PARIS — LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, a powerhouse in women’s fashions and leather goods, is putting management muscle behind one of its underdeveloped men’s jewels: the luxury footwear specialist Berluti.
Antoine Arnault, communications director at Louis Vuitton and the 33-year-old son of LVMH chairman Bernard Arnault, is slated to take the management helm at Berluti in mid-January, WWD has learned.
His title will be managing director, in addition to his duties heading up marketing and communications at Vuitton. Vuitton’s executive vice president Pietro Beccari is becoming president of Berluti,
Neither Arnault nor Beccari could be reached for comment on Tuesday.
However, it is understood LVMH has ambitions to build Berluti into a global player in the robust luxury men’s business by expanding into ready-to-wear, travel bags and other categories.
Founded in Paris in 1895 by a transplanted Italian and famous for its shoes in unusual colors and patinas, Berluti generates an estimated 80 percent of its revenues from footwear. Its most famous style, dubbed the Alessandro after the founding cobbler, is a court shoe fashioned from a single piece of leather without any seams. It retails for 980 euros, or $1,340 at current exchange rates.
Olga Berluti, billed as one of the only female bootmakers in the world, now heads the brand’s artistic direction and is famous for cultivating the giants of French cinema, as well as the late artist Andy Warhol, as her clients.
With only about 40 locations worldwide, including franchised boutiques, Berluti also has potential to expand geographically. The business is concentrated in Western Europe, China and Japan.
An affable and enthusiastic executive, Arnault started his career with Internet startup Domainoo.com. He joined Vuitton in 2002, working in its marketing department and overseeing stores in the French provinces. He has been a member of LVMH’s board since 2006.
He was named Vuitton’s communications director in 2007, expanding its advertising footprint to television and movie theaters, and expanding its online presence with live-streaming and 360-degree imagery.
During Arnault’s tenure, the leather goods powerhouse also introduced an influential campaign dubbed “Core Values” and starring iconic personalities such as Bono, Mikhail Gorbachev and Keith Richards. He is a graduate of HEC in Montréal and also has an M.B.A. from INSEAD.
Bertrand Stalla-Bourdillon, who has piloted Berluti for 15 years, will now devote his full attention to Marc Jacobs International, where he is president and chief executive officer. Pierre Bouissou, who had been Berluti’s managing director, is expected to take up a new post at LVMH.
The succession plan for Arnault’s communication role at Vuitton has yet to be defined.
“What he has done at Vuitton is really exceptional,” said @gameofthrones’ actress Gwendoline Christie on @mrkimjones’ final show for @louisvuitton. “He has rebooted luxury in terms of making it commercial, viable and contemporary. And most importantly artistic. He has never compromised his artistic vision for the sake of commodity.” (📷: @zefashioninsider)
After seeing a demand for men’s wear from its customers, British contemporary women’s wear label @ariesarise has added a men’s wear component and will launch a unisex collection with @mrporterlive. The 20-piece collection includes jackets, denim, logo T-shirts and more with deconstructed ‘90s vibes. Set to launch on January 18, you can shop the pieces on Aries’ website and on mrporter.com. #wwdfashion
“And so spending so much time with a character who thinks like that, inevitability you try and analyze yourself and go back and think about your own demons and dark chapters that you had in your life,” says @thedanielbruhl of his role in TNT’s “The Alienist.” The show, set in the Gilded Age of New York, also stars Dakota Fanning and Luke Evans. Head to WWD.com to read about how 39-year-old Brühl prepared for the role and why he thinks the show is so relevant to today #wwdeye ( 📷: @Eriktanner)
Now that Celine Dion’s collection has topped $10 million in sales, the pop superstar, fashion icon and newly-minted industry player is eyeing growth in Asia. Read the full report by @tiffanyap, link in bio. #wwdnews #celinedion
“My personal philosophy to beauty is paying attention to oneself. I love to be outdoors, lots of fresh air, trying to take care of yourself as best you can. I always notice that comes through,” says Felicity Jones, the global face of @shiseido-owned @cledepeaubeauteus, which launches today. Head to WWD.com to read more about the actress’ love for beauty and how she prepared for her new role in “The Basis of Sex,” playing the young Ruth Bader Ginsburg. #wwdbeauty (📷: @dandoperalski)
Among the familiar faces at @off____white’s show was a surprise figure: Japanese artist @takashipom, pictured here on Wednesday morning. Other show-goers included @jerrylorenzo, who spoke about his upcoming project: a @nike collaboration for back to school, with designs inspired by his childhood on the West Coast. Sitting in the front row were Future, Don Crawley, @miguel and more. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: Stephane Feugere)
According to @laurentsai, former “Terrace House: Aloha State” cast member, she didn’t know she was auditioning for the Japanese version of “Real World.” “I was telling a couple of my friends and someone’s like, ‘That sounds a lot like Terrace House.’ I was like, ’No it can’t be.’” Turns out, it was. But Tsai isn’t just a reality star — she’s an illustrator who has worked with Starbucks Japan and most recently, she’s dipping her toes into the fashion world. Head to WWD.com to read about her time on the show, modeling and her art. #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)
More changes are coming to New York Fashion Week: Beginning with the spring 2019 collection, @alexanderwangny will move his New York show to June from September, adopting a biannual schedule with collections shown in June and December. Additionally, the @cfda is planning for an official summer/winter fashion season taking place as soon as June and December 2018. Read more about the upcoming changes on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @slovekinpics)