PARIS — Accessories buyers trolling the Who’s Next Paris, Première Classe and Bijorhca Paris trade shows here in mid-January said their budgets were flat to up on the same prior-year period.
That was the case for Nevena Borissova, founder of the Curve boutiques, who was shopping for pre-fall and eye-catching pieces “not wildly spread on the American market.”
“I’ll probably spend 10 to 15 percent more than last year,” she said.
Budgets were larger, too, for Tsum accessories and jewelry buyer Maria Dontsova, who had placed an order with Carlo Zini at Bijorhca.
“It’s [got] a lot of bling, a lot of crystals. Usually that’s what our girl is looking for — they like all the bling,” said Dontsova, adding she was also in the market for clutches and fine cashmere hats and scarves.
“We’re looking for a lot of clutches and minaudières with [plenty] of crystals,” continued Song Haldeman, head of buying office research and account manager for Harvey Nichols Hong Kong, who said budgets for the season were “stable” versus January 2012.
Griffin Chan, buyer for Harvey Nichols Hong Kong, added they were also scouting out resources for men’s clutches and formal bags. Jewelry-wise, the duo would see Bernard Delettrez at Première Classe.
Attendees from nastygal.com were hoping to expand the site’s handbag and jewelry offer. “We’re looking for more structured shapes,” said Camilla Zecchetto, nastygal.com’s nonapparel buyer. These could include top-handle satchels with futuristic details like holograms “or just interesting materials or hardware,” she explained.
They were keen on “statement piece” jewelry, continued Christina Ferrucci, buying director for the site. A brand of interest was Andrés Gallardo, which creates porcelain pieces with animal and floral motifs.
Among labels showcasing larger silhouettes at Who’s Next and Première Classe was Alienina, whose heavy cord jewelry handmade in Italy is primarily composed of recycled materials. Sveva Collection was displaying its colorful, hand-stitched embroidered crystal creations.
For winter accessories, such as scarves and hats, the Inverni, Valeur and Epice stands were bustling.
Designer Zoe Lugo exhibited some of her latest Zoe Style Design Art bags, which are made of Andean fique, among other materials.
Over at Bijorhca, Helen Zeal, director of Hummingbird London Ltd. consultancy, noted among jewelry trends vintage, friendship bracelets in more metal work, Africa-inspired pieces, variations on the cocktail ring and a larger selection of drop earrings.
Chantal Manoukian displayed her La Tonkinoise jewelry collection whose one-of-a-kind creations include old and recycled elements. Jennifer Dewavrin highlighted her Paola Zovar creations replete with interchangeable stones.
Lamai’s resin jewelry resembles porcelain with hand-drawn or -painted, nature-inspired decor and Peggy Bannenberg presented her 3-D printed jewelry, some of which was in titanium.
Murat, whose sales are primarily generated domestically, in France, has set its sights abroad now, according to Sonia Balay, who is in charge of marketing and communication at the company. Among its models shown were voluminous pieces in silver made with electroforming.
“People are still always fond of novelty,” she said.
Attendee traffic was down at the trade fairs. For Who’s Next Paris, which for the first time broke out its accessories section and placed it next to Première Classe, among other changes including the creation of a Mr. Brown Accessories segment for men, registered a 1.4 percent dip in visitors to 57,838 versus the same prior-year session. While some found the new layout confusing, others said it was clear.
“It’s more convenient for buyers now, because they put everything together,” maintained Harvey Nichols’ Haldeman.
Attendee footfall at Bijorhca Paris declined 9.4 percent against the January 2012 edition to 12,302.
@chanel and @pharrell dropped what’s being dubbed as the world’s most exclusive sneakers yesterday. The Adidas Originals NMD Hu, which Williams designed in collaboration with Chanel and @adidasoriginals, has a waiting list of over 120K people who pre-registered online at chanelatcolette.fr –– and only 500 pairs are on sale. The singer predicted the resale value of the shoes could reach $40K. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdfashion
@imanshumpert is diving deeper into his creative endeavors and relaunching his clothing line, Post 90s, and is helping to raise money for the hurricane victims in St. Maarten with a jersey he’s designed with his brother. The Cleveland Cavaliers player talked to WWD about kneeling during the national anthem, working with fashion brands and how he wants to be more than an @nba player. Read the interview on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
Not only does #TheProfit return to CNBC tonight, but @marcuslemonis has launched @shopmarcus, a new shopping and lifestyle retail experience in Aspen and Chicago, with more locations to come. The retail stores offer in-store stylists and a variety of contemporary womenswear selections.
“It’s life, I’m going to face it,” @mingxi11 sighed. “I fell, but you know, I think the most important thing is that I get back up. I had the love, the help from my sister — the girl next to me Gizele [Oliveira] — she’s so nice. When I went backstage everybody was trying to comfort me like ‘Oh Ming, it’s OK.’ I’m really, really touched. I think it’s them who gave me the courage to go back on stage for the finale,” Xi told WWD of her fall at the @victoriassecret fashion show. (📷: David Fisher) #wwdfashion #vsfashionshow #victoriassecret
@louisvuitton tapped @therealpeterlindbergh for its latest city-centric photo book, which is part of a series called Fashion Eye. The primarily black and white book captures the spirit of Berlin in 57 images shot between 1989 and 2019. “Berlin is an inspiration for me, more than a city. I mean @millajovovich is simply Berlin!” said Lindbergh. #wwdfashion
“You know, I think audiences expect a certain performance so I have to deliver to them what they’re expecting to a certain degree. But I’m also a different actor and a different person, I have my own spin on the character,” says @noahegalvin of his takeover of the leading role in “Dear Evan Hansen” following the departure of @bensplatt, who originated the role. Read WWD’s interview with the 23-year-old actor on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
For pre-fall 2018, @etro created richly-colored wonderland, using tapestries, textiles and wallpapers from the Eastern world at large. The line featured floral and graphic prints and jacquard motifs, like this two-piece look featured here. #wwdfashion (📷: Giovanna Pavesi)
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)