All Effects Motion Mascara oscillates at 125 cycles per second whenever the cap is removed from the tube; Lancôme’s Oscillation provides 7,000 “microoscillations” a minute when a button is pressed. The former is $30, available now at Saks; the latter is $35 and had a special one-day launch on July 31 with full distribution expected in November. Spin City indeed.

White Tea

White tea is a perennial favorite in the antioxidant lexicon, and no wonder: Because it’s picked early and undergoes very little processing, if any at all, it has the highest levels of antioxidants found in tea of any hue, be it green, black, white or red. Origins, one of the first to include it in products, blends it with polyphenols in its new A Perfect World Deep Cleanser to help prevent oxidation of the skin, while Bioelements combines it with licorice root extract for anti-infl ammatory benefi ts. RéVive taps into white tea’s powers for its Microdermabrasion Renewal System, which contains microcrystalline powders to polish skin and epidermal growth factor and white tea to help protect the results. Dr. Brandt’s Microdermabrasin Body is an ampedup version of his perennially popular face product, with aluminum oxide crystals and lactic and glycolic acids to buff skin and green and white tea to help calm inflammation.

X Years Old

Happy Birthday Sephora! Ten years ago, the Frenchbased retailer launched in New York’s SoHo, bringing with it a bold new attitude to beauty retailing. Concepts such as self-selection and brand-neutral sales associates were virtually unheard of back then. Today, they’re de rigueur, along with a tidal wave of indie brands Sephora has helped establish in the marketplace. Not content to rest on its laurels, the retailer continues to innovate, be it by inking partnership deals with J.C. Penney and HSN or revamping the way skin care is merchandised. To celebrate, some of Sephora’s top brands created limited edition products based on their bestsellers at the chain.

Young Guns

Hope does indeed rest in a jar, at least for these three doctors, all of whom are launching new skin care brands this fall.

ZO Skin Health:
In skin care circles, Beverly Hillsbased dermatologist Zein Obagi is probably best known for the professionally dispensed blue peel. His new 11-sku line aims to give similar results at home. Obagi says the products contain among the highest percentage of active ingredients in any over-thecounter line, citing Ossential Radical Night Repair, which contains 1 percent concentrated retinol and Oclipse Sunscreen + Primer SPF 30, a primer with titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. Prices range from $40 to $325; the line is available in Nordstrom, Henri Bendel and Studio at Fred Segal.

En Pointe Skin Solutions:
Plastic surgeon Christine Rodgers is as passionate about ballet as she is about skin health. Her line, En Pointe Skin Solutions, looks to combine the two, its name conveying the strength and targeted accuracy ballet requires, two traits she says effective skin care products need as well. Each product is named for a different move in dance. Standouts include Eclairci C Serum, $75, which contains a peptide collagen compound along with vitamin C to help promote collagen synthesis and neutralize free radical damage, and Encore Renewal Serum, $85, which blends skin brighteners with vitamin C and an antioxidant complex. Prices start at $32; the line is sold at empoweryourskin.com.

Home Skin Lab:
Plastic surgeon Norman Pastorek says that skin regenerates about every 28 days, a cycle that slows down as you age. His new line, Home Skin Lab, developed by Coty with Pastorek and his wife, Janice, features five different 28-day regimens: Ageless, Wrink’less, Firmness, Brightness and Pureness. Each has five products: a cleanser, toner, serum, day cream and zone-specific product. Ageless, seen here, targets women in their 30s and claims to protect DNA with biotechnologically sourced endonuclease, an enzyme responsible for DNA repair in the skin. The kits will sell for $129 on HSN and hsn.com.


The blue rose is said to be one of the most elusive flowers in horticulture. In existence for only a few years in the Eighties, it was created in Japan by crossbreeding two different blooms. Its olfactive composition was captured and preserved, however, and more than two decades later, serves as the basis of Shiseido’s revamped Zen fragrance. Originally launched in 1964, Zen featured Bulgarian rose in its first incarnation and Space rose, a bud that was sent into space and analyzed without gravity, in its second. This time around, the Blue rose was chosen for its zesty freshness. A warm base of amber and patchouli lend the fragrance a spicy edge, while bergamot and pineapple give it sparkle. Well-balanced? Undoubtably. After all, could a scent with a name like Zen be anything but?

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