Chloé has tapped a senior, but hidden, talent from Marni to succeed Phoebe Philo, WWD has learned.
According to sources, Paolo Melim Andersson will join the French fashion house later this year.
Reached late on Wednesday, a Chloé spokesman said only, "We do not comment on rumors." However, the house said recently it would make an announcement about its succession plan after its show during Paris Fashion Week.
Melim Andersson, a Swedish native who has worked at Marni for several years, will assume the design helm at one of the fastest-growing fashion firms in Europe. Despite Philo's resignation in January for personal reasons — to spend more time with her family and new baby — Chloé has continued to report solid business, relying on its in-house design team.
The fashion house's sales increased by nearly 90 percent in the April to August period, although Chloé parent Compagnie Financière Richemont recently warned that growth was slowing due to tough comparisons and that the pace for the full year probably would be lower than in the first half. Chloé's sales more than doubled in 2005.
The selection of Anderson likely is to be greeted as a logical match for Chloé — and retailers and buyers are bound to applaud the arrival of new blood. Marni, long a darling of editors and retailers, is prized for its lighthearted and feminine designs with a slight retro flavor.
In recent seasons, Marni designer Consuelo Castiglione has steered the brand in a more sophisticated direction, and it consistently has ranked among buyer favorites in Milan.
Ralph Toledano, chairman and chief executive officer of Chloé, has a track record of flushing out hidden design talents. Before joining Chloé, he headed Guy Laroche and famously recruited Alber Elbaz, now Lanvin's creative director, from the design studio of Geoffrey Beene. And when Stella McCartney exited Chloé to form a signature fashion house in partnership with Gucci Group, Toledano promoted Philo, McCartney's longtime assistant.
During Philo's maternity leave, and following her resignation, Toledano let the Chloé team pick up where she left off. And even as he quietly conducted a broad industry search, he maintained that an internal successor was possible.Toledano also has been reinforcing Chloé's design department. Last month, he tapped Emma Hill, who had been Gap Inc.'s vice president of accessories design, as an accessories consultant.
Yvan Mispelaere, a key member of the Chloé team since January 2005, is slated to take the bows for the brand at its Oct. 5 show in Paris, and then he is bowing out of the company. As reported, he is joining Frida Giannini's ready-to-wear team at Gucci in Florence.
Harrods plans to remove the famous statue of Princess Diana and Dodi Al Fayed from the bottom of the Egyptian escalators and hand it back to Mohamed Al-Fayed. “We are very proud to have played our role in celebrating the lives of Diana, Princess of Wales and Dodi Al Fayed at Harrods and to have welcomed people from around the world to visit the memorial for the past 20 years,” said Michael Ward, Harrods managing director. “With the announcement of the new official memorial statue to Diana, Princess of Wales at Kensington Palace, we feel that the time is right to return this memorial to Mr. Al Fayed and for the public to be invited to pay their respects at the palace.” More on the news, with reporting by @loreleimarfil, at WWD.com. #wwdnews
@prada is introducing a new project at its men’s fall 2018 show this Sunday: “Prada Invites.” The fashion house invited four celebrated creative minds – @ronanaerwanbouroullec, Konstantin Grcic, @herzogdemeuron and @rem.koolhaas – to each create a unique item with its iconic nylon material. The designs will be unveiled on the runway show, which will take place at the company’s warehouse in Viale Ortles 25. #wwdfashion #mfwm (📷: @martinocarrera)
@kering_official is spinning off its stake in puma in an effort to focus on its luxury brands, the brand operator announced yesterday. “We are proud to have supported the turnaround of Puma, which now has unrivaled capabilities to take full advantage of the specific dynamics of its global markets and is poised to achieve substantial growth,” said François-Henri Pinault, Kering’s chief executive officer and chairman. Artémis will become a “long-term strategic shareholder” of Puma with a 29 percent stake. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
The fashion world mourns for celebrated street style photographer, Nabile Quenum, who died at age 32 in Paris.
Quenum, creator of the fashion blog “J’ai Perdu Ma Veste,” was a fashion week fixture, and regularly shot for New York magazine’s The Cut, among other outlets, and brands such as Louis Vuitton, Moncler and Adidas. He was also actively involved in the #NoFreePhotos initiative, which kicked off in the fall. Read more about Quenum in @kbsmoke's story on WWD.com. #wwdnews
@verwanggang and @maisonladuree have teamed up on a dessert collab called Vera Wang Pour Ladurée. The collection, which launched this week, features a specialty macaroon, as well as a wedding cake inspired by one of the designer’s gowns. “I could not imagine a more delicate or sophisticated creation to grace any couple’s celebration,” said Wang. #wwdfashion