CANNES, France — The traffic in new products was busier than usual at the Tax Free World Association annual meeting, which ran from Sept. 18 to 23 here, as beauty manufacturers hawked their wares for distributors and travel-retail operators.
Among the major fragrance initiatives to be shown was Salvatore Ferragamo’s Signorina eau de parfum. The scent, due out starting in February, targets young women. IFF perfumers Sophie Labbé and Juliette Karagueuzoglou conceived its juice, and its bottle sports the brand’s signature grosgrain ribbon.
“I believe that in terms of volume, Signorina can be the double of Attimo,” said Luciano Bertinelli, chief executive officer of Ferragamo Parfums. “Everybody in every area says [the new fragrance] can match with our tastes. It can probably be the line number one or number two [item] in the next 18 months.”
Signorina marks the first time Ferragamo Parfums is investing in U.S. magazine advertising, while in China there will be TV ad campaigns in the future.
Meanwhile, the Attimo franchise is set for expansion, too. The Attimo Pour Homme scent is slated for a launch in September, the same month Attimo L’Eau Florale for women will come out.
The international introduction of L’Amour Fou in February will be the Emanuel Ungaro brand’s first major fragrance launch in six years. To help bolster it, Ferragamo — the Ungaro fragrance licensee — will for the first time air TV advertising in France.
Procter & Gamble is to celebrate the 20th anniversary of its Escada fashion fragrance franchise with the reedition in January of three of its bestsellers of the series — Sexy Graffiti, Island Kiss and Rockin Rio. “We’re starting to see a turnaround of the brand,” said Joanne Crewes, president, P&G Prestige.
“It was slowing down for us,” added Carolyn Tastad, vice president, P&G Prestige Global Market Operations. This fall, P&G will attempt to capitalize on its huge Gucci Guilty franchise by launching an Intense version for men and for women.
The company is also rolling out a Boss Collection series of five artisanal fragrances in which fabrics are correlated with olfactive families.
Another huge franchise for P&G is SK-II. The brand’s Cellumination will be introduced in Asia’s travel-retail locations before it hits domestic markets.
Over at Inter Parfums SA, a new Lanvin men’s scent, called Avant-Garde, is due out starting in February. Then, one month later, the Boucheron fragrance line will be relaunched with four existing fragrances updated with new packaging. And a completely new Boucheron scent is slated for 2013.
This year, Inter Parfums SA’s strategy, according to its chairman and ceo, Philippe Benacin, “was to push the three new launches, which were Jimmy Choo, Montblanc Legend and Burberry Body, and to have strong launches, which was the case. These three fragrances are very successful.”
Together, they have generated this year in ex-factory terms 60 million euros to 80 million euros, or $80.6 million to $107.4 million at current exchange, he said, adding that would lead to 20 to 22 percent revenue growth for Inter Parfums SA this year.
Also in 2011, the company doubled its marketing budget to 100 million euros, or $134.3 million.
ICR-ITF president Roberto Martone called business from the ICR fragrance distribution branch “extremely good. This will be another fantastic year for our company.” The ITF manufacturing arm is “doing well,” too, he said, adding the two new Trussardi fragrances were well-accepted.
“This is very important because for us, Trussardi will be a strategic brand for the future,” said Martone. From Dsquared — the largest brand in ICR-ITF’s portfolio — early results for the new Potion for Man scent were quite good, he continued.
“We think in a year and a half we can recover the loss of turnover from Cavalli,” said Martone, referring to the designer fragrance license that ended with his company on June 30.
Parfums Lalique, which is owned by Art & Fragrance, showcased various projects, including a new iteration of the Nilang eau de parfum, introduced in 1995 but discontinued two years later. Its juice remains the same as the original’s, but its packaging has been reworked. There’s also a numbered and signed crystal Nilang bottle decorated with gold and containing perfume extract, due out in December. The rest of the line was launched in France in mid-September before its rest-of-the world rollout in mid-October.
The annual limited edition of the Lalique de Lalique edp for 2012, in a crystal flaçon with rose, jasmine and honeysuckle-leave designs, was created with Parfums Lalique’s 20th anniversary in mind.
“We wanted to pay homage to the olfactive pyramid of Lalique de Lalique,” explained Julie Carry, marketing manager for Parfums Lalique.
TPR Holding is relaunching its recently acquired Freeze 24-7 skin care brand in Bloomingdale’s, starting in eight doors.
For the brand, TPR Holdings president Brian Robinson’s strategy involves “heavy sampling, strong p.r., product innovation, strong visibility and developing good partnerships with the retailers and normalizing relations.”
In April, two new Freeze 24-7 products will debut.
Another focus for TPR is its Oscar Blandi hair care line that boasts about 25 stockkeeping units.
“We’re looking to elevate the brand, because we still think there’s white space in that prestige area,” said Robinson. “With Oscar Blandi, we’re doing a packaging harmonization, and we’re really focusing on what we see our unique proposition is — which is quick fixes. So our claim to fame is we’re the leader in dry shampoo.”
His intention is to make the line more shopable and to bring it international, using Sephora as a preferred partner.
“Right now we’re just trying to assess the landscape on what the proper distribution is,” said Robinson. New products for Beauté Prestige International next year include L’Eau d’Issey pour Homme Sport in spring and a new women’s fragrance for the Issey Miyake brand starting at the end of 2012. Jean Paul Gaultier’s Le Male line will be extended with two collectors’ editions, among other introductions. Early next year, Narciso Rodriguez will get two limited editions, an eau de toilette délicate and an eau de parfum délicate. Some other novelties for the brand comprise a floral eau de toilette and an amber edt. An Elie Saab Le Parfum edt is set for second-half 2012. Additional product news at the TFWA trade show included:
• Euroitalia is rolling out the Yellow Diamond scent and will launch the third John Richmond fragrance in Italy in October.
• La Prairie is introducing the U.S. Cellular Power Charge Night, an overnight antiaging treatment, before rolling it out elsewhere in February.
• Perfume Holding recently launched Divine from La Perla and Eau de Iceberg. The company is to introduce Ferrari Essence Oud in November in the Middle East and a second Ducati scent, Fight for Me, in October in Germany and Italy.
• Bulgari’s three-unit Secret de Gems antiwrinkle skin care line, whose formula includes amethyst, is to come out in numerous European and Asian countries in October and will hit U.S. shelves in February.
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