PARIS — Accessories buyers trolling the Who’s Next Paris, Première Classe and Bijorhca Paris trade shows here in mid-January said their budgets were flat to up on the same prior-year period.
That was the case for Nevena Borissova, founder of the Curve boutiques, who was shopping for pre-fall and eye-catching pieces “not wildly spread on the American market.”
“I’ll probably spend 10 to 15 percent more than last year,” she said.
Budgets were larger, too, for Tsum accessories and jewelry buyer Maria Dontsova, who had placed an order with Carlo Zini at Bijorhca.
“It’s [got] a lot of bling, a lot of crystals. Usually that’s what our girl is looking for — they like all the bling,” said Dontsova, adding she was also in the market for clutches and fine cashmere hats and scarves.
“We’re looking for a lot of clutches and minaudières with [plenty] of crystals,” continued Song Haldeman, head of buying office research and account manager for Harvey Nichols Hong Kong, who said budgets for the season were “stable” versus January 2012.
Griffin Chan, buyer for Harvey Nichols Hong Kong, added they were also scouting out resources for men’s clutches and formal bags. Jewelry-wise, the duo would see Bernard Delettrez at Première Classe.
Attendees from nastygal.com were hoping to expand the site’s handbag and jewelry offer. “We’re looking for more structured shapes,” said Camilla Zecchetto, nastygal.com’s nonapparel buyer. These could include top-handle satchels with futuristic details like holograms “or just interesting materials or hardware,” she explained.
They were keen on “statement piece” jewelry, continued Christina Ferrucci, buying director for the site. A brand of interest was Andrés Gallardo, which creates porcelain pieces with animal and floral motifs.
Among labels showcasing larger silhouettes at Who’s Next and Première Classe was Alienina, whose heavy cord jewelry handmade in Italy is primarily composed of recycled materials. Sveva Collection was displaying its colorful, hand-stitched embroidered crystal creations.
For winter accessories, such as scarves and hats, the Inverni, Valeur and Epice stands were bustling.
Designer Zoe Lugo exhibited some of her latest Zoe Style Design Art bags, which are made of Andean fique, among other materials.
Over at Bijorhca, Helen Zeal, director of Hummingbird London Ltd. consultancy, noted among jewelry trends vintage, friendship bracelets in more metal work, Africa-inspired pieces, variations on the cocktail ring and a larger selection of drop earrings.
Chantal Manoukian displayed her La Tonkinoise jewelry collection whose one-of-a-kind creations include old and recycled elements. Jennifer Dewavrin highlighted her Paola Zovar creations replete with interchangeable stones.
Lamai’s resin jewelry resembles porcelain with hand-drawn or -painted, nature-inspired decor and Peggy Bannenberg presented her 3-D printed jewelry, some of which was in titanium.
Murat, whose sales are primarily generated domestically, in France, has set its sights abroad now, according to Sonia Balay, who is in charge of marketing and communication at the company. Among its models shown were voluminous pieces in silver made with electroforming.
“People are still always fond of novelty,” she said.
Attendee traffic was down at the trade fairs. For Who’s Next Paris, which for the first time broke out its accessories section and placed it next to Première Classe, among other changes including the creation of a Mr. Brown Accessories segment for men, registered a 1.4 percent dip in visitors to 57,838 versus the same prior-year session. While some found the new layout confusing, others said it was clear.
“It’s more convenient for buyers now, because they put everything together,” maintained Harvey Nichols’ Haldeman.
Attendee footfall at Bijorhca Paris declined 9.4 percent against the January 2012 edition to 12,302.
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast