PARIS — Lanvin has tapped ex-Moschino chief executive officer Thierry Andretta as executive vice president.
WWD first reported Jan. 9 that Andretta was a candidate to succeed Paul Deneve at the fast-growing French house.
Deneve, whose title was deputy general manager, exited Lanvin at the end of last year, with the company citing “diverging points of view” on the direction of the fashion house, which is controlled by Taiwanese publishing magnate Shaw-Lan Wang. It is understood that Asian expansion and lack of expansion capital were among contentious issues.
Andretta, who has also held senior management posts at Gucci Group and LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, left Moschino at the end of 2008 after two years in charge.
In 2007, consolidated sales at Moschino grew 9 percent to 136.9 million euros, or $187.7 million, accounting for 46.7 percent of parent Aeffe’s total revenues. Sales slowed marginally in the first nine months of 2008, growing 8.1 percent to 114.2 million euros, or $173.9 million, or 47.6 percent of Aeffe’s overall turnover. Dollar figures are converted at average exchange rates for the periods to which they refer.
Deneve joined Lanvin in 2006 and saw rapid growth for the Paris firm, propelled by designer Alber Elbaz’s designs, and an improving financial picture. In an interview last October, Deneve said Lanvin was on track to become a $200 million fashion house in 2008, with growth forecast at 30 percent last year.
The gains reflect a retooling of the supply chain, strides in leather goods and a rejuvenated men’s wear business.
Lanvin posted 2007 revenues of 108.6 million euros, or $148.9 million, not including royalty income of 3.7 million euros, or $5.1 million.
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast