PARIS — Accessories buyers trolling the Who’s Next Paris, Première Classe and Bijorhca Paris trade shows here in mid-January said their budgets were flat to up on the same prior-year period.
That was the case for Nevena Borissova, founder of the Curve boutiques, who was shopping for pre-fall and eye-catching pieces “not wildly spread on the American market.”
“I’ll probably spend 10 to 15 percent more than last year,” she said.
Budgets were larger, too, for Tsum accessories and jewelry buyer Maria Dontsova, who had placed an order with Carlo Zini at Bijorhca.
“It’s [got] a lot of bling, a lot of crystals. Usually that’s what our girl is looking for — they like all the bling,” said Dontsova, adding she was also in the market for clutches and fine cashmere hats and scarves.
“We’re looking for a lot of clutches and minaudières with [plenty] of crystals,” continued Song Haldeman, head of buying office research and account manager for Harvey Nichols Hong Kong, who said budgets for the season were “stable” versus January 2012.
Griffin Chan, buyer for Harvey Nichols Hong Kong, added they were also scouting out resources for men’s clutches and formal bags. Jewelry-wise, the duo would see Bernard Delettrez at Première Classe.
Attendees from nastygal.com were hoping to expand the site’s handbag and jewelry offer. “We’re looking for more structured shapes,” said Camilla Zecchetto, nastygal.com’s nonapparel buyer. These could include top-handle satchels with futuristic details like holograms “or just interesting materials or hardware,” she explained.
They were keen on “statement piece” jewelry, continued Christina Ferrucci, buying director for the site. A brand of interest was Andrés Gallardo, which creates porcelain pieces with animal and floral motifs.
Among labels showcasing larger silhouettes at Who’s Next and Première Classe was Alienina, whose heavy cord jewelry handmade in Italy is primarily composed of recycled materials. Sveva Collection was displaying its colorful, hand-stitched embroidered crystal creations.
For winter accessories, such as scarves and hats, the Inverni, Valeur and Epice stands were bustling.
Designer Zoe Lugo exhibited some of her latest Zoe Style Design Art bags, which are made of Andean fique, among other materials.
Over at Bijorhca, Helen Zeal, director of Hummingbird London Ltd. consultancy, noted among jewelry trends vintage, friendship bracelets in more metal work, Africa-inspired pieces, variations on the cocktail ring and a larger selection of drop earrings.
Chantal Manoukian displayed her La Tonkinoise jewelry collection whose one-of-a-kind creations include old and recycled elements. Jennifer Dewavrin highlighted her Paola Zovar creations replete with interchangeable stones.
Lamai’s resin jewelry resembles porcelain with hand-drawn or -painted, nature-inspired decor and Peggy Bannenberg presented her 3-D printed jewelry, some of which was in titanium.
Murat, whose sales are primarily generated domestically, in France, has set its sights abroad now, according to Sonia Balay, who is in charge of marketing and communication at the company. Among its models shown were voluminous pieces in silver made with electroforming.
“People are still always fond of novelty,” she said.
Attendee traffic was down at the trade fairs. For Who’s Next Paris, which for the first time broke out its accessories section and placed it next to Première Classe, among other changes including the creation of a Mr. Brown Accessories segment for men, registered a 1.4 percent dip in visitors to 57,838 versus the same prior-year session. While some found the new layout confusing, others said it was clear.
“It’s more convenient for buyers now, because they put everything together,” maintained Harvey Nichols’ Haldeman.
Attendee footfall at Bijorhca Paris declined 9.4 percent against the January 2012 edition to 12,302.
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion
Eighty degree temperatures and outdoor installations at the annual Art Basel Miami Beach called for bright, elevated beachwear. See more street style pictures on WWD.com. #theyarewearing #ABMB (📷: @lifeinreverie)
Following September’s emotional tribute to her brother Gianni, Donatella Versace wanted to bring the spring show’s deep sense of intimacy to her @versace_official pre-fall collection. Donatella found inspiration in Versace Palazzo in Milan and from Gianni’s opulent apartment. Archival patterns and new motifs were splashed on silk shirtdresses and fitted jersey frocks. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com. #wwdfashion
Demna Gvasalia continues to shake up the Paris fashion calendar — and experiment with new runway timetables for his @vetements_official brand. WWD has learned that Vetements plans to stage its next coed show for the fall 2018 season on January 19 during Men’s Fashion Week in the French capital. Details about the timing and venue have not been confirmed — stay tuned on WWD.com to catch the latest. #wwdnews (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
@zacposen's go-to holiday gift? Cookies! "I'll usually bake cookies and send them as a gift," said the designer, who recently released his cookbook "Cooking With Zac: Recipes from Rustic to Refined." Get the recipe for his Brown Butter-Chocolate Chip Cookies via link in bio 🍪🍪🍪 #wwdeye #cookingwithzac
For @monsemaison’s pre-fall 2018 collection, Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim honed in on the brand’s many signatures — men’s wear, which was tweaked and feminized through deconstruction, proportion play and lots of bare shoulders. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
On Friday night, @yohjiyamamotoofficial received the Design for Asia Lifetime Achievement Award in Hong Kong. The 75-year-old designer has been celebrated for many years and is best known for his dark and avant-garde tailoring. “In my long career, in design, architecture, [I’ve been to] so many parties, this is the very first time that I have such a warm feeling, I really appreciate this,” Yamamoto said. #wwdfashion (📷: @dominiquemaitre)