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Prada Power as IPO Looms

A 450-page filing released via the Hong Kong Stock Exchange ushers in a new era of full disclosure for the Italian house.

Call them the $25 million couple.

Miuccia Prada earned 9.7 million euros, or $12.7 million, and her husband and Prada chief executive Patrizio Bertelli pocketed 10 million euros, or $13.1 million, for their work last year, making them two of the highest paid people in fashion.

Those are just two of the details in a 450-page filing that was released Friday via the Hong Kong Stock Exchange Web site. The exhaustive document ushers in a new era of full disclosure for the privately held Italian house, which is finally carrying out its long-awaited IPO this month. The road show kicks off Monday in Singapore, followed by Hong Kong, London, Milan and then New York.

As reported, Prada is expected to sell 16.5 percent of its share capital in an IPO that could value the entire group at 10.7 billion euros, or $15 billion.

The proceeds from the stock market listing will help Prada embark on an aggressive store opening program, with a clear focus on Asia. In the document, Prada said it plans to open about 80 directly operated stores this year, of which 25 will be in Asia. Currently the company has 319 boutiques worldwide, plus 33 franchised stores.

A Prada spokesman declined to comment on the filing.

While Miuccia Prada and Bertelli’s earnings are around the 10 million euro mark, for comparison’s sake, LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton chairman and chief executive Bernard Arnault earned a compensation package worth about 4 million euros, or $5.2 million, in 2010. PPR chief Francois-Henri Pinault earned 2.83 million euros, $3.7 million, for the same year. Currency conversions were made at average exchange rates for the year.

The document states that Bertelli and Miuccia Prada each own 33.2 percent stakes in Prada SpA through various holding companies. Miuccia Prada’s siblings Alberto Prada Bianchi and Marina Prada Bianchi each control 14.2 percent of the company. Intesa San Paolo owns 5.1 percent.

The filing also sheds light on Miuccia Prada and Bertelli’s contracts. It states that Miuccia Prada’s current five-year “consultancy agreement” runs through January of next year and that there is a cap on her future remuneration. Her salary will not exceed 9 million euros for the current fiscal year ending next January and 10 million euros for the following two years.

Similarly, Bertelli’s contract in the form of a “consultancy agreement” runs over the same time frame. He earned 6 million euros, or $7.9 million, plus a 4 million euro, or $5.2 million, bonus for the year ending Jan. 31, 2011. His salary has been capped at 9 million euros for the current year and at 10 million euros for the subsequent two years.

In the document, the company said its goals beyond opening more stores include bolstering its global coverage, “capture the high growth potential of Miu Miu,” and improve margins and profits.

Much like an IPO prospectus, the document outlined a series of “risk factors” for the business. These include the overall health of the global economy; the emergence of fast-fashion brands and their impact on the speeding up of the fashion development cycle; exposure to exchange rate fluctuations; the proliferation of counterfeit products; the seasonality of its business, and the earthquake and tsunami in Japan this past March, which will impact the group’s operations in that country.

The risk factors section also highlights the importance of Miuccia Prada, age 63, and Bertelli, 65, to the business. “Should either Ms. Miuccia Prada or Mr. Patrizio Bertelli reduce or cease her or his involvement with us, this could have an adverse effect on our business and results of operations,” the document said.

In the document, Prada said it expects its consolidated profit for the six months ended July 31 to come in at about 150.7 million euros, or $217.6 million at current exchange.

Prada reiterated its full-year results for the year ended Jan. 31. Net income more than doubled to 253.6 million euros, or $336 million, and sales rose 31.1 percent to 2.05 billion euros, or $2.75 billion. It also disclosed Friday that like-for-like sales increased by about 22 percent.

About 71 percent of the business comes via the retail channel, while wholesale sales generate close to 30 percent. The Prada brand has the most stores, with 207, followed by Miu Miu with 71. Prada said it had about 1,400 wholesale clients as of Jan. 31, 2011, the same as the year before but down from 1,800 in 2009. Europe accounts for about 42 percent of revenues; North America, 14.6 percent; Asia Pacific, 32 percent, and Japan, 11 percent.

Leather goods are the largest revenue generator, accounting for 50 percent of turnover. Ready-to-wear makes up 24 percent and footwear about 25 percent.

There is a breakdown by brand for the year ended last January. Prada generated the bulk of the revenue with 1.61 billion euros, or $2.1 billion. Miu Miu registered sales of 354.5 million euros, or $475 million. Church’s generated 53.1 million euros, $71.1 million, and Car Shoe generated 17.9 million euros, or $23.9 million. All the brands are profitable from an EBITDA standpoint except Car Shoe, which registered a loss for the past two years.

The filing revealed the company spent 85.1 million euros, or $114 million, on advertising and promotion purposes for the last fiscal year, equivalent to 4.2 percent of revenue.

Prada said its e-commerce retail channel generated about 1.9 million euros, or $2.5 million, in its last fiscal year. Prada.com operates in Europe, the United States and Japan and plans to launch in China soon. The group owns 11 factories, 10 of which are in Italy and one in the U.K. producing Church’s footwear. The factories make the majority of the prototypes, samples and “a portion” of the finished products, while the company outsources the rest of production.

Elsewhere in the document, Prada detailed its backing for the nonprofit Prada Foundation founded by Miuccia Prada and Bertelli. The company contributed about 2.4 million euros in 2009 and 2010 and about 1.8 million euros last year. It expects to contribute about 2.7 million euros, or $3.9 million, this year.