MILAN — Ermanno Scervino has signed a renewable three-year license with Italian manufacturer Viamazzini, which will produce and distribute the brand's innerwear and beachwear collections for women and men.
This is the first such license for Scervino. For men, the first underwear collection will bow for fall, while the women's line will launch with the designer's pre-collection and will comprise 90 pieces, ranging from slips to bustiers and tops. The collection will also include at-homewear items, described by Toni Scervino, chief executive officer of the Florence-based company, as "comfortable clothing pieces with a design content."
Scervino said the agreement will help expand production and distribution of items that "were always associated with our ready-to-wear, such as slips for daily use, also shown on the runway." Scervino said hand-embroidered slips in silk or pashmina that were already successful items for the brand will be further developed in different variations and produced in larger quantities.
"This can also be said of the beachwear line, with the use of the same materials and colors as those of some of our clothing pieces," said Scervino.
At the same time, he added, the license will allow Scervino to be more competitive. The ceo downplayed the effects caused by mass market and fast-fashion innerwear collections that have quickly saturated the industry. "If you propose special products, there is still room to grow," said Scervino. "In this sector, it's all either logoed-out or flat, there is not enough research, experimentation or innovation, but we must try and convey something different."
Scervino said pricing and distribution are still being finalized, but the collections will be available at the brand's boutiques and specialty stores around the world. The brand is currently carried in 500 points of sale and there are 14 namesake boutiques and 10 shop-in-shops in Europe; Russia, which is the brand's second market; Ukraine; Japan, and South Korea. The company will open a 6,480-square-foot store on London's Sloane Street early next year, followed by three boutiques in Russia, in Moscow, St. Petersburg and Samara. Also in the works is a boutique in Sochi, Russia, on the Black Sea, where the Winter Olympics will be held in 2014. Scervino said he is also planning a more focused approach to the American market, and is looking at opportunities to open a boutique in the U.S.The company, which was founded in 1999 by designer Ermanno Daelli and Scervino, registered wholesale revenues of 71 million euros, or $104.2 million, in 2006, up 40 percent compared with the previous year. Sales are expected to reach 85 million euros, or $124.7 million, in 2007. Dollar figures were converted from the euro at current exchange.
Aside from Ermanno Scervino for men, women and children, produced in-house, the company has the younger collection Scervino Street, licensed to the Treviso, Italy-based Dressing SpA.
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast