MILAN — After a five-year run, Giambattista Valli has ended its licensing agreement with Gilmar Group to sign with Mariella Burani Fashion Group.
The upcoming spring collection will be the last produced by Gilmar before the production and distribution for fall 2010 is handed over to Burani under a five-year agreement.
The Paris-based Valli was courted by Burani and views the new partnership as necessary to grow the brand. He said key points are to raise awareness of the label and to make the offering more eclectic by boosting the accessories and costume jewelry segments.
By broadening the ready-to-wear collections, Valli hopes to open new regions and shops-in-shops.
Both Valli and Andrea Burani, director of product, sales and marketing at Burani Fashion Group want to consolidate top-performing markets such as Europe and the U.S. while conquering new ones, including the Middle and Far East, Russia and India.
Sources estimate the Valli label will reach sales of 20 million euros, or $28 million at current exchange rates, next year.
Andrea Burani said the firm approached Valli because of a belief in the potential of small niche brands like the designer’s. “We consider Valli one of the most interesting luxury designers today,” Burani said. “I’m convinced that the economic and financial tsunami has weeded out many companies more orientated towards marketing, so I believe in a return of quality and substance.”
For his part, Valli said the deal will allow him to “develop the brand without compromising my artistic or financial independence, which remains at the base of my entrepreneurial vision.”
In retail, Burani expects to bump up the current number of multibrand stores to 300 from 220 in the next three years.
Valli struck out on his own in 2004 after a long design career at Emanuel Ungaro. Leaving behind Ungaro’s characterizing colors and prints, Valli’s signature line targets stylish young jet-setters and exudes an understated and timeless elegance that spotlights craftsmanship.
He also signed with fur specialist Ciwifurs SpA to make luxurious and innovative outerwear.
Valli’s clients include Queen Rania of Jordan, Charlize Theron, Mischa Barton, Tilda Swinton, Penélope Cruz, Samantha Boardman and Alba Clemente.
Regarding Gilmar, Valli said he “shall not forget who was the first to believe in my work, marrying my project and supporting my challenge.”
@margotrobbie steps out onto the red carpet wearing @miumiu. The actress is nominated for “Outstanding Performance by a Female Actor in a Leading Role” in “I, Tonya” at the #SagAwards. (📷: Stewart Cook) #wwdfashion
For @massimogiorgetti of @msgm, the Nineties are his favorite decade. “They had a huge impact on my personal growth. What I like of the Nineties is that they are not so precise in terms of style as other decades…there was actually a bit of everything,” he said. As seen on MSGM’s Spring 2018 show: tie-dye and a bit of grunge, two styles that are synonymous with the decade #wwdfashion #wwddecades (📷: @kukukuba)
Breaking News: @hedislimane joins @celine as its new artistic, creative and image director. One of fashion’s preeminent image-makers and trendsetters, Slimane is to join the LVMH brand on Feb. 1 and unveil his first fashion proposition for men and women next September during Paris Fashion Week. It marks a major homecoming for Slimane, who cemented his reputation – and influenced men’s tailoring for more than a decade – as the designer of Dior Homme between 2000 and 2007. He went on to reinvent and ignite the house of Yves Saint Laurent, which he rechristened Saint Laurent, between 2012 and 2016 – all the while maintaining a close relationship with the Arnault family, which controls LVMH and Dior. Read the full exclusive story on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
“Personally I believe the Eighties have been the richest and more vivacious period for international fashion,” Giorgio Armani said when asked what his favorite decade of fashion is. It was a moment of disruption and experimentation and only thinking back to the first years of that decade is always an emotion for me, for what they have meant to me and my work.” The influence is clear in @giorgioarmani spring 2018 collection, pictured here, which was full of bright colors and unexpected prints. Read more about which decades designers loved most on WWD.com #wwdfashion #wwddecades (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
For Lady Gaga’s only Italian show on her “Joanne World Tour,” the singer wore a range of @versace_official outfits. The standout piece: this custom-made bodysuit inspired by the brand’s spring 2018 collection. #wwdfashion (RG: @ladygaga)
@_camillaruth_ is expanding on the wellness-craze concept with @westbourne – a new NYC restaurant that’s both a healthy-minded café as well as a business that gives back to the community. Marcus works with the Robin Hood foundation to give back to The Door, a non-profit providing youth development services, and also hires employees through The Door. Read our full interview with Marcus on giving back through food on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)