MILAN — Boosted by retail gains globally, but penalized by the transition of the Just Cavalli license, in 2012 the Roberto Cavalli Group posted revenues of 185 million euros, or $236.8 million at average exchange, up 4 percent compared with the previous year.


Collections for Just Cavalli under a new licensing agreement with Staff International bowed in 2012, succeeding a longstanding deal with Ittierre. While still unaudited, Robert Cavalli Group’s earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation and amortization (EBITDA) are estimated at 11 percent of revenues.


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In the 12 months ended Dec. 31, direct sales revenues, which accounted for 72 percent of total sales, rose 6.8 percent. The wholly owned monobrand stores posted a 23.4 percent gain compared with the previous year, boosted by an 18.7 percent rise in sales at existing stores and by the opening of new boutiques. These included in Madrid; Pacific Place in Hong Kong; the first two boutiques in China — at the Peninsula in Beijing and at Plaza 66 in Shanghai; the repurchase of the Hong Kong IFC and Taipei Regent, which were previously franchised, as well as the opening of new shop-in-shops in Japan — at Isetan in Tokyo and Hankyu Umeda in Osaka.


The company also opened 17 franchised signature units, including two shop-in-shops, at Saks Fifth Avenue in Bal Harbour and Las Vegas; boutiques in Panama, New Delhi, Baku and Novgorod, Russia; shop-in-shops at the DLT in Saint Petersburg, and the new online Yoox store in China.


At the end of 2012 the total number of group flagship stores rose to 168, comprising 94 Roberto Cavalli banners (of which 40 are owned); 38 Just Cavalli; 27 Class Roberto Cavalli, and nine Roberto Cavalli Junior — up from 130 at the end of 2011.


The group also touted “an excellent” performance of the new Roberto Cavalli fragrance with Coty Inc., launched last year, followed by the introduction of the Just Cavalli scent, supported by an ad campaign starring Georgia May Jagger.


The company also unveiled the designer’s home collection, ranging from furniture to wallpaper, based on seven licensing agreements with leading companies in different interior sectors. The second line will be presented in April at the fairgrounds of Milan’s international design and furniture exhibition, the Salone del Mobile.


Two Cavalli Caffè were inaugurated in 2012, in Beirut and in New Delhi. A new Cavalli Club will open in Miami in the summer.