Forty-five years old and still on top, Clinique’s powerhouse Dramatically Different Moisturizing Lotion has been retooled and given a new lease on life.
Redubbed with a plus symbol after the name, DDML will be relaunched this summer with all the global media fanfare that the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc.-owned division can muster, including network and co-op TV, social media and heavy sampling.
The company is investing heavily because the size of the business is huge and so are the stakes. Industry sources estimate that sales could be increased by 50 percent.
DDML is the heart of Clinique’s trademark three-step skin-care system, which has been the cornerstone of the brand since its inception in the fall of 1968. The product is billed by the company as the number-one prestige market moisturizer in the world, while still maintaining high- single-digit sales gains in mature markets and double-digit hikes in developing countries. Lynne Greene, an Estée Lauder group president whose duties include Clinique, was succinct in explaining why an update was needed. “One of the reasons that we actually wanted to change the product is that the world changed,” she said, adding, “The world has changed and how does this product meet the new world? Skin gets dehydrated faster today in this world because of the pollution and [other] factors. We needed to put more hydration into the product.”
Agnes Landau, Clinique’s senior vice president of global marketing, said the company worked with Dr. David Orentreich, the son of Clinique’s original scientific guru, and asked him what a modern version of the product would need. He said to increase the hydration, but you want to increase skin’s ability to hold on to that moisture, Landau recalled.
One of the reasons the product had not been updated was that consumers loved its texture and absorption ability and the company was afraid of altering those characteristics. “How do you change one of the most-loved products without alienating your existing customer base?” asked Ricardo Quintero, senior vice president and global general manager of market development.
The answer was 100 formula tests over a six-and-a-half-year period and the result was a 50 percent increase in hydration and a 54 percent improvement in the all-important moisture barrier. The moisturization was amped up by adding contemporary ingredients like hyaluronic acid, glycerin and urea. The moisture barrier, which prevents hydration from escaping, was strengthened by adding sunflower seed cake, barley extract and cucumber extract.
“The skin is being assaulted in a different way and that is why the skin needs the increased strength,” Greene said. “If a moisturizer wears longer, it protects your skin longer so your skin can stay stronger.”
Just to make sure that there would not be a customer revolt, Clinique surveyed 1,600 “existing, lapsed and competitive users” in five countries — the U.S., U.K., France, China and Japan. The verdict? They “loved it,” Greene remarked. To make the point on the need for a strong moisture barrier, Clinique shot an ad showing a DDML bottle resting inside a water-filled balloon. To make the redone product more tempting, the price was raised by only $1 — from $25 to $26 for a 4.2-oz bottle.
In the U.S., Dramatically Different Moisturizing Lotion+ will be launched in August supported by TV and print advertising in the September issues of magazines. In Clinique’s 149 markets around the world, the product will roll out between July and September.
While the company does not divulge budgets or sales forecasts, industry sources estimate that Clinique is making a huge effort. They calculate that the global war chest for total advertising and promotion could hit $80 million for the first full year. This could generate retail sales of $300 million for the first full year, industry sources calculate.
@pantone announced their Color of the Year 2018: Ultra Violet. Nearly 20 months after the musician Prince’s death, fashion is having a purple moment. Varying shades of purple appeared on spring or fall runways, from @christopherkane to @calvinklein. @gucci’s Alessandro Michele bathed his fall runway in ultra violet-colored light at one point. Pantone 18-3838 is meant to “push the boundaries of what inspires us to look upward and outward to the future.” #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@badgalriri’s @fentybeauty launch in September was a massive success on social media, powering $72.9 million of earned media value, according to Tribe Dynamics. The brand’s foundation offering sparked conversations about diversity in beauty, launching the growth of emerging influencers and propelling the brand’s support on social media. Today, #fentybeauty won Launch of the Year at the WWD #BeautyIncAwards. (📷: Chema Moya/EPE-EFE)
@marianna_hewitt has become one of the most influential content creators in the beauty space, with almost 800,000 Instagram followers and a newly launched skin care line called @SummerFridays. Today, she was awarded Influencer of the Year at the WWD #BeautyIncAwards. (📸: @sophiachabbott )
As shopping behaviors evolve, the retail experience must follow. Head over to retail experts @colliersinternational’s Knowledge Leader series to read more about the shift in our shopping era. #colliersretail #lovecolliers
@prada opened a pop-up club, called Prada Double Club, in collaboration with German artist Cartsen Höller at @artbasel Miami. Last night, guests – including @youngparis, @ritaora and even Miuccia Prada herself – gathered in a former ice factory where the pop-up is housed for a performance from @wyclefjean. Go to WWD.com for full coverage on all the exhibits, parties and more at #ArtBaselMiami. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
@louboutinworld and @disney are making magic once again, creating a set of shoe designs for the release of “Star Wars: The Last Jedi.” Louboutin designed a pair of shoes for each of the film’s four female leads: Rey (@daisyridrey), Vice Admiral Amilyn Holdo (@lauradern), Captain Phasma (Gwendoline Christie) and Rose Tico (@kellymarietran). The shoes will debut on Saturday at the L.A. premiere of the latest episode. #wwdfashion
Today at the #BeautyIncAwards 2017, WWD will be joined by beauty leaders from around the world as we honor this year's most innovative people, products, brands and places. Follow along here and on Twitter for live coverage from the exclusive event. #wwdsummits (📷: @elizaflorendo)
Exclusive: Beauty superinfluencer @marianna_hewitt is launching her first-ever skin care brand with her business partner @laurengores. Their new line Summer Fridays, which will be sold exclusively at summerfridays.com starting in January, is launching with just one product – a hydrating cream Jet Lag Mask. “We wanted to focus on one product that was amazing,” said Hewitt. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews
Michelin star-rated chef PJ Calapa marks his first solo endeavor with today’s opening of @scampinyc –– the new Southern Italian restaurant located in Manhattans’ Flatiron District. The upscale yet welcoming environment matches the menu, which includes two types of scampi: traditional Italian langoustines in butter and the Americanized version with shrimp over pasta 🍤 - pictured here. #wwdeye (📷: George Chinsee)