CUSTOMS RULING CHALLENGED: A coalition of 97 associations and companies, including Target Corp., Neiman Marcus Group, Macy's Inc., Levi Strauss and J.C. Penney Co., sent a letter to Homeland Security Secretary Michael Chertoff on Monday urging him to withdraw a proposal that could force apparel companies to pay millions of dollars in additional duties on their imports. The firms said the proposal from U.S. Customs, part of the Homeland Security agency, seeks to "overturn two decades of agency practice." The Customs plan would change a provision known as the "first sale rule" that allows firms to determine the value of an imported finished product on the cost at the point of first sale in the supply chain, such as factory to wholesaler. Customs wants to peg the final value to the point of importation, generally meaning the wholesale price. The agency said it needs to bring its rules into compliance with a decision by an advisory committee of the World Trade Organization.
SAFILO BUYS TWO: Safilo Group said it has acquired two international retail chains: Sunglass Island in Mexico and Just Spectacles in Australia. Along with the Solstice chain in the U.S. and Loop Vision in Spain, Safilo now has four operative organizations globally. Sunglass Island manages 45 stores, all of which are situated in premier locations throughout Mexico. They have been operating in the market for 15 years under the direction of the Krantzberg family, who will continue to work with Safilo, a 60 percent owner of the business. Perth-based Just Spectacles has 44 stores throughout Australia. Safilo acquired 100 percent of the chain. Regarding whether or not Safilo will change any current stores to its Solstice boutiques, chief executive officer Claudio Gottardi said, "For the moment the plan is to keep them as they are. The best locations will over time be converted to Solstice stores."
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast