MILAN — Aeffe SpA has promoted Nicholas Kirkwood to the postof creative director of the Pollini brand, which will focus on its coreaccessories business and shutter its apparel division.
TheItalian manufacturer — which, in addition to Pollini, produces anddistributes collections for Alberta Ferretti, Moschino, Jean PaulGaultier and Cacharel — tapped Kirkwood to spearhead Pollini’saccessories division in May 2008. At the time, Jonathan Saunders alsojoined Pollini as ready-to-wear director, but he has since left thecompany. The two men succeeded Rifat Ozbek at the end of his four-yearcontract.
Kirkwood’s first collection for Pollini will bow forspring during Milan Fashion Week later this month.
“This is aprecise signal for the future of the brand,” said Massimo Ferretti,executive chairman of Aeffe. “The Pollini world is associated withaccessories, and this decision shows that we want to recover the labeland position it accordingly.”
Ferretti contended that expandingwith apparel “was a great operation, but it diluted the brand.”
Aeffetook control of Pollini at the end of 2000 and introduced an apparelline in 2003. Pollini produces accessories for the brands in the Aeffestable.
Ferretti said Aeffe’s new focus on Pollini will helpfurther dispel recent rumors that he was set on selling the brand. Theexecutive conceded accessories in the first half “suffered the most,”and hoped this decision will help bring the brand back on track. In thefirst six months of the year, sales of rtw dropped 4.9 percent, totaling85.8 million euros, or $114.1 million, while sales of footwear andleather goods declined 19.2 percent to 22.3 million euros, or $29.6million.
Kirkwood, who hails from London’s Central Saint Martins,won the Who’s on Next talent search in 2007 as best accessoriesdesigner, was Footwear News’ Designer of the Year in 2008 and is aBritish Fashion Award nominee for accessories design.
In his newpost, Kirkwood is set to launch a project called “Pollini ForwardDesigners,” a collaboration with five emerging designers he selected.Pollini will produce shoes for their spring shows and thus help themexpand their brands, as none has a shoe line yet. The designers are:Preen, who showed on Sept. 12 in New York; Meadham Kirchhoff, Michaelvan der Ham and Louise Gray, who show in London, and Manish Arora, whoshows in Paris. These collections will be available in Pollini storesbeginning in February.
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion
Eighty degree temperatures and outdoor installations at the annual Art Basel Miami Beach called for bright, elevated beachwear. See more street style pictures on WWD.com. #theyarewearing #ABMB (📷: @lifeinreverie)
Following September’s emotional tribute to her brother Gianni, Donatella Versace wanted to bring the spring show’s deep sense of intimacy to her @versace_official pre-fall collection. Donatella found inspiration in Versace Palazzo in Milan and from Gianni’s opulent apartment. Archival patterns and new motifs were splashed on silk shirtdresses and fitted jersey frocks. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com. #wwdfashion
Demna Gvasalia continues to shake up the Paris fashion calendar — and experiment with new runway timetables for his @vetements_official brand. WWD has learned that Vetements plans to stage its next coed show for the fall 2018 season on January 19 during Men’s Fashion Week in the French capital. Details about the timing and venue have not been confirmed — stay tuned on WWD.com to catch the latest. #wwdnews (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
@zacposen's go-to holiday gift? Cookies! "I'll usually bake cookies and send them as a gift," said the designer, who recently released his cookbook "Cooking With Zac: Recipes from Rustic to Refined." Get the recipe for his Brown Butter-Chocolate Chip Cookies via link in bio 🍪🍪🍪 #wwdeye #cookingwithzac
For @monsemaison’s pre-fall 2018 collection, Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim honed in on the brand’s many signatures — men’s wear, which was tweaked and feminized through deconstruction, proportion play and lots of bare shoulders. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
On Friday night, @yohjiyamamotoofficial received the Design for Asia Lifetime Achievement Award in Hong Kong. The 75-year-old designer has been celebrated for many years and is best known for his dark and avant-garde tailoring. “In my long career, in design, architecture, [I’ve been to] so many parties, this is the very first time that I have such a warm feeling, I really appreciate this,” Yamamoto said. #wwdfashion (📷: @dominiquemaitre)