Improving consumer confidence will trump the effects of lingering employment woes and the uncertain risks of the “fiscal cliff” and propel retailers to a 4.1 percent increase in holiday sales.
That’s the initial forecast for the season from the National Retail Federation, to be released today by the Washington, D.C.-based trade association. The projection is higher than NRF’s final forecast for a 3.8 percent gain in 2011 holiday sales, a figure which proved overly conservative when sales for the season grew 5.6 percent to $563.02 billion. NRF last year initially projected a 2.8 percent sales increase but in December elevated the number a full point based on the strength of Black Friday weekend and other results early in the season. Sales for holiday 2010 hit $533.39 billion, 5.5 percent over the prior-year period.
“This is the highest pre-holiday number we’ve issued since the recession,” Matthew Shay, president and chief executive officer of NRF, told WWD, “but it’s not as big as last year’s actual number. And we can safely say that if the [Obama] administration and Congress were showing the kind of leadership they should be in addressing the fiscal concerns that are causing consumers to hold back, the number could be quite a bit higher. The biggest distraction is the election, but the biggest risk is the threat of the ‘fiscal cliff’ if it’s not addressed in an adult manner.”
Jack Kleinhenz, chief economist at NRF, said, “There’s still some general anxiety amongst consumers when it comes to how the state of the economy is impacting their spending plans, but retailers can expect to see excitement around their promotions and plenty of bargain hunters both online and in stores in the coming months.”
NRF also projected, through its Shop.org digital division, that online sales would grow 12 percent over the holiday 2011 level this year, reaching between $92 billion and $96 billion. That estimate, the first ever made by NRF about online sales, is incorporated into the overall NRF forecast. It compares with 15 percent growth in online sales in 2011, according to Commerce Department data.
According to NRF, retailers are expected to hire between 585,000 and 625,000 seasonal workers this holiday season, which is comparable to the 607,000 seasonal employees they hired last year. On Monday, Macy’s Inc. said its holiday hiring would rise about 2.5 percent this year to about 80,000 from about 78,000 last year. Previously, Wal-Mart Stores Inc., Target Corp. and Kohl’s Corp. had said they would take on more seasonal workers than they did a year ago.
In the equity markets Monday, signs of strengthening in the U.S. manufacturing sector — including those among apparel and textile producers — helped lift stocks on both sides of the Atlantic.
The Dow Jones Industrial Average rose 0.6 percent, or 77.98 points, to 13,515.11 while the S&P 500 Retailing Industry Group advanced 0.2 percent, or 1.21 points, to 656.67. Major gains were registered by Coldwater Creek Inc., up 17.5 percent to 98 cents following an upgrade to “overweight” from “neutral” by Piper Jaffray, and The Bon-Ton Stores Inc., up 8.8 percent to $10.34 but well below the 52-week high of $14.99 reached on Sept. 12.
U.S. manufacturing activity expanded for the first time in four months in September, according to the Institute of Supply Management. The group’s Purchasing Managers’ Index, or PMI, rose to 51.5 for last month, up from 49.6 in August. A reading over 50 percent indicates growth in manufacturing. Of 11 production sectors seeing growth, textile mills were the strongest and makers of apparel, leather and allied products rated fifth.
Backlogs, however, were down in September and employment in the sector fell, ISM said. And apparel producers said their customers’ inventories were too high.
European stocks rose more vigorously than their U.S. counterparts, with the FTSE MIB in Milan as the strongest market, gaining 2.8 percent to 15,523.10, followed by the CAC 40 in Paris, which climbed 2.4 percent to 3,434.98. The DAX in Frankfurt expanded 1.5 percent to 7,326.73 and the FTSE 100 in London gained 1.4 percent to 5,820.45.
In yet another fashion show shuffle, @elleryland is moving its show in sync with the Paris couture calendar — though the brand is still keeping one foot on the city’s ready-to-wear schedule. Their runway show in January will coincide with the launch of a new strategy: designing two main collections each year instead of four, which will then be released in four drops. “As we all know, the system needs to change. We need to show sooner to give time back to artisans and designers to do what they do best — create,” said founder Kym Ellery. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@maxmara’s classic 101801 coat was the cornerstone of its pre-fall 2018 collection. The design team expanded the traditional double-breasted, kimono-sleeved style into a trapeze coat, lean belted styles and a peacoat and presented them in monochromatic looks – like the camel one pictured here. #wwdfashion #prefall18 (📷: George Chinsee)
The @cfda has shifted the dates of #NYFW, with Men’s showing on February 5 through February 7, and Women’s will directly follow, running from February 8 through 14. The preliminary schedule will be released on the CFDA’s web site in the next few days, but Mark Beckham, VP of marketing for the CFDA, revealed that @rafsimons will be back to close the men’s-specific part of the week with a show on February 7 #wwdfashion (📷: Kelly Taub)
@ferragamo is introducing a new space dedicated to the development of women’s and men’s leather good samples. The laboratory, which is created eco-friendly materials and designed to reduce the environmental impact of the manufacturing processes, will allow the company to expand its accessories offering through traditional artisanal approaches. #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
How does a “regular, degular, schmegular” girl from the Bronx, N.Y., become a Grammy-nominated artist with a certified platinum record in less than a year? Call it the @iamcardib come up. The 25-year-old has become a musical sensation, and the fashion world is taking note. “If I could describe her style I would say drama. She’s really into the dramatics,” says Cardi B’s stylist @kollincarter. See how Carter styles her bold and out there looks with the link in bio. #wwdfashion
“There is no formula. There is no guideline. I can watch Ted Talks all day, but there is no one who can advise me on exactly what it is I should be doing,” said @ronniefieg, CEO of @kith, in an interview with WWD’s @ariahughes at the brand’s new SoHo office in Manhattan. Head to WWD.com to see how Fieg went from hanging out in shoe stockrooms at 13 to building his own business. #wwdfashion (📷: @weston.wells)
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion