NEW YORK — The semi-annual release of the Audit Bureau of Circulation figures is a bit like an editor’s equivalent of a report card. It’s the means by which their bosses — media magnates like Cathleen Black and S.I. Newhouse...
NEW YORK — The semi-annual release of the Audit Bureau of Circulation figures is a bit like an editor’s equivalent of a report card. It’s the means by which their bosses — media magnates like Cathleen Black and S.I. Newhouse Jr. —decide whether their editors are goingoff to Harvard (i.e. getting a raise), or whether they’re being shuffled off to community college (read: getting canned).
This season’s clear loser is the teen magazine category. YM, Seventeen and Teen People all suffered precipitious declines on newsstand this year, thanks in no small part to the diminished interest in young pop stars like Britney Spears and ’NSync. But Cosmogirl managed to buck that trend (up 16.6 percent on newsstand and 46.6 percent in subscriptions), doing little to quell speculation that editor Atoosa Rubenstein may be at the top of the short list to replace Seventeen’s Annemarie Iverson if she should get the boot when Elizabeth Crow arrives at the Primedia offices as the company’s new editorial director next week. (Sources, however, say Rubenstein may wish to remain in her current job.)
Women’s fashion magazines, on the other hand, did better as Americans began to return to pre-Sept. 11 shopping habits. The only magazine from that set to post a drop on newsstands was Elle, which was down 4 percent.
Elle’s fellow Hachette Filipacchi imprint Premiere did worse. For the period, the magazine posted an 18.7 percent decline on newsstand, which possibly results more from its production cycle than any other problem. Like others, Premiere’s newsstand sales have been dropping steadily for a while thanks mainly to Entertainment Weekly and the Internet which have, through their ability to break news quickly, blasted the monthly competition. Here’s an idea: turn the monthly entertainment mags into weeklies.
The most puzzling set of numbers belonged to Men’s Journal. For the six-month-period, the magazine was up 8.2 percent on newsstands, making Jann Wenner’s recent firing of editor Sid Evans — whom he replaced this week with Bob Wallace — a bit of a head-scratcher.
As for the least surprising drop, that would have to go to the Harvard Business Review (down 21.4 percent), where former editor Suzy Wetlaufer’s affair with Jack Welch apparently did as little for the magazine’s credibility with readers as it did for her career, she got canned in the spring.Here are the biggest winners and losers in the fashion and lifestyle category, as judged by their newsstand performance for the first half.
Real Simple’s Carrie Tuhy (+40.7), Us Weekly’s Bonnie Fuller (+30.1 percent), Vogue’s Anna Wintour (+24), The New Yorker’s David Remnick (+18.8), Cosmogirl’s Atoosa Rubenstein (+16.6), Jane’s Jane Pratt (+14.7), Cosmopolitan’s Kate White (+11.5), Esquire’s David Granger (+11.5), Harper’s Bazaar’s Glenda Bailey (+11.2), Architectural Digest’s Paige Rense (+10.2), Marie Claire’s Lesley Jane Seymour (+10.6), Men’s Journal’s Sid Evans (+8.2), and W’s Patrick McCarthy (+5.5). W and Jane are sister publications of WWD.
O, The Oprah Magazine’s Amy Gross (-29.3 percent), YM’s Christina Kelly (-26.8, despite Kelly’s earlier insistence that YM would buck the sector’s downward trend); Seventeen’s Annemarie Iverson (-21.5); Out’s Brendan Lemon (-20.9); Premiere’s Peter Herbst (-18.7); GQ’s Art Cooper (-12.9 percent, continuing its downward trend, thanks to magazines like Maxim and FHM), Elle’s Roberta Myers (-4), Rolling Stone (-15.6) and Rosie (-14 percent).
In yet another fashion show shuffle, @elleryland is moving its show in sync with the Paris couture calendar — though the brand is still keeping one foot on the city’s ready-to-wear schedule. Their runway show in January will coincide with the launch of a new strategy: designing two main collections each year instead of four, which will then be released in four drops. “As we all know, the system needs to change. We need to show sooner to give time back to artisans and designers to do what they do best — create,” said founder Kym Ellery. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@maxmara’s classic 101801 coat was the cornerstone of its pre-fall 2018 collection. The design team expanded the traditional double-breasted, kimono-sleeved style into a trapeze coat, lean belted styles and a peacoat and presented them in monochromatic looks – like the camel one pictured here. #wwdfashion #prefall18 (📷: George Chinsee)
The @cfda has shifted the dates of #NYFW, with Men’s showing on February 5 through February 7, and Women’s will directly follow, running from February 8 through 14. The preliminary schedule will be released on the CFDA’s web site in the next few days, but Mark Beckham, VP of marketing for the CFDA, revealed that @rafsimons will be back to close the men’s-specific part of the week with a show on February 7 #wwdfashion (📷: Kelly Taub)
@ferragamo is introducing a new space dedicated to the development of women’s and men’s leather good samples. The laboratory, which is created eco-friendly materials and designed to reduce the environmental impact of the manufacturing processes, will allow the company to expand its accessories offering through traditional artisanal approaches. #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
How does a “regular, degular, schmegular” girl from the Bronx, N.Y., become a Grammy-nominated artist with a certified platinum record in less than a year? Call it the @iamcardib come up. The 25-year-old has become a musical sensation, and the fashion world is taking note. “If I could describe her style I would say drama. She’s really into the dramatics,” says Cardi B’s stylist @kollincarter. See how Carter styles her bold and out there looks with the link in bio. #wwdfashion
“There is no formula. There is no guideline. I can watch Ted Talks all day, but there is no one who can advise me on exactly what it is I should be doing,” said @ronniefieg, CEO of @kith, in an interview with WWD’s @ariahughes at the brand’s new SoHo office in Manhattan. Head to WWD.com to see how Fieg went from hanging out in shoe stockrooms at 13 to building his own business. #wwdfashion (📷: @weston.wells)
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion