Call it the Great Retail Rationalization of the Great Recession.
And even though the economy already has forced retailers to take a scalpel — or a meat cleaver — to their store portfolios, there’s still plenty of excess to cut.
“You need stores that at the end of the day are going to contribute a positive cash flow to the portfolio,” said Esteban Bowles, principal in A.T. Kearney’s retail and consumer products practice. “Many [retailers] are not sophisticated enough in their understanding of true profitability of a store from a cash-flow standpoint.”
There is currently 46.6 square feet of retail space for every man, woman and child in the country, an increase of 14.2 percent since 1990, according to CoStar Group.
A few retailers are continuing to grow. Buckle Inc. plans to open 21 stores this year and Kohl’s Corp. is cutting the ribbon on 37 new outposts this fall. But that expansion largely comes at the expense of fallen nameplates or with the help of landlords who want to keep their malls filled. Most of the new Kohl’s doors, for instance, will be in sites formerly occupied by the now-defunct Mervyns.
It should come as no surprise that supply is outstripping demand. The “overstoring” of America has been a steady theme in fashion for years, one that was largely ignored as both consumer spending and retailers expanded in the days of easy credit. The U.S. added 25,583 shopping malls in the last 19 years, according to CoStar, even as the online business took off, ringing up sales of $132 billion last year.
But the days of unfettered expansion are over. Per capita retail space is down slightly from a year ago, the first decline since 2000. And the pullback is expected to continue. As of April, retailers were on track to close 4,600 doors this year, according to a report from the International Council of Shopping Centers. That’s on top of 6,913 closures last year.
“We’ve got stores that are not making enough money and we’re working hard with our landlords to make sure that it makes sense for us to keep operating them,” said Jim Fogarty, president and chief executive officer of Charming Shoppes Inc., on a conference call in May. The company closed 162 stores and opened 29 over the last four quarters, and is continuing to evaluate its portfolio.
Charming Shoppes’ process includes looking at less profitable or unprofitable stores and trying to get enough of a rent reduction to make the store cash-flow positive. If they can’t, the door could be closed.
Others are undertaking a similar analysis.
UBS Securities predicts a 10 percent contraction in the space devoted to specialty stores over the next several years, with the elimination of newer nameplates, the shuttering of weaker doors, an emphasis on smaller stores and the closure of shopping malls all contributing to the contraction.
Among the recent cuts laid out: Jones Apparel Group Inc. said it would shut 225 units, AnnTaylor Stores Corp. plans 163 closures, Abercrombie & Fitch Co. axed its 29-door Ruehl concept and Pacific Sunwear of California Inc. shuttered its D.e.m.o. and smaller One Thousand Steps divisions.
This comes on top of the liquidations of Mervyns, Gottschalks, Steve & Barry’s, S&K Famous Brands and others.
All told, 8.1 million square feet of retail space was vacated in the second quarter, according to real estate research firm Reis Inc.
The national vacancy rate rose to 10 percent for the quarter, up from 8.1 percent a year earlier, as Birmingham, Ala.; Dayton, Ohio, and Tulsa, Okla., registered vacancy rates of more than 15 percent. There are some relative pockets of strength, with San Francisco and Fairfield County, Conn., sporting vacancy rates below 5 percent.
The calculus of closing stores has become more complicated. In the past, pruning stores meant looking at when leases were expiring and deciding which ones not to renew.
“That’s not going to cut it in this economy,” said David Bassuk, managing director in the retail practice at AlixPartners.
In honor the @CFDA’s announcement of @iamnaomicampbell receiving the Fashion Icon Award at the 2018 #CFDAAwards, which will take place on June 4, here’s a #tbt of the supermodel on @michaelkors’ runway in 1991. #wwdfashion #wwdarchive (📷: George Chinsee)
“I was making the guacamole when my scout saw me,” says model @stuckinteenage on being discovered just six months ago while working at @chipotlemexicangrill. Since then Williams has signed with @dnamodels, walked in her first show at @calvinklein and landed on the cover of @vogueitalia – a high point of any model’s career. To read @lisajlockwood’s full interview with the model on her experiences thus far, head to WWD.com – link in bio. (📷: George Chinsee)
“I love the idea of dialogue, period. It’s where I’ve always gotten my inspiration from: hearing other women speak, their journeys and their paths,” said @hereisgina, who delivered the keynote speech during @sxsw for @createcultivate in partnership with @fossil. For her two panels, Rodriguez chose female empowering, female-led and female entrepreneurs to focus on. Head to WWD.com to read more about her thoughts on Time’s Up, growing up in a family of women and why we “need a girls’ club.” #wwdeye #sxsw (📷: @jgreenery)
Leading luxury brand are shaking things up to keep up with streetwear. Case in point: the arrival of @mrkimjones as artistic director of @diorhomme. Jones, who succeeds @Kris_Van_Assche, is seen as one of the handful of designers who can actually straddle the luxury and streetwear worlds — which could lead to even more changes at established brands. What could this mean for the rest of the menswear landscape? Head to WWD.com to find out what experts predict #wwdfashion (📷: @franckmura)
“It’s like buying groceries. You’re going to buy the best mango, the best mozzarella, the best things. You have to, or others are going to take it all,” said @gabrielahearst on why she uses only the finest fabrics. Last week, Hearst received her first @cfda nomination for Womenswear Designer of the Year, and earlier this month she opened a permanent showroom in Paris. To read @jessiredale’s interview with the designer and find out why this is shaping up to be a big year for her, head to WWD.com. #wwdfashion (📷: @francoisgoize)
“It’s an interesting thing, playing a younger version of your mother. It’s an interesting concept. I adore my mom and love her in every capacity, but it was just something that had never crossed my mind,” says @anniemstarke on playing a young Joan Castleman in “The Wife.” The same role will be played by her mother Glenn Close. Read more about her growing up in the film industry as the daughter of producer John H. Starke and Close and what she has planned for the future #wwdeye (📷: @nataliamantini)
@asics is launching a new streetwear sneaker inspired by its latest ambassador, @steveaoki. The Hyper-Kenzen x Aoki, which will launch at @footlocker stores exclusively tomorrow, is a slip-on style that incorporates the brand’s proprietary Gel technology through beads integrated into the midsole for comfort and endurance. Read the full story on WWD.com.