Patti Pao's trip to a Norwegian salmon hatchery planted an idea for a beauty business.After seeing the hands of the workers who herded salmon fry from a synchronized hatching process into their next holding tank, Pao, who has a beauty background that spans Avon, Elizabeth Arden and Guerlain, was stunned."Everyone's hands were in this hatching water…their hands looked like they were 20, and their faces looked a lot older," Pao said.Her line, Restorsea, was born after Pao teamed with academics affiliated with the lab to take the water from the hatching zone, which contains an enzyme Restorsea calls Aquabeautine XL that helps the salmon break out of their shells, and pumped it into her products, she said.[caption id="attachment_11108447" align="aligncenter" width="400"] Salmon hatching process.[/caption]"They can't peck their way out like a chicken, so the enzyme dissolves the eggshell and creates the opening," Pao said. "When you apply this enzyme in a concentrated state to human skin it has the same effect….It's the only exfoliator that we know of that selectively cleaves. It only digests the dead skin cells and leave the other skin in tact."Launched in 2012, Restorsea has 53 high-net-worth backers and has raised $55 million in capital. Pao holds exclusive rights to the enzyme.After a brief stint in Bergdorf Goodman, Pao changed up the brand's strategy — and moved it out of retail."I didn't stop to think, 'Is my brand really a retail brand?'" Pao said. After that, Restorsea went direct-to-consumer and brought on actress Gwyneth Paltrow as the spokeswoman."The strategy was very effective in terms of building brand awareness," Pao said. But the upkeep around a celebrity as the face of the brand was too expensive."[I decided] to go back to the bench and create another line — a medical grade skin-care line designed for sensitive-skin patients who can't tolerate prescription Retin-A or suffer from eczema and rosacea and…to sell that line to doctors."Right now, the brand is in about 120 offices, and said to be doing about $3 million in sales. Pao's plan is to get the line into 300 offices in the next two years —in that time frame, it's likely Restorsea will get up to $10 million in sales, according to industry sources.According to Pao, the doctor channel, which she approached by starting at the top with leading dermatologists and plastic surgeons, is working. "All of the medical-grade brands are sold online, through Amazon, through spas — [doctors] were tired of recommending brands to have the patients buy elsewhere," Pao said.But Pao isn't looking to just keep the Aquabeautine XL technology with Restorsea and in doctor's offices — she's looking to license it out and potentially to help licensors with product development. The idea is that Restorsea would remain the most potent line with the most Aquabeautine XL, while other products could be developed with less potent yet still effective formulations and a different price point and branding strategy."We're finally at the point where we can actually seriously embark on phase two, which is to license our IP to a big institutional investor or to a strategic investor," Pao said. Those plans to not include a sale of Restorsea, Pao said.
Supermodel @helenachristensen teamed up with longtime friend and designer @camillastaerk on a joint @paredeyewear collaboration. The lineup features three styles and 11 offerings, all of which embody a vintage feel. Get all the details on how they celebrated the collab on WWD.com. #wwdaccessories #wwdeye (📷: @slovekinpics)
“It’s a hard industry to keep motivated, as well, so finding different subjects and people is what makes it worth it – when you’re like, oh, I’ve met great people, I feel like I’ve done something good, and I feel proud of having done this,” said French actress Stacy Martin on being grateful for the variety of roles she’s take on. Read @ktauer’s full interview with Martin on her her latest film “Godard Mon Amour.” #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)
After showing in front of the Eiffel Tower for his last two women’s ready-to-wear collection, it looks like @anthonyvaccarello may be heading to the Big Apple. Sources say the designer will stage his next @ysl show in NYC on June 6. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
EXCLUSIVE: Two and half months after John Targon, cofounder and codesigner of Baja East, was hired as creative director of the contemporary division at Marc Jacobs, he has left the company, WWD has learned. Marc Jacobs International, which is owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, confirmed Targon’s departure in a statement: “John Targon is a talented designer and we appreciate the work he has done here. Ultimately working together did not make sense for the brand and we wish him the best.” Read the story by @jessiredale, link in bio. #wwdnews
@theluxurycollection is officially launching a collection, tapping Sofia Sanchez de Betak for the capsule. Over 30 styles will be featured in the Chufy x The Luxury Collection, debuting next month at Bergdorf Goodman, The Webster, FiveStory and more. De Betak, known as “@chufy,” drew inspiration for the collection from her trips to Japan in the past year #wwdfashion
@lhd, founder and CEO of @thewebster, has teamed up with @lebonmarcherivegauche for the European launch of her ready-to-wear line, LHD. The launch will come with an exclusive pop-up opening today that’s set to run through May 20. Located on the second floor, it carries her debut Miami-themed resort collection, launched in November as see-now-buy-now. #wwdfashion