How many opportunities for deals are left in the contemporary space?
With Parker off the market now that it’s been sold to Kellwood and backed by private equity firm Sun Capital Partners, there’s not a whole lot of good, quality contemporary firms left, according to The Sage Group’s Janki Lalani Gandhi, whose firm represented Parker in the transaction.
Private equity firms have been saying for the better part of a year that there aren’t many good brands available for sale. While the overall mergers and acquisitions landscape is still fairly healthy — there’s activity in accessories, specialty retail, footwear and beauty — there’s a paucity of opportunities in the contemporary space. RELATED STORY: Kellwood Buys Parker Brand >>
“The more sizable, well-known brands were sold in the last few years, leaving fewer opportunities right now to actually invest in and acquire contemporary brands,” Lalani Gandhi said. The smaller brands that are in the category still need to grow further to establish themselves as brands before they can attract considerable investment activity, she explained.
That explains the interest in international brands, such as The Kooples and Zadig & Voltaire, as observers watch how they’re growing and what those trajectories are like.
With the reduction in activity for deals in contemporary, that also explains the growing interest in emerging brands — many of which are still early-stage start-ups that have generated media interest sometimes due to participation in incubator programs. Many also get early attention from venture capitalists, who are looking for investment opportunities.
“It used to be that brands can start out with a few hundred thousand from friends and family or other angel investors, but social and digital media is playing a bigger role and that now requires more capital from the get-go for the marketing and advertising spend. It’s become a more competitive landscape and many young companies are now starting out by bringing in a partner from the beginning,” the banker said.
Another factor impacting the M&A market has to do with fund-raising activity. As private equity firms have the ability to raise more money and therefore have larger fund sizes, they also end up needing to put more money to work. “That means bigger deals so they can’t do the smaller deals that they used to do,” she said.
According to the banker, that means we may see more examples of what Berkshire Partners did in joining forces with Glen Senk to form Front Row Partners — offshoot vehicles aimed at doing smaller deals.
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)
@heriethpaul and @gracebol have a moment on the @victoriassecret fashion show 2017. See every look from the runway on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo) #wwdfashion #victoriassecret #VSFashionShow
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia