Forty-five years old and still on top, Clinique’s powerhouse Dramatically Different Moisturizing Lotion has been retooled and given a new lease on life.
Redubbed with a plus symbol after the name, DDML will be relaunched this summer with all the global media fanfare that the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc.-owned division can muster, including network and co-op TV, social media and heavy sampling.
The company is investing heavily because the size of the business is huge and so are the stakes. Industry sources estimate that sales could be increased by 50 percent.
DDML is the heart of Clinique’s trademark three-step skin-care system, which has been the cornerstone of the brand since its inception in the fall of 1968. The product is billed by the company as the number-one prestige market moisturizer in the world, while still maintaining high- single-digit sales gains in mature markets and double-digit hikes in developing countries. Lynne Greene, an Estée Lauder group president whose duties include Clinique, was succinct in explaining why an update was needed. “One of the reasons that we actually wanted to change the product is that the world changed,” she said, adding, “The world has changed and how does this product meet the new world? Skin gets dehydrated faster today in this world because of the pollution and [other] factors. We needed to put more hydration into the product.”
Agnes Landau, Clinique’s senior vice president of global marketing, said the company worked with Dr. David Orentreich, the son of Clinique’s original scientific guru, and asked him what a modern version of the product would need. He said to increase the hydration, but you want to increase skin’s ability to hold on to that moisture, Landau recalled.
One of the reasons the product had not been updated was that consumers loved its texture and absorption ability and the company was afraid of altering those characteristics. “How do you change one of the most-loved products without alienating your existing customer base?” asked Ricardo Quintero, senior vice president and global general manager of market development.
The answer was 100 formula tests over a six-and-a-half-year period and the result was a 50 percent increase in hydration and a 54 percent improvement in the all-important moisture barrier. The moisturization was amped up by adding contemporary ingredients like hyaluronic acid, glycerin and urea. The moisture barrier, which prevents hydration from escaping, was strengthened by adding sunflower seed cake, barley extract and cucumber extract.
“The skin is being assaulted in a different way and that is why the skin needs the increased strength,” Greene said. “If a moisturizer wears longer, it protects your skin longer so your skin can stay stronger.”
Just to make sure that there would not be a customer revolt, Clinique surveyed 1,600 “existing, lapsed and competitive users” in five countries — the U.S., U.K., France, China and Japan. The verdict? They “loved it,” Greene remarked. To make the point on the need for a strong moisture barrier, Clinique shot an ad showing a DDML bottle resting inside a water-filled balloon. To make the redone product more tempting, the price was raised by only $1 — from $25 to $26 for a 4.2-oz bottle.
In the U.S., Dramatically Different Moisturizing Lotion+ will be launched in August supported by TV and print advertising in the September issues of magazines. In Clinique’s 149 markets around the world, the product will roll out between July and September.
While the company does not divulge budgets or sales forecasts, industry sources estimate that Clinique is making a huge effort. They calculate that the global war chest for total advertising and promotion could hit $80 million for the first full year. This could generate retail sales of $300 million for the first full year, industry sources calculate.
From overseeing America’s fastest-growing speciality retailers to codifying cool, WWD talked to the women who are leading the way for the future of beauty. Check out our Instagram Stories to see how these women built today and are creating tomorrow. (📸: @hannah_khymych) #wwdbeauty
For @laperlalingerie's spring 2018 show, the brand chose to host their event at @thevenetianmacao. With Chinese megastars @bingbing_fan and @hubing in attendance, La Perla debuted a rock ‘n’ roll-inspired collection. The show marked the start of Sands Macao Fashion Week, which runs from October 19 to 24 — the city’s first such event. Pictured here are models backstage with glimmering eyes. #wwdfashion (📷: Cheuk-Yin To)
Trending for spring 2018: top stitch design. Gone are the days of stitch just for seams — designers are using the once-minimal detail to create strong decorative elements. (📷: Paola Testa; Styled by @andrew_shang) #wwdfashion
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)