PARIS — 'Tis the season to be jolly for Europe's beauty retailers.
"We expect to end the year on a very positive note, with double-digit growth again on last year," said Catherine Bossom, buyer for perfumery and cosmetics at the U.K.'s Harrods department store, echoing many of the 14 beauty retailers representing 1,757 doors in France, the U.K., Ireland, Italy and Germany who were polled by WWD in the run-up to the holidays.
Executives who disclosed sales estimates said they expect to close 2007 with high-single- to low-double-digit gains despite transit strikes, storms and price reductions that have plagued European countries.
The current reports are all the cheerier, considering that these numbers are bucking a tough comparison with last year's holiday, when there was a moderate uptick from a decidedly soft Christmas 2005.
As in years past, fragrance rules the season. Among the scents launched in Europe this fall, retailers said standout performers include designer fragrances for women such as Emporio Armani Diamonds, Parfums Christian Dior's Midnight Poison, Gucci by Gucci, Prada's Infusion d'Iris, Daisy by Marc Jacobs, Hermès' Kelly Caleche, Paul Smith Rose, Yves Saint Laurent Parfums' Elle and Paco Rabanne's Black XS for Her.
Among the newbies for guys are Tom Ford for Men, Jil Sander Men, Narciso Rodriguez for Him and R.S.V.P. by Kenneth Cole. Other notables include the masterbrand Diesel Fuel for Life; niche scents, including Tom Ford's Private Blend, plus Christina Aguilera's celebrity fragrance, retailers said.
Of course, classics still take the gold. But there was a notable uptick in skin care sales this season, while business from pre-packaged gift sets — a perennial favorite — were down at some retailers, surprisingly.
"We can always be sure that the classics, such as Chanel No.5, will see an increase in sales in the last few months of the year," said Jeremy Seigal, managing director of The Perfume Shop, with 162 doors in the U.K. and Ireland.
Chanel No.5 topped the charts in Germany's Wir für Sie cooperative of 340 private perfumeries in September, October and November. It also came in first at Boots the Chemists in the last week of November, closely followed by the brand's Coco Mademoiselle scent.
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye
"Nowadays when life is not so happy with everything going on in the world, I think people come to me for a little bit of whimsy and color and fun." - Designer Rebecca De Ravenel on her cult-favorite jewelry line. (📸 : @vsteves) #wwd40
“Everyone is talking about how the retail industry is struggling, but I think it’s an incredible time because brands who are doing something different and innovative are setting themselves up for the future,” said @adamgoldston, who founded the luxury athletic brand @apl with his brother @ryangoldsten. The Goldston’s are part of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables. See the rest of the list on WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
@eyeswoon blogger Athena Calderone debuted her first-ever cookbook, “Cook Beautiful,” which is heavily centered on the presentation and visual expression of food. Pictured here are her miso glazed carrots from the book. Get the recipe on WWD.com. (📷: @johnny_miller_) #wwdeye
“It’s passion that helps get anybody to a certain point and it’s what’s propelled me,” said Kith founder @ronniefieg, one of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables who are changing the face of retail, fashion and beauty. Fieg, who opened a Manhattan flagship on October 7, began his career at age 13 as a stock boy and salesman for footwear chain David Z. “I think staying true to [my] beliefs, hard work and passion have gotten me to where [Kith] is today.” See the rest of the 40 at WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
25-year-old @samweaving is about to break out this fall, starring in Netflix’s horror film “The Babysitter,” fittingly out today on Friday the 13th. That’s not the only place you’ll be seeing her, though — Weaving’s got a role Showtime’s “SMILF” and another alongside Frances McDormand and Woody Harrelson in “Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri.” Though she’s got a full plate at the moment, there’s one role she’s got her eye on: Marilyn Monroe. “I’m a little too young at the moment, but it’s on my bucket list,” the actress told WWD (📷: @dandoperalski) #wwdeye
BFF's Poppy Jamie and Suki Waterhouse celebrated the launch of their bag line Pop x Suki at Nordstrom last night. "The line is really about our friendship, and how we are so different but complement each other," said Waterhouse. 👯 (📷: Katie Jones) #wwdeye
After designing the new @louisvuitton and @bulgariofficial flagships and a @chanelofficial boutique opening in Japan, @petermarinoarchitect has another project on his plate: The Lobster Club. Located in the Seagram Building, it’s the famed architect’s first restaurant project in New York, serving up modern Japanese brasserie-style cuisine. Bronze hues, bespoke material detailing, blush and chartreuse tones and a heavy emphasis on Picasso can be seen throughout. Mark your calendars for Nov. 1 for the much-anticipated opening. (📷: @clint_spaulding) #wwdeye
Did you know: @carlychaikin of "Mr. Robot" has been painting for about a decade? The actress, who plays Darlene on the show, is a self-taught artist who lists Salvador Dalí and Chuck Close as some of her idols. Chaikin told WWD that painting is a form of meditation for her — A much-needed one given the intensity of "Mr. Robot." See a piece Chaikin is working on at WWD.com (📷: @jilliansollazzo) #wwdeye