NEW YORK -- This week's innerwear market has been living up to moderate expectations.
With the bulk of foundations buying already done for spring and early summer, the showroom traffic, as is typical in January, has been light, but makers of daywear, sleepwear, robes and loungewear said they are getting enough action to keep busy.
Manufacturers reported that merchants were in the market for immediate goods. Reorders of velours, which clicked during holiday selling, were one of the bright spots. Reflecting the ever-growing tendency to buy late, some stores are still completing spring orders as well.
This week is also giving vendors and retailers the chance to evaluate merchandise tested at stores over the holiday selling period, and to preview ideas for fall.
Makers are also promoting special programs, as they usually do in January, mainly to major buying offices. Many offer price incentives, such as 10 percent discounts if fall orders are completed by early March.
Steve Katz, vice president of I. Appel Corp., noted, "Most stores were coming in with report cards [on holiday business]. Christmas selling was mixed at department stores, but many retailers are upbeat about spring and fall."
"Traffic was moderate, but retailers were extremely enthusiastic about new products," said Gabriel N. Hakim Sr., president of Crowntuft Manufacturing, a division of Kellwood Co. "No one is leaving paper this week, but expectations are very high."
The robe manufacturer was primarily previewing fall, and Hakim said the company expects a 25 percent sales increase for the second half.
Hakim said reaction was good to three new groups. In the better-price Stan Herman for Herbcraft line, a group of robes and at-home wear in a heavier-weight cotton chenille, called Ultimate Chenille, was getting attention. In the moderate-price Herbcraft line, the company was spotlighting a group of stonewashed denims and a group of plaid-trim flannels.
Jeanette Cantoni, vice president of marketing and licensing at Natori Co., said she was suprised retailers weren't making price an issue "as long as the value is there."
Taking center stage at Natori were two programs for Mother's Day into transitional selling -- a soft, feminine-looking sleepwear group by Natori, and a group of special value sleepwear by Eve Stillman.Mel Knigin, president of the Cinema Etoile division at Movie Star, said, "Daywear selling has been very good this week, especially suit camisoles of polyester charmeuse, cottons and stretch laces."
Knigin said that in 1993 a 108 percent sales gain was posted over the prior year in the suit camisole classification. Similar gains are expected this year, he said, noting that reorders are strong this week.
Howard Radziminsky, Cinema Etoile's vice president of sales, singled out two sleepwear hits: short and ballet-length slip gowns with Venice lace trim and sheer polyester chiffon baby-dolls with puckered lace bodices.
Polly Berg, owner of Polly Berg Inc., Edina, Minn., said she was attracted to the special incentive programs offered by several robe and loungewear firms for transitional and fall selling.
She said she will order loungewear that features ethnic prints from three brand names: David Brown, Kathleen Usherwood for Periphery, and the licensed Michael Kors At-Home Wear line at Boutique Industries. Loungewear items of crinkle acetate by Ruth Norman also will be ordered, she said.
Shopping the Intimate Apparel Salon trade show at the Doral Tuscany Hotel, Deborah Carr, owner of Cage, a two-unit apparel and lingerie store in Virginia Beach, Va., said she plans to order at-home wear items in woven cottons and natural colors from Lucine Almas.
"My open-to-buy is up 20 percent over last year," she said, noting that the bulk of innerwear orders will focus on innerwear-outerwear looks.
Cathy Michaels, an owner of Katherine's Lingerie, Boonton, N.J., said she will order items from several vendors at the salon show -- loungewear by Under Construction; foundations and daywear by On Gossamer; daywear by Calida, and sleepwear by Romantic Night. Post-mastectomy foundations by Camp International and post-mastectomy sleepwear by Melinda Gros also are on the shopping list, she said.
“What he has done at Vuitton is really exceptional,” said @gameofthrones’ actress Gwendoline Christie on @mrkimjones’ final show for @louisvuitton. “He has rebooted luxury in terms of making it commercial, viable and contemporary. And most importantly artistic. He has never compromised his artistic vision for the sake of commodity.” (📷: @zefashioninsider)
After seeing a demand for men’s wear from its customers, British contemporary women’s wear label @ariesarise has added a men’s wear component and will launch a unisex collection with @mrporterlive. The 20-piece collection includes jackets, denim, logo T-shirts and more with deconstructed ‘90s vibes. Set to launch on January 18, you can shop the pieces on Aries’ website and on mrporter.com. #wwdfashion
“And so spending so much time with a character who thinks like that, inevitability you try and analyze yourself and go back and think about your own demons and dark chapters that you had in your life,” says @thedanielbruhl of his role in TNT’s “The Alienist.” The show, set in the Gilded Age of New York, also stars Dakota Fanning and Luke Evans. Head to WWD.com to read about how 39-year-old Brühl prepared for the role and why he thinks the show is so relevant to today #wwdeye ( 📷: @Eriktanner)
Now that Celine Dion’s collection has topped $10 million in sales, the pop superstar, fashion icon and newly-minted industry player is eyeing growth in Asia. Read the full report by @tiffanyap, link in bio. #wwdnews #celinedion
“My personal philosophy to beauty is paying attention to oneself. I love to be outdoors, lots of fresh air, trying to take care of yourself as best you can. I always notice that comes through,” says Felicity Jones, the global face of @shiseido-owned @cledepeaubeauteus, which launches today. Head to WWD.com to read more about the actress’ love for beauty and how she prepared for her new role in “The Basis of Sex,” playing the young Ruth Bader Ginsburg. #wwdbeauty (📷: @dandoperalski)
Among the familiar faces at @off____white’s show was a surprise figure: Japanese artist @takashipom, pictured here on Wednesday morning. Other show-goers included @jerrylorenzo, who spoke about his upcoming project: a @nike collaboration for back to school, with designs inspired by his childhood on the West Coast. Sitting in the front row were Future, Don Crawley, @miguel and more. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: Stephane Feugere)
According to @laurentsai, former “Terrace House: Aloha State” cast member, she didn’t know she was auditioning for the Japanese version of “Real World.” “I was telling a couple of my friends and someone’s like, ‘That sounds a lot like Terrace House.’ I was like, ’No it can’t be.’” Turns out, it was. But Tsai isn’t just a reality star — she’s an illustrator who has worked with Starbucks Japan and most recently, she’s dipping her toes into the fashion world. Head to WWD.com to read about her time on the show, modeling and her art. #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)
More changes are coming to New York Fashion Week: Beginning with the spring 2019 collection, @alexanderwangny will move his New York show to June from September, adopting a biannual schedule with collections shown in June and December. Additionally, the @cfda is planning for an official summer/winter fashion season taking place as soon as June and December 2018. Read more about the upcoming changes on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @slovekinpics)