Patti Pao's trip to a Norwegian salmon hatchery planted an idea for a beauty business.After seeing the hands of the workers who herded salmon fry from a synchronized hatching process into their next holding tank, Pao, who has a beauty background that spans Avon, Elizabeth Arden and Guerlain, was stunned."Everyone's hands were in this hatching water…their hands looked like they were 20, and their faces looked a lot older," Pao said.Her line, Restorsea, was born after Pao teamed with academics affiliated with the lab to take the water from the hatching zone, which contains an enzyme Restorsea calls Aquabeautine XL that helps the salmon break out of their shells, and pumped it into her products, she said."They can't peck their way out like a chicken, so the enzyme dissolves the eggshell and creates the opening," Pao said. "When you apply this enzyme in a concentrated state to human skin it has the same effect….It's the only exfoliator that we know of that selectively cleaves. It only digests the dead skin cells and leave the other skin in tact."Launched in 2012, Restorsea has 53 high-net-worth backers and has raised $55 million in capital. Pao holds exclusive rights to the enzyme.After a brief stint in Bergdorf Goodman, Pao changed up the brand's strategy — and moved it out of retail."I didn't stop to think, 'Is my brand really a retail brand?'" Pao said. After that, Restorsea went direct-to-consumer and brought on actress Gwyneth Paltrow as the spokeswoman."The strategy was very effective in terms of building brand awareness," Pao said. But the upkeep around a celebrity as the face of the brand was too expensive."[I decided] to go back to the bench and create another line — a medical grade skin-care line designed for sensitive-skin patients who can't tolerate prescription Retin-A or suffer from eczema and rosacea and…to sell that line to doctors."Right now, the brand is in about 120 offices, and said to be doing about $3 million in sales. Pao's plan is to get the line into 300 offices in the next two years —in that time frame, it's likely Restorsea will get up to $10 million in sales, according to industry sources.According to Pao, the doctor channel, which she approached by starting at the top with leading dermatologists and plastic surgeons, is working. "All of the medical-grade brands are sold online, through Amazon, through spas — [doctors] were tired of recommending brands to have the patients buy elsewhere," Pao said.But Pao isn't looking to just keep the Aquabeautine XL technology with Restorsea and in doctor's offices — she's looking to license it out and potentially to help licensors with product development. The idea is that Restorsea would remain the most potent line with the most Aquabeautine XL, while other products could be developed with less potent yet still effective formulations and a different price point and branding strategy."We're finally at the point where we can actually seriously embark on phase two, which is to license our IP to a big institutional investor or to a strategic investor," Pao said. Those plans to not include a sale of Restorsea, Pao said.
Exclusive: @isabelmarant and @lorealmakeup have teamed up to create a capsule makeup collection. "She is rather natural in the day but doesn't have time to go back home before going out [in the evening] and redo her entire beauty look," said Marant on the 5 products included in the collection, which will launching in September. Read @jenniferbethweil's interview with the designer on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdbeauty
After 17 years, Tomas Maier is leaving @bottegaveneta. “I am deeply grateful to him and I personally thank him for the work he accomplished, and for the exceptional success he helped to achieve,” said François-Henri Pinault, head of parent company @kering_official. Head to WWD.com for more on his departure. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: Davide Maestri)
@shaymitchell is no stranger to teaming up with beauty brands, but she’s made her latest partnership official: She’s signed with @buxomcosmetics as global creative brand ambassador, WWD learned exclusively. Mitchell and Buxom will collaborate on campaign development, social media strategy and content and new product and shade development. Read more on WWD.com. #wwdbeauty (📷: @clint_spaulding)
Today we’re at the WWD Retail 20/20 Forum where industry leaders will be talking about the future of shopping for fashion, footwear and beauty. Tune in on Instagram Live at 9 am and 3:30 pm to hear from two of our speakers –– @therealreal’s Rati Levesque and @bandier’s Stephen Ippolito. #wwdsummits (📷: @elizaflorendo)
Seen last night at @coach’s launch party for “Life Coach,” an interactive pop-up in Soho: @joansmalls. Open now, visitors of the pop-up can engage in themes of “creativity and self-expression,” through tarot, carnival games, live performances and art. See the rest of the party pics on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @vnina)
“We figure there’s enough cynicism to go around the world right now let’s go out there and be ourselves, let’s be enthusiastic, let’s have positive energy, which is something I think a lot of people really want and need right now,” said musician @joshgroban ahead of hosting the Tony Awards with @sarabareilles. Read @leighn’s interview with Groban on how he picked his look for the night, his next record and more on WWD.com. #wwdeye #tonyawards (📷: @vnina)
“Rock as an attitude and not a uniform. Street as a style and not just clothing. Sportswear as the new normality,” @paul_surridge said of his first @roberto_cavalli men’s wear collection, previewed here. The British designer joined the brand as the creative director in May 2017, and is gearing up to unveil his debut for the label with a runway show at the Florence Charterhouse on June 13 at #PittiUomo. Head to WWD.com to read more about his collection and see more sneak peek photos. #wwdfashion (📷: @simonelezzi)