WASHINGTON — Labor and human rights groups working with organizations in Bangladesh and their own staffs on the ground there said they have found more labels and turned up the names of seven factories that subcontracted work to the Smart Export Garment Ltd. factory, where seven garment workers died in a fire over the weekend.
The fire, which also injured at least 15 workers, has sparked protests in Bangladesh and calls for action and change by U.S. and international labor rights groups. It follows on the heels of the Tazreen factory fire in late November that claimed the lives of more than 111 garment workers in Ashulia, Bangladesh.
The staff of the Institute for Global Labor and Human Rights in Dhaka interviewed a supervisor at Smart Export, who identified seven factories that allegedly subcontracted work to Smart Export. All seven factories are reportedly members of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association.
The factories identified by the supervisor include Mrinmoy Fashion Ltd., Concord Fashion Export, Shintex BD Ltd., Syntex Knitwear Ltd., Energy Pac Fashion Ltd., MHC Apparels Ltd. and Mac-Tex Industries.
“There are apparently a lot of these sweatshops and subcontracting factories operating in Bangladesh and receiving work from more established factories, which was the case here,” said Barbara Briggs, assistant director at the Pittsburgh-based Institute for Global Labor and Human Rights. “The question now is are the labels whose production were there going to take any responsibility?”
“Retailers know very well that the demands they place on suppliers cannot be met without subcontracting, but they turn a blind eye,” said Scott Nova, executive director of the Worker Rights Consortium. “This allows them to take advantage of the cheap costs these shady subcontract factories offer, at the expense of worker rights and worker safety, while maintaining deniability. When a disaster occurs, they claim they are shocked to discover that unauthorized subcontracting was going on.”
The Bangladesh Center for Worker Solidarity and Worker Rights Consortium said they have discovered more labels and/or apparel at Smart, including the label Okay Men, produced by Kik, a German apparel and nonfood discounter; Mim, a French retailer and women’s apparel and accessories brand, which is a subsidiary of New Look, and Max, a retail chain in the Middle East owned by Landmark Group.
A spokeswoman for Kik denied the company used Smart Export in an email early Wednesday morning.
“The accusations against us which are related to the recent and tragic events in a suburb of Dhaka are incorrect,” she said. “We have never had any business relationship with Smart Export Garment Ltd. Furthermore there is noevidence that orders were sub-contracted to Smart Export Garments Ltd. We explicitly reject contrary statements.”
However labor groups provided WWD with documents and digital images of labels said to be found in the rubble of Smart Export, including an “Okay Men” label, which is produced by Kik.
The Kik spokeswoman also said the company has held “exploratory discussions” with a coalition of labor and human rights groups pressing retailers and brands to sign a binding “Bangladesh Fire and Building Safety Agreement,” she said. The company is also considering cooperating with the International Labor Organization, BGMEA and the Buyer’s Forum, a group of large international trading companies, to address the fire safety issues in Bangladesh’s garment industry.
She added that Kik also plans reach an “appropriate agreement” and participate in the relief fund for victims of the separate Tazreen fashion fire in November.
@chanel and @pharrell dropped what’s being dubbed as the world’s most exclusive sneakers yesterday. The Adidas Originals NMD Hu, which Williams designed in collaboration with Chanel and @adidasoriginals, has a waiting list of over 120K people who pre-registered online at chanelatcolette.fr –– and only 500 pairs are on sale. The singer predicted the resale value of the shoes could reach $40K. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdfashion
@imanshumpert is diving deeper into his creative endeavors and relaunching his clothing line, Post 90s, and is helping to raise money for the hurricane victims in St. Maarten with a jersey he’s designed with his brother. The Cleveland Cavaliers player talked to WWD about kneeling during the national anthem, working with fashion brands and how he wants to be more than an @nba player. Read the interview on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
Not only does #TheProfit return to CNBC tonight, but @marcuslemonis has launched @shopmarcus, a new shopping and lifestyle retail experience in Aspen and Chicago, with more locations to come. The retail stores offer in-store stylists and a variety of contemporary womenswear selections.
“It’s life, I’m going to face it,” @mingxi11 sighed. “I fell, but you know, I think the most important thing is that I get back up. I had the love, the help from my sister — the girl next to me Gizele [Oliveira] — she’s so nice. When I went backstage everybody was trying to comfort me like ‘Oh Ming, it’s OK.’ I’m really, really touched. I think it’s them who gave me the courage to go back on stage for the finale,” Xi told WWD of her fall at the @victoriassecret fashion show. (📷: David Fisher) #wwdfashion #vsfashionshow #victoriassecret
@louisvuitton tapped @therealpeterlindbergh for its latest city-centric photo book, which is part of a series called Fashion Eye. The primarily black and white book captures the spirit of Berlin in 57 images shot between 1989 and 2019. “Berlin is an inspiration for me, more than a city. I mean @millajovovich is simply Berlin!” said Lindbergh. #wwdfashion
“You know, I think audiences expect a certain performance so I have to deliver to them what they’re expecting to a certain degree. But I’m also a different actor and a different person, I have my own spin on the character,” says @noahegalvin of his takeover of the leading role in “Dear Evan Hansen” following the departure of @bensplatt, who originated the role. Read WWD’s interview with the 23-year-old actor on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
For pre-fall 2018, @etro created richly-colored wonderland, using tapestries, textiles and wallpapers from the Eastern world at large. The line featured floral and graphic prints and jacquard motifs, like this two-piece look featured here. #wwdfashion (📷: Giovanna Pavesi)
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)