It’s a new day for Giorgio Armani in feminine beauty.
At least that is the vision of Veronique Gautier, worldwide president of the Giorgio Armani Parfums division of L’Oréal, who wants to “reinvent [it] in terms of luxury status.” In the past, Armani’s women’s fragrances didn’t match the sales power of the designer’s market-leading men’s brands. But that began to change in 2010 with the launch of the women’s scent Acqua di Gioia, which ranked number 14 globally last year, according to Gautier.
Now comes Sì, a feminine scent bolstered by the advertising featuring Cate Blanchett. As it rolled out through Europe in September, the new brand made “a tremendous entrance” in every market last fall, then in February made its debut in China, Armani’s fastest-growing market. With the exception of the U.S., where the fragrance had not yet been launched, “Sì was the best feminine launch worldwide in 2013,” Gautier declared. While the company does not break out sales projections, industry sources indicate that L’Oréal is targeting a top-10 ranking in the U.S. and around the world. That would amount to retail sales of $25 million in the first year for the U.S. alone. Industry sources also calculate the ad budget for the U.S. at roughly $20 million. RELATED STORY: Cate Blanchett on Acting and Armani >>
Gautier attributed the improvement in sales performance to a strengthening of consistency of execution matching the image of the Armani brand. “It is sophisticated; it’s smart luxury and modern luxury,” she said. “Cate is timeless and modern.” Along with Sì, there are two other legs to Gautier’s strategy for building the feminine side of Armani’s beauty business. One is the color cosmetics and makeup collection, which achieved more than a 20 percent sales increase last year. The third axis is a skin-care launch expected next year. “We want to be the most luxurious makeup-artist brand,” Gautier said, pointing to the backstage influence of Linda Cantello, who collaborates with Armani on product creation.
Four years ago, the brand’s strength was limited to its top two men’s fragrances, but now the women’s side is flowering. Gautier asserted, “Giorgio Armani wants to show that he’s a global beauty actor.”
In yet another fashion show shuffle, @elleryland is moving its show in sync with the Paris couture calendar — though the brand is still keeping one foot on the city’s ready-to-wear schedule. Their runway show in January will coincide with the launch of a new strategy: designing two main collections each year instead of four, which will then be released in four drops. “As we all know, the system needs to change. We need to show sooner to give time back to artisans and designers to do what they do best — create,” said founder Kym Ellery. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@maxmara’s classic 101801 coat was the cornerstone of its pre-fall 2018 collection. The design team expanded the traditional double-breasted, kimono-sleeved style into a trapeze coat, lean belted styles and a peacoat and presented them in monochromatic looks – like the camel one pictured here. #wwdfashion #prefall18 (📷: George Chinsee)
The @cfda has shifted the dates of #NYFW, with Men’s showing on February 5 through February 7, and Women’s will directly follow, running from February 8 through 14. The preliminary schedule will be released on the CFDA’s web site in the next few days, but Mark Beckham, VP of marketing for the CFDA, revealed that @rafsimons will be back to close the men’s-specific part of the week with a show on February 7 #wwdfashion (📷: Kelly Taub)
@ferragamo is introducing a new space dedicated to the development of women’s and men’s leather good samples. The laboratory, which is created eco-friendly materials and designed to reduce the environmental impact of the manufacturing processes, will allow the company to expand its accessories offering through traditional artisanal approaches. #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
How does a “regular, degular, schmegular” girl from the Bronx, N.Y., become a Grammy-nominated artist with a certified platinum record in less than a year? Call it the @iamcardib come up. The 25-year-old has become a musical sensation, and the fashion world is taking note. “If I could describe her style I would say drama. She’s really into the dramatics,” says Cardi B’s stylist @kollincarter. See how Carter styles her bold and out there looks with the link in bio. #wwdfashion
“There is no formula. There is no guideline. I can watch Ted Talks all day, but there is no one who can advise me on exactly what it is I should be doing,” said @ronniefieg, CEO of @kith, in an interview with WWD’s @ariahughes at the brand’s new SoHo office in Manhattan. Head to WWD.com to see how Fieg went from hanging out in shoe stockrooms at 13 to building his own business. #wwdfashion (📷: @weston.wells)
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion