MILAN — After three years of relatively stagnant sales, the Italian beauty market is picking up the pace.
Beauty sales in the domestic Italian market increased 2.9 percent to hit 9 billion euros, or $12.31 billion at average exchange, this year, according to final figures released at a press conference last week by Unipro, the Italian association for cosmetics firms.
Export sales rose by 4 percent to total 2.35 billion euros, or $3.21 billion.
"The increased value of our export sales confirms that our industry is in good health and is particularly competitive toward foreign markets," said Fabio Franchina, Unipro's president. "Italy has solidified its status as the sixth biggest producer of cosmetics in the world with its research, innovation and a heightened attention on service."
Reflecting the market's internal trends, statistics compiled by Unipro showed the industry's fastest-growing channels were pharmacy and herbal stores — which grew by 8.5 percent and 8 percent, respectively, in the last half of this year.
The perfumery channel, which registered growth of 2.7 percent in the last six months of 2007, is predicted by Unipro to gain traction by mid-2008 and show a rise of 2 percentage points on its total sales. — Stephanie Epiro
EU OKs Liquid Products From Singapore
LONDON — The European Commission on Thursday adopted a regulation that will allow passengers who buy liquid-based products in Singapore airport and transfer to a flight at a European Union airport to take those products aboard their connecting flight.
Under regulations introduced last year in response to an alleged terrorist plot involving liquid explosives, passengers who buy a liquid- or gel-based product in non-EU airport travel retail stores have to forfeit the product if they take a connecting flight at an EU airport. Singapore airport is the first location to receive an exemption on the regulation. It will likely come into play in early January.
"The Commission was able to grant this exemption for liquids bought at Singapore airport because the national authorities have demonstrated that their security measures were as good as ours," said Jacques Barrot, vice president of the Commission responsible for transport, in a statement. "We hope that [the] decision will encourage other countries to do the same, and so have a snowball effect."Other countries have asked for similar exceptions, the statement said.
L'Oréal Taps New Social Relations Director
PARIS — Bertrand de Senneville has been named L'Oréal's director of social relations, starting Jan. 1.
He will succeed Jean-Marie Ladurée, who is retiring after 22 years in the post.
De Senneville became the assistant director of social relations this year. Prior to that, he held numerous other positions at the French beauty giant, including director of administration and operations for the group and for Europe; director of operations for the consumer products division in France, and finance director for L'Oréal in Germany.
In his new role as director of social relations, de Senneville will report to Geoff Skingsley, L'Oréal's executive vice president of human resources. — Jennifer Weil
Rocher Plans 'Ecological' Hotel
PARIS — Groupe Yves Rocher is getting into the hotel business. But, true to the company's heritage, it's in a green fashion.
The natural beauty maker and retailer, based in Issy-les-Moulineaux, France, plans to open a 25,555-square-foot "ecological" hotel, replete with a 3,333-square-foot spa and 29 guest rooms, in the first quarter of 2009.
It is to be located on 22 acres in Grée Saint Jean, France, and will use renewable energy and natural materials — among other sustainable practices. — J.W.
London’s newly opened @designmuseum will look back on the life and work of Azzedine Alaïa in a show that the designer helped to curate before he died of heart failure last month. The retrospective, which Alaïa had worked on with Mark Wilson, chief curator of the @groningermuseum, will look at the impact of his work worldwide. The show, “Azzedine Alaïa: The Couturier,” will run from May 10 to October 7. Read more about the exhibit on WWD.com #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @zefashioninsider)
@Pharrell and his wife Helen Lasichanh were among the stars that came out to celebrate @rimowa’s first pop-up concept shop. The space, which is located on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills, draws inspiration from airport luggage carousels and lounge areas – and features the company’s luggage and accessories. If the pop-up is successful it could pave the way for addition temporary shops throughout the world. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA)
@carineroitfeld celebrated @crfashionbook’s first calendar last night with a dinner party at Spring Place in Manhattan. Photographed by @stevenkleinstudio, the calendar takes on a fitness theme and features @joansmalls, @gigihadid, @danielle_herrington_ – pictured here – and more. “[Carine Roitfeld] wanted me to feel sexy and she wanted me to be myself and feel it out on my own and do what I felt was right,” said Herrington, aka Miss October. #wwdeye
@saintrecords and @virgilabloh last night at @americanexpress’ “A Night With Success Makers” event. “I always bring it back to community because without that I wouldn’t have the courage,” said Knowles when asked how she has gotten where she is now. Read more highlights from their conversation on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @lizdoupnik)
This Just In: Industry sources have told WWD that Anastasia Soare is rumored to be considering selling her beauty business, @anastasiabeverlyhills. According to those sources, Soare has tapped investment bank Imperial Capital to explore sale options for her eponymous beauty brand –– and with at least $340 million in net sales, this would be a big deal. Put in context of other recent transactions for makeup companies, Soare’s price tag could be in the billions if she were to sell the whole thing. #wwdnews #wwdbeauty (📷: @clint_spaulding)
@assouline’s latest book, “The Spirit of Bentley: Be Extraordinary” captures the adventurous attitudes and opulent lifestyles of @bentleymotors’ most creative owners and enthusiasts throughout the U.K. The 292-page hardcover has a section dedicated to showing its team of skilled artisans and photos of its most colorful owners, from George Bamford to designer @alicetemperley, pictured here by Aline Coquelle. #wwdeye
@google released its report on the most popular search terms this year. For fashion brands, the list was led by @gucci, the luxury brand that stunned the market last October when it pledged to stop using fur. Runner ups were @supremenewyork and @fashionnova, along with more established brands like @louisvuitton, @chanelofficial and @ysl. #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
In yet another fashion show shuffle, @elleryland is moving its show in sync with the Paris couture calendar — though the brand is still keeping one foot on the city’s ready-to-wear schedule. Their runway show in January will coincide with the launch of a new strategy: designing two main collections each year instead of four, which will then be released in four drops. “As we all know, the system needs to change. We need to show sooner to give time back to artisans and designers to do what they do best — create,” said founder Kym Ellery. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@maxmara’s classic 101801 coat was the cornerstone of its pre-fall 2018 collection. The design team expanded the traditional double-breasted, kimono-sleeved style into a trapeze coat, lean belted styles and a peacoat and presented them in monochromatic looks – like the camel one pictured here. #wwdfashion #prefall18 (📷: George Chinsee)