MILAN — Aeffe SpA said Wednesday that sales in 2013 declined 1.2 percent to 251.1 million euros, or $331.4 million, compared with 254.1 million euros, or $325.2 million, in 2012. At constant exchange, sales would have increased 1.2 percent, and, net of the effects of the already terminated licenses of Jean Paul Gaultier and Cacharel and the new license with Emanuel Ungaro, revenues would have gained 3.9 percent.
Aeffe controls the Moschino, Alberta Ferretti and Pollini brands, and produces and distributes collections for brands including Emanuel Ungaro and Cédric Charlier.
Massimo Ferretti, executive chairman, underscored that the company has been changing the group’s creative offer. The moves include the Cédric Charlier project and the upgrade of the Alberta Ferretti collections, also leading to the appointment of Natalie Ratabesi for Philosophy, to the Emanuel Ungaro project developed by Fausto Puglisi, and, most recently, the arrival of Jeremy Scott, who will present his first collection for Moschino on Feb. 20.
“The change within the creative side along with the highest attention to both the online and the traditional retail channels, with a special focus on the more dynamic markets with greater growth potential, lead us to redesign the future in an optimistic way in the medium-long term run,” said Ferretti.
In the year, sales of ready-to-wear collections were up 0.8 percent to 196.9 million euros, or $260 million, while revenues of the footwear and leather goods division grew 3.5 percent 71.9 million euros, or $94.9 million.
Sales in Italy grew 5.2 percent to 104 million euros, or $137.3 million, accounting for 41 percent of total revenues. While citing the contribution of tourist flows, the company said “the positive trend of the domestic market is attributable to both an increase in sales registered by the Moschino brand, mostly thanks to the positive results of the new boutique in Rome, and to the growth of licensed brands.”
Dollar amounts are converted at average exchange for the periods to which they refer.
Sales in Europe were down 7 percent, representing 20 percent of total. “This change is mainly attributable to the decrease in revenues from licensed brands whose license agreement have already been completed and the uncertainty of the macro-economic situation,” said the company. Revenues in Russia were down 8.4 percent and accounted for 8 percent. Sales in the U.S., contributing to 7 percent of total, decreased 10.9 percent, mainly due to the termination of the licensing agreement with Jean Paul Gaultier.
Sales in Japan were down 9.4 percent, contributing to 9 percent of total, but were up 12.1 percent at constant exchange rates.
In the Rest of the World, revenues climbed 4.8 percent and represented 15 percent of total, thanks to positive trends in Greater China (up 20 percent) and the Middle East (up 7 percent).
There'll be no rest for those headed to Europe for men's, as Paris just closed the gap with Milan. According to a provisional calendar released by the Chambre Syndicale, Paris Men's Week will now open a day earlier on January 16. See new highlights on the official lineup on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
BREAKING: Jonathan Saunders is leaving @DVF. The designer has resigned from his position as chief creative officer of Diane von Furstenberg, the company said in a statement on Friday. At the time of his hire, von Furstenberg said Saunders’ arrival symbolized and facilitated her stepping back from the day-to-day duties that occupy the work of a full-time creative director. The British designer joined DVF in May 2016 and was in charge of all product categories. #wwdnews
For @versace_official’s spring ad campaign, the brand emphasized the archival prints from the spring tribute collection dedicated to the late Gianni Versace. Closing out the show were five of Gianni’s favorite models: Cindy, Naomi, Carla, Helena, and Claudia. Bowing on December 18, the new campaign is yet another tribute to supermodel-dom as the images by Steven Meisel are fronted by @iamnaomicampbell, @cturlington, @gisele and more. #wwdfashion
Four-time Oscar-nominated actress Annette Bening has been waiting 20 years to play Gloria Graham in "Film Stars Don't Die in Liverpool," which will be released on December 29. The movie about Graham – a Hollywood star known for her controversial relationship with a younger Englishman named Peter Turner – is based off a memoir Turned wrote. "She felt vulnerable to him, because she loved him, she really did love him. And anyone that we really truly are in love with, we re vulnerable to in a very deep way," said Bening. Read our full interview with the modern icon of an actress on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @ninebagatelles; Styled by @cristinaehrlich)
The crisp white button down: a staple that can be dressed up or down and accessorized throughout the decades. Here, on a Art Basel-goer in 2017 on the left and on the iconic Audrey Hepburn in “Roman Holiday” in 1953 on the right. #tbt #wwdfashion (📷: Andrew Morales)
Known for her work with @victoriassecret, 25-year-old model @georgiafowler is raising her profile in Hollywood. Fowler stars in @vincecamuto’s holiday campaign, which launched in partnership with “Pitch Perfect 3.” “Almost every shoot with Vince Camuto, I’ve had to face a fear…It was definitely a challenge. I’m so grateful for it, though. I’ve always wanted to be a pop star, so that was the perfect chance,” Fowler said. Head to WWD.com to read about Fowler’s experience modeling, including at the #VSFashionShow, and her relationship with Nick Jonas. #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
EXCLUSIVE: Huda Kattan just became the first beauty influencer to land a major beauty deal. Kattan's business, @hudabeauty, has received a minority investment from private equity firm TSG Consumer Partners. The brand, which industry sources say is on track to do $200 million in retail sales for 2017, will receive support on product, retail and geographic expansion through the deal. Get all the details on the deal and read @_a_collins' interview with Kattan on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdbeauty #wwdnews
Peruvian model @juanaburga_official – who is known for walking the runways of @rodarte, @viviennewestwood and @torybuch – is making the move to the big screen with drama “Los Últimos.” The film premiered in Argentina in November and arrives in the U.S. and Europe in 2018. On making the switch from modeling to acting, Burga told WWD: “It’s a completely different thing – a lot of people think it’s similar or try to connect things, especially like getting used to the camera or being looked at all the time or playing these different characrers, but film is a completely different story.” #wwdeye (📷: @jgreenery)
London’s newly opened @designmuseum will look back on the life and work of Azzedine Alaïa in a show that the designer helped to curate before he died of heart failure last month. The retrospective, which Alaïa had worked on with Mark Wilson, chief curator of the @groningermuseum, will look at the impact of his work worldwide. The show, “Azzedine Alaïa: The Couturier,” will run from May 10 to October 7. Read more about the exhibit on WWD.com #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @zefashioninsider)