All of us—even product junkies and those lucky enough to have won the complexion genetic lottery—can use a little help when it comes to designing a skin care regimen. What do you actually need? Ideally, a little assistance in slowing down the effects of environmentally triggered and natural aging, reliable ways to fight sun exposure and moisture loss and high-intensity methods of erasing past damage. Spring’s new treatment items contain the latest ingredients, as well as some tried-and-true techniques, to help skin get healthy—and stay that way.
PREVENT The sad truth is that even if we remained inside during daylight hours or covered ourselves from head to toe, we’d still see the signs of aging. Assaults from the environment and just plain living can lead to tired-looking, slack-textured skin. Enter antioxidants, which help prevent collagen loss, sun spots, epidermal thinning and inflammation by seeking out and disarming free radicals. Lancaster’s new 365 Cellular Elixir is made with a mix of antioxidants such as green tea and green coffee, plus photosomes and ultrasomes to slow down and repair DNA damage. Dermatologist Arielle Kauvar, a clinical associate professor at New York University and director of NY Laser & Skin Care, recommends a one-two punch of sunscreen boosted with antioxidants, like Mark For Goodness Face Antioxidant Moisturizing Lotion SPF 30, made with extracts of dark chocolate and blueberries. “Sun protection alone will block UVA and UVB rays, but nothing is 100 percent effective,” she says. “Antioxidants help zap free radical damage caused by any rays that get through.”
Vitamin C, a powerful free radical fighter, is notoriously unstable, a problem 3 Lab’s Perfect Repair—which contains 12 percent of the active ingredient— addresses with an innovative airtight package. Meanwhile, Estée Lauder is launching the next generation of resveratrol in its new Re-Nutriv Ultimate Youth Creme; the company claims the extract can help slow down skin cell death by activating the SIRT-1 gene, also known as the “longevity gene.” Cosmetics chemist Ni’Kita Wilson agrees, saying that resveratrol can indeed trigger SIRT-1, which helps cells live longer.
Elasticity and moisture, of course, are also key elements to healthy, youthful skin. Chanel HydraMax + Active Moisture Cream claims to boost both, thanks to a Moroccan carob tree extract that can stimulate the skin’s own defense mechanisms. It also contains matriptase enzyme, which helps defend the skin’s barrier and maintain hydration levels. All skin types, even oily, can benefit from such measures, says Kauvar. “This type of protection is ideal for use in dry environments,” she says. “It would also be helpful after peels or retinoids, to reduce irritation.” PROTECT Sun exposure and irritation are notorious skin saboteurs, but giving them the boot is a bit easier thanks to novel ingredient combinations. The single most important step is sun protection, says Kauvar, who recommends choosing the highest SPF available. “The FDA just came out with guidelines for rating UVA protection, since SPF currently only measures for UVB,” she says. “We should have a ruling sometime this spring, which will outline the labeling rules; each product will have to clearly state its level of UVB as well as UVA defense. Companies will have to comply within 18 months.” In the meantime, myriad options provide protection against both kinds of harmful rays and contain added skin-loving ingredients. SkinMedica Environmental Defense Sunscreen SPF 30+ is made with hyaluronic acid to moisturize and antioxidant green tea to protect, while MD Skincare Powerful Sun Protection SPF 45 Sunscreen Cream contains chelators to remove iron from tap water and perspiration that can clog pores. Priori Daily Defense SPF 30 is enhanced with lactic acid to help hydrate; Skinceuticals Active UV Defense Sunscreen is fortified with dermatologist darling mexoryl, an ingredient lauded for its UVA-absorbing action.
Nixing moisture loss and irritation are also important steps in preventing damage. The lightweight gel formula of Guerlain Super Aqua-Day Refreshing Cream provides SPF 10 and leaves behind a matte finish while boosting water retention; its key ingredient is an extract of the desert rose, a plant that maintains its hydration levels and cellular function even in the driest of environments. To address irritation and inflammation caused by weather, peels or laser treatments, Skyn Iceland Pure Cloud Cream is packed with a cocktail of calming components, including bisabolol (extracted from chamomile) and oat. Peptides are also included to increase endorphins, which can mitigate feelings of heat and pain. Deborah Scott, M.D., director of the department of dermatology at Brigham and Women’s Hospital in Boston, claims that these ingredients can also be beneficial for mild rosacea sufferers, thanks to their gentle soothing abilities.
REPAIR What can be done once those signs of time start making their presence known? Not too long ago, peptides became the buzzword among beauty insiders, and their reputation remains formidable when it comes to promoting youthful skin texture. “The goal is to increase collagen production and decrease its breakdown,” says Kauvar. “Peptides are amino acid chains that slow down MMP enzymes, which break down collagen and elastin.” Isomers Sirtuin Telomere Supporting Concentrate contains telomerase and sirtuin enzymes, which are both thought to prolong cells’ lives, plus a peptide complex to increase elasticity and plump up skin. Likewise, Avon Anew Ultimate Age Repair Cream contains sirtuins to help aging skin function in a more youthful manner, and has the added advantage of UVA/UVB protection. S Solutions Wrinkle Arrest HP 15 serum boasts a 15 percent concentration of argireline, recognized for its ability to “freeze” expression lines, along with a potent, tongue-twisting blend of peptides. “Argireline acts almost like topical Botox—it helps prevent muscles from contracting, and all the peptides will increase collagen production,” says Wilson. “It should take a few days to kick in, and its effects will cease when you stop using it.” Dior, too, is embracing new technology. Its Capture R 60/80 XP Ultimate Wrinkle Restoring Crème claims to trigger the production of new collagen by preserving and maximizing the life of adult stem cells in the basal layer of the skin.
Some companies have opted to use trusty, recognizable ingredients in new combinations to yield desired results. Lancôme Absolue BX Serum launches a multifaceted attack to mend slack texture, dryness and uneven tone: It features a sugar by-product called xylose, which is notorious for attracting and retaining water; hydroxyapatite, which breaks down into calcium to repair and strengthen skin, and kojic acid to reduce the appearance of sun spots. To address lines and elasticity loss in vulnerable areas, VMV Hypoallergenics Glykeros Eye and Lip Lift Contour Serum is fortified with dermatology mainstays glycolic acid and kinetin; according to Scott, the gentle exfoliation process from the glycolic acid helps reduce the look of fine lines by sweeping away dead cells and assists the penetration of other ingredients as well.
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye
"Nowadays when life is not so happy with everything going on in the world, I think people come to me for a little bit of whimsy and color and fun." - Designer Rebecca De Ravenel on her cult-favorite jewelry line. (📸 : @vsteves) #wwd40
“Everyone is talking about how the retail industry is struggling, but I think it’s an incredible time because brands who are doing something different and innovative are setting themselves up for the future,” said @adamgoldston, who founded the luxury athletic brand @apl with his brother @ryangoldsten. The Goldston’s are part of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables. See the rest of the list on WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
@eyeswoon blogger Athena Calderone debuted her first-ever cookbook, “Cook Beautiful,” which is heavily centered on the presentation and visual expression of food. Pictured here are her miso glazed carrots from the book. Get the recipe on WWD.com. (📷: @johnny_miller_) #wwdeye
“It’s passion that helps get anybody to a certain point and it’s what’s propelled me,” said Kith founder @ronniefieg, one of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables who are changing the face of retail, fashion and beauty. Fieg, who opened a Manhattan flagship on October 7, began his career at age 13 as a stock boy and salesman for footwear chain David Z. “I think staying true to [my] beliefs, hard work and passion have gotten me to where [Kith] is today.” See the rest of the 40 at WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
25-year-old @samweaving is about to break out this fall, starring in Netflix’s horror film “The Babysitter,” fittingly out today on Friday the 13th. That’s not the only place you’ll be seeing her, though — Weaving’s got a role Showtime’s “SMILF” and another alongside Frances McDormand and Woody Harrelson in “Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri.” Though she’s got a full plate at the moment, there’s one role she’s got her eye on: Marilyn Monroe. “I’m a little too young at the moment, but it’s on my bucket list,” the actress told WWD (📷: @dandoperalski) #wwdeye
BFF's Poppy Jamie and Suki Waterhouse celebrated the launch of their bag line Pop x Suki at Nordstrom last night. "The line is really about our friendship, and how we are so different but complement each other," said Waterhouse. 👯 (📷: Katie Jones) #wwdeye
After designing the new @louisvuitton and @bulgariofficial flagships and a @chanelofficial boutique opening in Japan, @petermarinoarchitect has another project on his plate: The Lobster Club. Located in the Seagram Building, it’s the famed architect’s first restaurant project in New York, serving up modern Japanese brasserie-style cuisine. Bronze hues, bespoke material detailing, blush and chartreuse tones and a heavy emphasis on Picasso can be seen throughout. Mark your calendars for Nov. 1 for the much-anticipated opening. (📷: @clint_spaulding) #wwdeye
Did you know: @carlychaikin of "Mr. Robot" has been painting for about a decade? The actress, who plays Darlene on the show, is a self-taught artist who lists Salvador Dalí and Chuck Close as some of her idols. Chaikin told WWD that painting is a form of meditation for her — A much-needed one given the intensity of "Mr. Robot." See a piece Chaikin is working on at WWD.com (📷: @jilliansollazzo) #wwdeye