At issue is cosmetic companies calling their products “natural” or “organic” when the natural world believes they are not. Yet, the challenge facing the roughly $8 billion natural and organic global cosmetics market is the absence of any formal government standards despite the increasing trend towards “natural” beauty products. That subject, among others, was debated at the Natural Beauty Summit held at the Sheraton Hotel in New York on May 7 and 8, organized by Organized by ITEC France — the company that organizes Paris-based trade show Beyond Beauty — and Organic Monitor, a London-based research and consultancy firm. Representatives from L’Oréal, Estée Lauder, Unilever and Clarins, among others, attended the two-day conference.
Mike Indursky, chief marketing and strategic officer of Burt’s Bees, said there should be one global natural standard for certification of personal care products. “We want to make sure that a product labeled natural is truly natural. If you have a woman who is a cancer survivor who is supposed to avoid toxins, she is going to assume a naturally labeled product is in fact natural. If she purchases that item, she is unwittingly using the exact ingredients she is trying to avoid,” he told the roughly 130 attendees in a panel discussion on May 7.
“In Europe you have dozens of certification organizations — some are natural some are for organic — but they can’t harmonize, and in the U.S., every retailer and private organization has its own standard,” Indursky explained. Currently groups like the Soil Association and EcoCert, as well as industry alliances like Cosmos in Europe and Oasis in North America, are all working on standards for both natural and organic personal care products. Indursky has been working with the Natural Products Association (NPA) here in the U.S. and private Brussels-based organization NaTrue for over a year to create one globally recognized natural standard for the personal care industry. As a recently appointed U.S. founding member of NaTrue, Indursky said he hopes to have European products carrying the NPA seal as early as July. “This will allow more European products to get certification in the U.S. because they would be recognized by NPA. Consumers will now have a much bigger array of products to choose from with a natural offering,” he said.
Under the natural standard, all products bearing the NPA seal must be made up of at least 95 percent natural ingredients — not including water — and cannot contain any materials that might have a potential human health risk.
Horst Rechelbacher, founder of food and plant-based beauty company Intelligent Nutrients, told the audience he believes the Obama administration will likely bring more government regulation to the industry. Yet, the passionate if not somewhat eccentric Rechelbacher said the beauty industry should look to the organic food industry, which is regulated by the USDA, for guidance. “We’re in a new paradigm and to me, edible cosmetics is a no-brainer. If you can’t eat it, don’t put it on.”
Still, other challenges facing the personal care industry include the growing complexity and evolution of the natural and organic cosmetics market, according to Organic Monitor’s president Amarjit Sahota. “As the cosmetics market becomes increasingly sophisticated, you need to be more than just organic or natural — that is becoming the bare minimum,” said Sahota, pointing to a rise in ethical consumerism and a slew of new entries into the market by large cosmetic companies like L’Oréal and Clarins. “Ethical sourcing, fair trade practices and ecological packaging are also becoming necessary.”
@chanel and @pharrell dropped what’s being dubbed as the world’s most exclusive sneakers yesterday. The Adidas Originals NMD Hu, which Williams designed in collaboration with Chanel and @adidasoriginals, has a waiting list of over 120K people who pre-registered online at chanelatcolette.fr –– and only 500 pairs are on sale. The singer predicted the resale value of the shoes could reach $40K. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdfashion (📷: Dominique Maître)
@imanshumpert is diving deeper into his creative endeavors and relaunching his clothing line, Post 90s, and is helping to raise money for the hurricane victims in St. Maarten with a jersey he’s designed with his brother. The Cleveland Cavaliers player talked to WWD about kneeling during the national anthem, working with fashion brands and how he wants to be more than an @nba player. Read the interview on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
Not only does #TheProfit return to CNBC tonight, but @marcuslemonis has launched @shopmarcus, a new shopping and lifestyle retail experience in Aspen and Chicago, with more locations to come. The retail stores offer in-store stylists and a variety of contemporary womenswear selections.
“It’s life, I’m going to face it,” @mingxi11 sighed. “I fell, but you know, I think the most important thing is that I get back up. I had the love, the help from my sister — the girl next to me Gizele [Oliveira] — she’s so nice. When I went backstage everybody was trying to comfort me like ‘Oh Ming, it’s OK.’ I’m really, really touched. I think it’s them who gave me the courage to go back on stage for the finale,” Xi told WWD of her fall at the @victoriassecret fashion show. (📷: David Fisher) #wwdfashion #vsfashionshow #victoriassecret
@louisvuitton tapped @therealpeterlindbergh for its latest city-centric photo book, which is part of a series called Fashion Eye. The primarily black and white book captures the spirit of Berlin in 57 images shot between 1989 and 2019. “Berlin is an inspiration for me, more than a city. I mean @millajovovich is simply Berlin!” said Lindbergh. #wwdfashion
“You know, I think audiences expect a certain performance so I have to deliver to them what they’re expecting to a certain degree. But I’m also a different actor and a different person, I have my own spin on the character,” says @noahegalvin of his takeover of the leading role in “Dear Evan Hansen” following the departure of @bensplatt, who originated the role. Read WWD’s interview with the 23-year-old actor on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
For pre-fall 2018, @etro created richly-colored wonderland, using tapestries, textiles and wallpapers from the Eastern world at large. The line featured floral and graphic prints and jacquard motifs, like this two-piece look featured here. #wwdfashion (📷: Giovanna Pavesi)
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)